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Better fuel filter than 7 micron? Dodge OEM Severe Filter kit PART #68083853AB

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Airdog 2 keeps blowing fuses!

High Exhaust Temps

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I went with a pair of CAT filters back in '09 when I first learned about them. I'm happy with the choice I made. I changed them only when I noticed a significant pressure drop a couple winters ago. I eventually got around to changing out the stock filter later on in the summer of '13 and was wondering why I was about to throw it away. :confused:

The stock filter with 50k miles looked the same as the new one I swapped in!! That filter looked like a new one that was dipped in clean fuel even after 4 years!! I might change it out this summer or put it back in and keep the new one as a spare lol!! Perhaps, Wyoming has fuel that is just cleaner than the other 49 states. :-laf

FWIW... I have 104k+ on it now and drive it 60 miles a day and haven't had a fuel related issue since I purchased it new with only 3 miles on the odometer. :cool:

I would implement a more frequent filter change. I won't let mine go over 18 months, 30K miles, or a pressure drop. Filters do deteriorate from age and should be changed more often.

Which Cat filter are you running? There are several better options now.
 
For the vent filters, you never need to change them, they just breath air through and wont clog under normal circumstances.
I wouldn't lift the bed for this its easily done with a mirror and there is enough space to push the piece of neoprene hose over the 3 tips.
 
For the vent filters, you never need to change them, they just breath air through and wont clog under normal circumstances.
I wouldn't lift the bed for this its easily done with a mirror and there is enough space to push the piece of neoprene hose over the 3 tips.

Ozy, let's be honest here, you wouldn't lift the bed because you have a 2000# camper in your truck bed...LOL.

That being said, it CAN be done with a mirror etc, but lifting the bed is not that hard either.
 
w6pea, I have not but what he has set up is pretty much an ideal filtration setup. Add the factory canister for more insurance, and it looks good. 2 issues I have.
There's no heater. In some zones, remote filers need to be heated.

I'm not thrilled with the tight loop in the one short bed photo. Perhaps there's not much choice, but that's too tight a radius for that hose IMHO. I would make it out of hard tube, but that's my opinion.
 
NavyJoe
Has any of you folks installed one of these set-ups?
http://www.dieselfuelfilterkits.com/docs/Cummins_Dual_Filter_Kit_Install.pdf

w6pea, I have not but what he has set up is pretty much an ideal filtration setup. Add the factory canister for more insurance, and it looks good. 2 issues I have.
There's no heater. In some zones, remote filers need to be heated.

I'm not thrilled with the tight loop in the one short bed photo. Perhaps there's not much choice, but that's too tight a radius for that hose IMHO. I would make it out of hard tube, but that's my opinion.

Wayne M;
I believe you are referring to what they show in the set pictures; (I'm not thrilled with the tight loop in the one short bed photo.), I didn't think about it when I saw that but I think that you are right on that, I really think that set up would be great if they made it with an option for the Hard Line (for trucks w/short bed )
 
Now you have me even more curious. I have always assumed there was some kind of filter in a vent if nothing else to keep bugs out. I've also wondered about a check valve to prevent fuel spillage. It is one place I've never explored on my truck. Just to hard to explore without a reason to do it.

Here's a factory big truck install of a vent filter. See it strapped to the frame?
image.jpg


image.jpg
 
I may be a little late in the forum. I run the OEM filters from Alliant Diesel. I plumbed in another stand fuel filter base, and mounted a Cat 1R-0750 or 51 filter. I'm a Cat dealer tech, so cat parts have an advantage to me, wink. I basically made it just like the Glacier Diesel kit. But I did it all myself. I got some awesome steel braided hose rated for diesel fuel. Made it look cool. Mounted it over the front left corner of the engine and it basically intercepts the fuel going to the CP3. I change it every other time I change my primary filter. I usually cut it open to analyze to make sure I haven't been going to long.
 
NavyJoe
Has any of you folks installed one of these set-ups?
http://www.dieselfuelfilterkits.com/docs/Cummins_Dual_Filter_Kit_Install.pdf

That kit mounts to body which would have the least harsh vibrations, that is good.

It is upstream of the stock filter, which is good. People mistakenly assume that a brand new filter is immaculate inside. I once took and new oil filter, plugged the dirty side openings with silicone, filled it from the clean side with Coleman fuel triple filtered to 0.45 micron, poured the fuel back out of the oil filter and ran it through a 0.45 micron pad. While it wasn't too dirty, there was some metal particulate visible under the microscope. Also, I would not want the last filter before the CP3 to have a threaded metal to metal connection on the clean side of the filter. Imo there is much less chance of damaging particles from a filter change with a drop in element type (like the stock one) than there is from a metal spin on type.

Like Wayne M has pointed out, in the cold climates a heater would be a good addition. Check that the hose supplied with the kit is compatible with biodiesel blends. Because of the way snow and slush pack around the transfer case and freezes solid on my truck I’d want a guard or box to protect those filters from road debris, ice, etc

I did not like the suggestion in the instructions to use antisieze on the threads of the filter. I have no idea what antisieze would do to the fuel system and wouldn’t want to find out! If thread galling with those particular filter bases is such a risk then maybe different filter bases should be used.

You don't need the tankkit, that can be done with very cheep fuel filter from lawnmower or something, and a little 3/8 Fuelhose.
I ordered my SDFK from Stevewhite.com with the VIN, so got what I needed.
Ozy
The simplest thing to do is cap the vents on the tank and install a vented fuel cap. The stock fuel cap can be modified to vent by removing a spring.
 
"I did not like the suggestion in the instructions to use antisieze on the threads of the filter. I have no idea what antisieze would do to the fuel system and wouldn’t want to find out! If thread galling with those particular filter bases is such a risk then maybe different filter bases should be used."

Anti Seize on what? Any coating on anything- I hope this means pipe threads on the filter head should be a liquid sealant like loctite 567 and very sparingly.
 
Says it two places in step 6. Here it is with their formatting:
Before installing the front compression fitting to the front steel line, we will want to install and fill the
new filters with fuel. Install both filter using a small amount of provided anti-seize on the threads and
hand tighten them being sure to lube the top rubber gasket on each filter so they’re easier to remove next
time. We recommend installing the red Baldwin filter closest to the frame using the O-ring it came with.
The Cat filter does not require an O-ring for installation.

** BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSS-THREAD THE FILTERS ON THE FILTER BASE. **
**We recommend using a little anti-seize on the threads since they are similar metals**
*We will not be responsible for galling due to all the variables of a do-it-yourself kit*
 
I've been spinning filters on equipment from all over the world for 30 years. I've never done or have been trained or read about doing anything like that.
If thread galling is an issue there, then there are more questions to ask.
 
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