Competition BD anti-surge valve or something similar?

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Competition DFW BIG DAWG DYNO and DRAG

Hey guys,

I am looking for some help. For the guys with 5 and 6 speeds, what are you doing to keep from barking the turbo between shifts when running high boost? I have looked at the anti surge valve that BD is selling, but can't really recall anyone running one. Does anyone have any experience with one or a similar product? I would like to get something to relieve the pressure between shifts to save the turbo. Thanks for any help it is appreciated!



Lmills
 
I have a BD turbo gaurd on my 6 speed and I love it!!!! When I am towing and making high boost shifts it does a great job of keeping the turbo from barking. I would highly reccomend it :D
 
after riding in hoss' rig and seeing how the bd trbogrd works i had to try one. works well on my 3g w/ 48re. if i let off too quick i hear a puff of air instead of the trbo barking. a good device to protect these expensive turbos
 
It is installed between the intake and the intercooler. It keeps the air in the intake from running back thru the intercooler into the front of the turbo and causing the compressor wheel to stop resulting in a turbo "bark"
 
hey muddy how do you have the electronics set up, im very interested with this bov but was told not to use on street truck. any input or info would be appreciated. thanks



jake. .
 
jd,,,,,,,,the later bd turbogrds for the 3g trucks, are plugged into a pin on the ecm to control the unit vs using a microswitch. tis adjustable.



wonder why ya was told not to use on a street truck. this unit works well and does what it is supposed to. normal driving doesnt release any air,just when ya got a good amnt of boost built and let off real fast
 
There is no reason not use the BD turbo gaurd on a street driven truck. I have one on my daily driver :D It works great!!!
 
HOSS said:
causing the compressor wheel to stop resulting in a turbo "bark"



This is somewhat true.



What actually happens is the turbo wheel will "stall", not as "I stalled the motor", but as in, "Airplane wing" stall. The turbo continues to spin, but the air rushes pass the "wings" on the turbo, "stalling" the "wings", resulting in air either not being pulled in from the turbo, or in severe cases, the air will actually reverse out of the turbo. This phenomenom loads and unloads the wheel in the compressor, and of course, the exhaust wheel is not experiancing any of these "loads" that the compressor wheel is experiancing, so all the loading and unloading is transferred to the exhaust wheel through the shaft. All this surging going through the shaft weakens it, and it is bound to break at sometime. You can only hammer on something so long before it breaks...



Merrick
 
this is off in a totally different direction but worked for me. i used my high idler when drag racing. yep! turned it on while staging. once you leave the line the idler will help keep the throttle from returning to idle and the RPM's up while shifting, thus eliminating half the turbo bark you would normally get.



i had my idler (built it myself) set for 1700 rpms.
 
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