Battery Temperature Sensor

[jelag]

OK, we thought of the catalytic heater and had one in our last trailer... this trailer has no location for one..... but it was a thought we had...

15. 5 was a max voltage, not to exceed. I can't remember ever personally ever setting one up that high except for a road grader I changed over from a generator to an alternator for the State of OR back in the early 70's where it was used to plow snow in the winter on a college campus and they would start and stop the thing 20 times a day. . We couldn't keep the batteries up from all the cranking... but it was heck on light bulbs...

I'm really looking for a better idea than cheating the computer but can't seem to find one other than installing the mechanical regulator... Oh yea... one of you suggested that a Smarty or other programer would reset the ECM... . have any of you tried that. .

Bob4x4 do suggested the upgrade of the ecm software... . Bob do you know what the new setting are. .

 

[K5IP]

jelag

Here is a link to a converter that will, when used with their charge wizzard, fully charge your trailer batteries. I think the have reconditioned units at a reasonable price.

I like this combination because it allows me to quickly charge my batteries even while dry camped, using my Honda eu1000 generator for the ac input.

My eu1000 will just barely run the 40A version of this charager, but it will do it.

When on shore power, the charge wizzard allows you to force the charge voltage up to 14. 4 VDC and this provides nearly a full 40A charge rate in my system. That is all my 200AH batteries should have. I measure charge and discharge current by placing a 100A/100mv shunt in the negative return line of my trailer battery so I know exactly what is going on, both current and voltage (you already have the fluke to do this).



RV Power Converter/Chargers



If you are still intent on raising the charge voltage on your

truck, I can send you a pot, about 5 to 10K should do it, but this idea is full of places to go wrong. Even so, it is probably something I would do also.

PM me

Rog

 

[Bill Stockard]

jelag

Here is a link to a converter that will, when used with their charge wizzard, fully charge your trailer batteries. I think the have reconditioned units at a reasonable price.

I like this combination because it allows me to quickly charge my batteries even while dry camped, using my Honda eu1000 generator for the ac input.

My eu1000 will just barely run the 40A version of this charager, but it will do it.

When on shore power, the charge wizzard allows you to force the charge voltage up to 14. 4 VDC and this provides nearly a full 40A charge rate in my system. That is all my 200AH batteries should have. I measure charge and discharge current by placing a 100A/100mv shunt in the negative return line of my trailer battery so I know exactly what is going on, both current and voltage (you already have the fluke to do this).



RV Power Converter/Chargers

I too think this is your best solution. I've had them in our last two RVs and they work very well keeping the battery charged. It also does a good job maintaing the battery when the RV is connected to shore power for long periods. It fully charges the battery without "boiling" the electrolyte dry like many of the cheaper old syle conveter/chargers.



Bill

 

[Newt]

Jim

IMHO your attacking the wrong end of the problem. Your truck isn't broke, don't fix it. LOL

I've been RV'ing since the 70's. IMHO your best solution is a converter like the Progressive Dynamics w/Charge Wizard and a generator. I'd opt for a larger one. We have a pair of Yamaha 2400's. One will run a 15K AC, if other AC things aren't running. Coupled, they put out 33 amps continuous. You can run 2 or 3 AC things.

Newt

 

[jelag]

OK guys... Great thoughts, great ideas...

I've got a 0-350 amp induction (clamp over the cable) amp meter AC/DC at home which I'll use when I get there... . you've all got great ideas and we have a 5KW gen set but hate to drag in along... and I've researched the converter/wizard you've mentioned... .

Since we spend several nights out in a row, either parked in a lot, Wal-mart, Costco, etc we're trying to get this done with the charging system on the truck and not drag the gen set along... we also have 1000 watt Honda but either case means fuel other than diesel and the mess...

I guess I'll just think through this some more... we're still at Bonneville Fish Hatchery and will be here for another 4 or 5 weeks... . than on to home in WA... I still need to pull the alternator and put brushes in. . and I remember either a Delco or Leece Neville that had an adjustable external electronic regulator for commercial applications...

