Blend doors again... SORRY!

[jroyster06]

:-{}



I know i know. I am having blend door issues. I know that a lot of them strip on the axle but i dont think mine are. My issue is sporadic. Sometimes they work great, sometimes not. I seem to remember reading recently maybe in TDR mag or somewhere in forums about it being an electrical issue at the fuse box under the hood but no one had a sound answer that i saw in the premature phases of the thread, now i cant find it. Any ideas?

 

[JFought]

One usefully testing procedure is going to the "heater treater" web site and following the procedure and that should help you (i have had mine done 2 times by dealer, next time it will disappear, or i will go the heater treater route. )

 

[jroyster06]

Like i said before im not sure its the blend doors i think it may be electrical. Sometimes they work great sometimes they dont.

 

[wcjp]

Sounds like your doors are temporarily jammed. They are probably going past the designed stop. The blend door itself (fresh/recirc) is easy to replace without tearing apart the dash. Agree with earlier, HeaterTreater.

 

[RDeFayette]

Dodge Ram 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, blend door auto AC heat replacement part

They also have a diagnostic section.

 

[p-Bar]

Some guys have had failed control units . Something to consider

 

[Blue Ox1]

I have the same problem as the original poster some times it works and sometimes not . I found the controls online for 120. 00 thru dodge so I'm gonna try changing the head unit. I took mine out to change the bulbs in it and you can hear stuff rattling around in there so I figure a shot in the dark but if it fixes it great.

 

[jroyster06]

What i read was something about a connection near the TPM. Not sure as to any more detail.

 

[jroyster06]

does anyone know where i can buy all new blend doors. Pulling the dash is no big deal and i would much rather spend 4 hours doing it right than 2 hours cutting into the box and cutting corners.

 

[Blue Ox1]

You can still buy the doors from heater treater and they are better quality.

 

[LBARTLETT]

i recommend the heater treater doors, had my dash pulled and replaced all 4

 

[TGVET]

Mine failed two years ago my lemon was barely four years old then and about 160K. I read/watched the Heater Treater videos and it was mentioned dealer pulling apart dash was a risk with all the delicate connections & wiring etc. . Watch the vids. . My friends 06 Commander had the same issue (blend doors stripped) same as mine, dealer pulled apart and now there's a rattle. Took back and they can't find what it is. . If anyone here has pulled there's, I'd sure like to know how your success was in getting it all back w/o any issues. Pretty sure I'm going the H. T. way, cutting the metal support brace then brazing it back.



I'm at a point now, where I have nothing good to say about Dodge/Chrysler consider all the problems costing me $$$ and my time to keep running especially since I am a maintenance freak. I got 476K and 10 yrs. on my GMC Sub. w/6. 5TD before it choked a valve. Thinking 2005 with superior technology and everything good I heard about the Rams is why I went Dodge.



Never again.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Heater Treater blend doors all the way.

 

[Bob4x4]

Do not always blame the doors,pay close attention what is going on when you have intermittant issues. My control head started failing intermitantly and was a bit of a pain to verify. The 3rd gen dashes are the very easiest I have ever dealt with as far as removing goes and no risk of rattles has been my experience in the many I have done

 

[MChildress]

Mine has been stuck for a couple years now just blowing out the dash vent. It will not blow out the defrost or floor vent anymore.

 

[TGVET]

Mine has been stuck for a couple years now just blowing out the dash vent. It will not blow out the defrost or floor vent anymore.

Mine was like that for a while too then I got a flashlight and looked into the floor vent opening to see the doors off the axles just laying cock-eyed in there. I formed a piece of insulated 10g solid wire with a V or U notch and then in sort of a S shape. Edge of the door/flap fits into the V/U notch pushing the flap up and then the other end of the wire on the carpet outside the vent with enough tension to keep it up and open to get air back on my feet. Been living with it like that now for many months until I make time this summer to tear into it whether I do it via the dash removal or the Heater Treater method.

 

[jsffd]

I installed the heater treater kit, cut the box and it works great. A dremmel tool with the cutting rod, easy to cut, works like a router. Then i used the discarded plastic pieces and plastic welded it back together with a soldering iron. Its been over a year and it works great. No heater core removal, a/c disconnect etc. I had a lousy heater for 4 years!!!

 

[Alaskaskiff]

I recently pulled the entire plenum box out and replaced all the doors with heater treater ones. Losing defrost in winter in Alaska is an issue that can make the truck undrivable if the weather is uncooperative (frequent). Don't intend to get in that situation again. Took me about 6 hours to pull it all apart and put it together. I paid a shop to pull down the AC before I started and then recharge after completion.

I was unwilling to hack on the boxes and there is one door that is very hard to get to.

Unfortunately heater treater does not make the split blend doors for the Laramie version with the dual zone heating. Heater Treater folks say they don't fail too often. Hope they are right.

The job is not hard, but it is time-consuming. Only tool that is a little different is the disconnect tool for the AC lines. Lisle makes a $12 kit for that and it is available at Sears among others.

There are some excellent pictures in this forum on what needs to be taken apart.

After no defrost and no floor heat at -20 (without wind chill) I have a new-found appreciation for a properly operating heater system.

 

[TGVET]

I recently pulled the entire plenum box out and replaced all the doors with heater treater ones. Losing defrost in winter in Alaska is an issue that can make the truck undrivable if the weather is uncooperative (frequent). Don't intend to get in that situation again. Took me about 6 hours to pull it all apart and put it together. I paid a shop to pull down the AC before I started and then recharge after completion.



I was unwilling to hack on the boxes and there is one door that is very hard to get to.



Unfortunately heater treater does not make the split blend doors for the Laramie version with the dual zone heating. Heater Treater folks say they don't fail too often. Hope they are right.



The job is not hard, but it is time-consuming. Only tool that is a little different is the disconnect tool for the AC lines. Lisle makes a $12 kit for that and it is available at Sears among others.



There are some excellent pictures in this forum on what needs to be taken apart.



After no defrost and no floor heat at -20 (without wind chill) I have a new-found appreciation for a properly operating heater system.

Could you point to them please ? I am going to do mine this summer and don't really want to do any cutting either as depicted in the Treater videos. Mine is also w/the split system.



Thanks for you input.

 

[Alaskaskiff]

I just searched for heater treater and blend door.

Lots to read. Don't remember exactly where I found them.

Good luck.