Here I am

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Battery Drain

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmission opinions

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) power steering fluid ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
My 98. 5 is not being driven as much as when fuel was less expensive... So it sits for about 5 days between trips... The battery is dead when I try to start it.

It charges ok and the batteries are good, once it is started for the day it re starts just fine. I have disconnected the grid heaters and all after market accessories... Any thoughts on which way to go with this...

Thanks

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/images/smilies/cussing.gif
 
Just out of curiosity, how old are the batteries? If you can't find a drain on them, it just could be that they've given up the fight and can no longer hold a charge for an extended period of time. I had a very similar problem happen to me just yestersday with my motorcycle battery. I had left it on a battery tender all winter, but it was 5 year old and just wouldn't hold the charge. I replaced it and all was well.
 
I know this sound like a lot of work, but if you can't find it easier, this will help. There should be one fuse that has a yellow or black clip over it. I think its labeled IOd or something like that. That fuse is for continous draining devises - clock memory and things like that. The clip is for when they get to the dealer to remind them to put it in as they are shipped removed. The bad step is to use an ampmeter on the battery and start pulling other fuses until you find your "draw". That will tell you what area has the problem and then you can look for shorts or bad switches. Sometimes crud built up in a switch can carry enough current to cause a problem. Of all the problems to work on, electrical gremlins can be the biggest pain to hunt down, IMHO.



Good luck,

Dave
 
I had a problem with my batteries draining also. Removed the ground terminals on both batteries and put an ammeter in series with the negative connection. I saw in excess of 100 ma drain which over time will discharge the batteries. I removed the fuses inside the cab one at a time noting the draw until I hit the right one. Turned out to be my seat circuit. There should be no more than about 20 ma or so when the truck and electronics are in the sleep mode. Good luck
 
I have a 99 that does the same thing. As long as I drive it every day or two, it keep the batteries up. In a week of no driving, they're dead. They are less than 6 months old and the problem pre-dates these batteries. We've been busy building a house in our spare time, so PU has been on the back burner. One thing I discovered was that I could pull the fuse in the upper left of the power distribution center marked "50A Battery" and the batteries would not draw down. Since the house and garage (heated - yipee!) are done, I have been trying to trace it down today.

First, I removed both negative cables from the batteries and hooked my amp tester up between the cable and negative post of one battery. 456 milliamps with all fuses installed, ignition off, doors closed (should be in sleep mode). Ramtuf1 said no more that 20. I pulled all of the fuses from the panel in the cab and replaced them one at a time. With the IOD circuit pulled, 6 milliamps, 456 with it in. I unhooked the seat belt and radio circuits. No change - not sure what else should be drawing in this mode or how much. ST model - not a lot of extras like power windows, seats, etc.

Another thing I did was to remove the 140A alternator fuse while I was isolating other circuits, in case it was a diode in the alt. Didn't seem to make a difference, so am assuming alternator is okay - charges 14. 5V. Don't know if this will help you, but thought I'd share, just in case.

Bud
 
Last edited:
Mine would go for about 3 days and be dead...

Turns out ONE battery went bad... they were both about a year old, so it got replaced under warranty.
 
I had this problem also it turned out to be the glove box light was staying on. When the glove box would close it was not pushing the switch all the way in.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top