I guess I'll do more research..... Thanks for your thoughts... There have been some great ideas...

 

[AH64ID]

Since the voltage is controlled by the ECM there is no reason the flash wouldn't work, as I mentioned I charge at the voltages you want to see.

 

[FParisi]

I would agree with the upgrade to the PD with charge wizard. Part of the problem I think you would have even then is that as the batteries get up to 80-90% the charge voltage needs to be lowered to fully charge them. Solar cells do a great job of keeping the batteries topped up.

The only other thing I can think of is to get an inverter + hook it up to the truck battery then run 120v back to the trailer plug to use the converter to charge the batteries.

 

[Road Dog]

If your goal is to charge trailer batteries while on the road then the best solution is to use a DC-AC inverter and run a smart charger of some kind connected directly to the trailer batteries. Completely uncouple the two battery sets with two charging systems. You wouldn't even need a big inverter. Put the inverter under the hood. Run an AC extension cord under the truck out to the hitch (put a connection by the hitch as a breakaway) and put the charger by the trailer batteries if possible.

 

[AH64ID]

jelag, did you ever get this figured out?

I recently upgraded my WFCO 8955 to a PD 4655 and it does a MUCH better job with the batteries, not to mention I can manually put it into any mode (float, normal, boost) with the push of the included button on the DC board (pendant is not required).

I also installed a much more accurate DC voltmeter, and this is what my trailer batteries are at with the truck at 1500 rpms and 14. 8V (cold batteries as it's 35° outside)

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[jelag]

OK - here's the update. . I've changed out the converter to one with a wizzard so that when I'm connected to shore power I leave shore power with the batteries at full charge... I'm going to install a second set of 6V batteries in the battery compartment... I've not had the truck in the ECM upgrade to charge the batteries...

I have been running the gen set at night and with the new converter have been doing better... we are expecting to spend next summer (4-5 months) in Alaska where we'll spend a lot of that time dry camping... I think I'm going to upgrade my Honda 5KW gen set that's noisy to a pair of the Honda 2000 gen sets... one will run the trailer when we don't need a lot of power and we can fire the second one when we need more...

I've not messed with the battery temp sensor yet... not until I get the ECM upgrade... My brake controller has a built in digital volt meter, it compares with my portable fluke... AH614D, where did you find that digital voltmeter for your RV... like you, on a cold day my truck will charge the batteries... but as soon as the temperature heats up to above about 60* the charging voltage fall off to 13. 6 - 13. 8 in the cab on the brake controller and with the fluke at the RV batteries its like . 6 volt lower... . and using a hydrometer... I just don't see the batteries fully charged...

I can't even begin to share how I DON"T WANT the truck in the DEALERSHIP... that's why I considered the work around with the temp sensor...

Again let me share I started this post because when we travel days on end... and we need the heater at night we run into capacity problems with our current set up... the suggestion to run an inverter and a small charger is something I've thought about... I just want something that I can set and forget...

Thanks for the thoughts... .

 

[goodguys75]

OK guys...



When I was young I was trained to reset the voltage regulator to take care of special needs... I understand generator/regulator, alternator/regulator and starting circuits and can still draw them from heart...



When the truck is cold 35* the charging voltage is about 14. 4 and when the temperature rises to 80* that voltage drops to about 13. 9



Way back when, charging voltage was 14. 2-15. 5 on most cars and trucks...



I currently tow a 30 ft 5er and above average needs at night when we stop for the evening... I've ran 8 gauge wire from the battery, to the plug, to the trailer and back through the ground circuit... I still have 1/2 to 5/8 volt drop from the front batteries to the trailer batteries... I've rechecked the circuit and feel I can't do much better...



If you look at the chart to check the batteries with digital meter (fluke) when the batteries are at rest, mine are only about 70% charged. . If I had space I'd just install another battery...



The converter on the trailer holds the voltage at 12. 8-13. 2 when connected to shore power so when we unplug the trailers and pull away we're still not fully charged. .



