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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Axle bolts

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) p1693 Over Boost?

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Does Anyone have problems keeping the small bolts that hold the rear axles in from ripping out? What I mean is those bolts on the 2500 and the 3500 where the rear hub bolt is. I had to replace those bolts twice now and I torque them to 50 foot pounds.

Thanks
 
Remove the oil so the axle doesn't tend to turn instead of being clamped into place. I use a bit of RTV instead of a gasket. I believe the torque spec is more like 70 or 80 ft lb, but don't have a manual handy.
 
I suggest checking the wheel bearing play. If the wheel bearing nut has backed off the hub could wobble and put alot of stress on the axle bolts.



Kent
 
I had the bolts shearing off when I loosened or tightened them. I found the axle bearings were loose. The torgue on the bearing nut is 120-140 Ft-lbs. Mine were 1/2 turn loose.



I replaced all the bolts with bolts from Dodge at about $65 for 16. Some have suggested using a hardened stainless allen head bolt instead.



The bolts had some kind of reddish sealant or threadlocker on half of the threads, just like the old bolts I removed. I guess that's what keep them from getting loose. The bolts are torque to yield bolts. If re-torque doesn't hold maybe you should replace them IMHO.



I used 90 Ft-Lbs torque as was mentioned on the axle bolts and haven't had any trouble for about a year.



Here is the thread I posted about my bolts shearing:



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89581&page=2&pp=15



Hope that helps.
 
Torque the hub bearing nut 120 to 140 ft lbs then back the nut off 1/8 of a turn to provide . 001 to . 010 inch wheel bearing end play.
 
Yeah! That's what I did... torque 130 Ft-Lbs and backed off 1/8 turn per the manual. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Good catch "ata".



As I remember, it took a 2. 5 inch deep socket to adjust the bearing nut. Did a rear brake job while I was there and replaced bearings and diff fluid.
 
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