Back to my Brake Issue

[dpuckett]

CB-

was the rubber cap seal thingie down in both MC reservoirs, or just the big one in the rear? (that goes to the front brakes) IF it was in just the one section, it is most likely wear on your front shoes (pads? i get the two confused), and the claipers taking up the slack. BUT, if it was both of them, you have issues. IF your pedal holds steady, and doesnt fall, just gets hard, then I'd lean toward the booster. If it gets hard and falls, then you may as well just replace both of them and have it over with. With the MC, be sure to bench bleed it REAL well. I mean, pump it with the screw driver for 5 minutes with no air- any less than that, and you could have air in the cylinder still. #@$%!



Daniel

 

[phillips5]

Fleet Pride is where I got the one for 110 dollors. I think there are nationwide. It used to be called Toledo Clutch and Break Driveline and Gear. The price is 3 years old

 

[sparks57]

The thingies were down in both reservoirs, and it's been that way since I've owned the truck, I've never thought to push them up. I bet they've been down for years.



Pedal hold steady, just gets really stiff. I am really leaning towards the booster now.



BUT!!!! Luckily I was able to fix the swtich, being the geniouse I am... I figured out a way.



I drilled out the plastic hole, and tapped it. I then inserted a small metal tube which was also tapped. I put some silicone on the thread. VOILA!!! It works now. I saved some money... WOOHOO!!!



But I'm still thinking the booster is going south.

 

[sparks57]

But Daniel, please expand on the MC. I am concerned now as to if that needs replacement too.



This sucks, dude. All my BOMBing funds have been drained pretty dry this last week fixing all these gremlins.

 

[dpuckett]

Gremlins cost more to exterminate than the BOMB cost. All your BOMBs are being eaten be this trivial issue? I SERIOUSLY doubt that.



If your pedal stays firm, and doesnt drop at the stop light, I'd say you are ok with the master. I'm not sure about the booster- I always have plenty of pedal pushing ability- it's called legs of steel. :-laf.



What I meant with the master is 1) use the plugs that go in the ports to bench bleed it; MUCH better, faster, and more thorough than with the outlets and hoses up and back into the MC. Most new MCs come with directions. 2) Make sure you have ALL the air out of the cylinder before putting it on the truck; otherwise you'll never fix your problem. Cant think of much else, but then, I spent 12 hours bouncing across fields in a 9330 Case tractor with mud tires that werent going through mud- my brain is kind of mixed and stirred up.



PS- when you get it all figured out, flush the system, and replace with synthetic fluid. email me for details.

-DP

 

[sparks57]

Synthetic brake fluid?



I was seriously thinking about flushing the whole brake system while I'm fooling with them. I'm going to pull the front and rear brakes and take a look. My phylosophy is, when you've got something apart, fix everything you can so you don't have to take it apart again.



I'm also going to maybe to a rebuild on the front right side... since the u-joint seems to be going out.

 

[dpuckett]

Originally posted by CB_Parker

Synthetic brake fluid?

You've GOT to be kidding. Pastor, can I borrow your cane, uh, I mean, make that stick,:-laf and hit the youngun up side the head?



Seriously, though, yes, there is such a creature, and it is your firend. I flushed the old fluid out (old? it had been in there all of two months ), and put in Valvoline SynPower or whatever they call it, and it made a big difference in pedal feel; I almost have a firm pedal. Oo.



Good idea flushing the system, and checking out the rest of it. I've had good luck with Performance Friction fronts, and some [element] metallic rears. Something "cool" sounding, that had a bit more bite than regualrs. But, then I was also towing a 25K GCVW; I needed all the help I could get.



Daniel

 

[sparks57]

Hmmm... while I'm at it, maybe EGR 4 wheel conversion?

 

[bgilbert]

Going to a synthetic, make sure you get ALL of the old dot 3 fluid out of the system. Oh yeah prepare to spend alot of your bomb money on syn brake fluid= high dollar.



[The thingies were down in both reservoirs, and it's been that way since I've owned the truck, I've never thought to push them up. I bet they've been down for years. ] --> Yes push them up and fill that sucker up!!!! You can't fill the MC entirely with them popped down. Hmm. . I better not wait on that check to get here, I better just send that FSM out to ya, sounds like your gonna need it lol!! Bill

 

[sparks57]

:-laf



Looks like it!

 

[prototech]

hey Chris,

I just went through the same scenario a while back, to a tee. the original problem was a spongy vaccum line that was colapsing. I inspected it several times and thought it was OK. messed around with this problem for weeks and finally got fed up and replaced all of the vacuum lines, yes all of them! that is when problem #2 started because I broke the barb off of the vacuum sensor. It was still doing the same thing, hard pedal at a stop and lights come on, then I checked my original repair job on the sensor and found it was leaking. my second repair was successful. Pull the sensor out of the truck and remove the mounting bracket, there is a hole on the bracket which the barb connection pokes through, I had to drill this hole out to about 5/8" I used a step drill bit to do this. then take a 2" piece of 3/8" brake line and force it over the stub that is left where the barb broke off, put the mount bracket back on the sensor if you can get the hole the right size it will hold the 3/8 line onto the sensor. then take the 1/4 vacuum line and force it inside the 3/8" piece, you can also put a piece of 1/4" copper or steel tubing inside the 1/4" vacuum line to make it extra tight.

I recomend changing all of the vacuum lines before changing the booster its a whole lot cheaper! I thought my booster was bad too!

Proto

 

[sparks57]

Wow, you did exacty what I did! Right down to breaking the damn barb.



I'll check! Thanks for the advice.