In the old days, I'd just open the cover of the regulator and adjust it... I've thought about pulling the alternator and actually changing the field circuit and install a old fashioned regulator... heck if the charging voltage stayed at 14. 4 all day and didn't fall off with the heat. . I'm sure I'd be happy but once the engine heat soaks the engine compartment charging voltage drops to the 13. 9 figure... just not enough. .



I'd like to get this to the point where after 2 or 3 days of being on the road I can keep my better half happy with fully charged batteries and a warm RV at night. .



If you think I'm missing something here. . please share...



BTW I've checked each cell with a cell voltage test... all are within a . 1 volt, well within the standard... a cell voltage test is a better test than a hydrometer test... more accurate... and this cell test verifies I'm not fully charged... I'd rather add distilled water to the truck batteries every few months and have a happy wife... .

if you are doing it for the R. V, put on a battery tender with solar panels... then your batteries will always be fully charged, and you don't depend on the vehicle to charge.....

 

[AH64ID]

OK - here's the update. . I've changed out the converter to one with a wizzard so that when I'm connected to shore power I leave shore power with the batteries at full charge... I'm going to install a second set of 6V batteries in the battery compartment... I've not had the truck in the ECM upgrade to charge the batteries...

It's amazing what a nice converter will do!

I have been running the gen set at night and with the new converter have been doing better... we are expecting to spend next summer (4-5 months) in Alaska where we'll spend a lot of that time dry camping... I think I'm going to upgrade my Honda 5KW gen set that's noisy to a pair of the Honda 2000 gen sets... one will run the trailer when we don't need a lot of power and we can fire the second one when we need more...

We have a pair of EU2000i's, and it's pretty slick. Like you said 1 when you don't need the added power (mainly a/c) and two when you do. They are lighter, easier to move, more powerful and the same price as a EU3000.

I've not messed with the battery temp sensor yet... not until I get the ECM upgrade... My brake controller has a built in digital volt meter, it compares with my portable fluke... AH614D, where did you find that digital voltmeter for your RV... like you, on a cold day my truck will charge the batteries... but as soon as the temperature heats up to above about 60* the charging voltage fall off to 13. 6 - 13. 8 in the cab on the brake controller and with the fluke at the RV batteries its like . 6 volt lower... . and using a hydrometer... I just don't see the batteries fully charged...

Don't mess with the sensor, just update the software. I drop off when warm, but nothing like you do.

The voltmeter is a Blue Sea Systems 8235. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-dc-digital-voltmeter-8235

They make a matching ammeter that I will be installing this coming winter along with relocating my batteries to under the storage near the charger (sealed AGM's safe for indoors), and ditching the Group 24's for a pair of 300AH 6V's.

I can't even begin to share how I DON"T WANT the truck in the DEALERSHIP... that's why I considered the work around with the temp sensor...

Find someone local with a Smarty, no dealership required.

Actually... PM sent.

 

[JJPage]

AH, You may already know, but AGM's are not totally sealed. They are categorized as VRLA's(valve regulated lead acid), I have installed and maintained more of these than I can count while in the telecommunications industry. They do exhaust, they also swell and push their terminals right out of their case, or the case cracking with age and making a hell of a mess. I like them, prefer them over a typical lead acid, but would definitely use some type of containment tray/case to house them in. Just something to keep in mind. Jess

 

[Bob4x4]

The modern charge controllers. Are so much better than the old type I kick myself for not doing it sooner. I did the converter for charging on shore power and also the controller for the solar panel. I almost always boondocks,now no more battery troubles. The longest I ever got on trailer batts was 2 years but some only made it one

 

[AH64ID]

AH, You may already know, but AGM's are not totally sealed. They are categorized as VRLA's(valve regulated lead acid), I have installed and maintained more of these than I can count while in the telecommunications industry. They do exhaust, they also swell and push their terminals right out of their case, or the case cracking with age and making a hell of a mess. I like them, prefer them over a typical lead acid, but would definitely use some type of containment tray/case to house them in. Just something to keep in mind. Jess

Definatley! I will doing some sort of sealed and outside vented box for sure.