Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball joint selection

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff
Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm looking for a good durable ball joint for my 3500. Some of the ones I found haven't been mentioned on this site.



Proforged have a 1,000,000 mile warranty and cost about $65. 00 a piece. My first choice at this time. :cool:



Falcon Engineering has a durable unit with no nylon insert. :)



XDF's have some good reviews on here. ;)



Carli joints are just OVERKILL unless you off road race your truck. :eek:



Moog seem average over the auto parts counter type. :confused:

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 
I have moog upper and lower on passenger side and still factory on drivers side, 191xxxk. I will put moogs on drivers side whenever they go out. Im sure the others are great, but I cant complain about moogs or the factory ones for that matter.
 
I have moog upper and lower on passenger side and still factory on drivers side, 191xxxk. I will put moogs on drivers side whenever they go out. Im sure the others are great, but I cant complain about moogs or the factory ones for that matter.



Not to hi-jack thread, but I replaced my pass side with moog as well and the driver side is still stock as well ? ? ? ? wonder why pass went out but driver side is still good to go at 195k. . . . . :confused:



I've had pretty good luck with Moog parts, quality stuff IMO
 
thats wild, two 99's with almost identical mileage having same symptoms. I know ford guys with the same thing, dont know why passenger side goes out, gotta be some logical explanation.
 
Engine torque under acceleration adds weight to the right and removes it on the left... ... maybe why??



Nick
 
I think the Moog's are only good for the 2nd gens, I know some guys who put them on 3rd gens and it wasnt a happy ending. Most the guys I know with 2nd gens seem to agree that stock replacements are the best ones FYI
 
Carli joints are just OVERKILL unless you off road race your truck. :eek:



How can a BJ be overkill on these trucks? You don't need to use your truck for "off road race" in order to run Carli BJ's. Sage and gang R&D thier products in the harshest environment for reliabity. So for $800 for the complete set you get a lifetime warranty, product that is tested for the harsh environment that an average truck owner who is mainly on the street/towing/hauling will not wear them out in 50,000 miles. They are also rebuildable on the truck without removing from the truck.



I know it seems alot of money compared to some that cost $200 a set, but you get what you pay for. Just my $. 02. I know the pocket book dictates at times when it comes to replacing items.
 
Ooops, just relized when I clicked on "all new post" that this is the 2nd Gen Section. Carli does not make 2nd Gen BJ's. So like Aaron above said, the stockers are probably the best option.
 
Another reason why, possibly, the pass side goes out before the driver side . . . most potholes and sewage drains are closest to the curb . . . not to mention the curbs . . . :eek:
 
Just found out today that Dynatrac pro steer joints won't work for the 00-02s, so I since thay wont work for those years, and they list the same years as Carli does, I don't think that Carli is even an option for these years.



I'm looking for balljoints again because the XRF's a put in went out after about three months worth of use. :{ I DO NOT recommend them on my first impression. Almost ALL highway driving too.
 
Another reason why, possibly, the pass side goes out before the driver side . . . most potholes and sewage drains are closest to the curb . . . not to mention the curbs . . . :eek:

Hit that nail on the head. Pass side usually has the worst rot (rust) too...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top