Brake Help Needed...

[mconstable]

... ... ... UPDATE... ... ...



Sorry I haven't posted back, been stuck a few times trying to get from OH to TX.

In a nutshell, I've had the exact same thing happen on 3 different wheels.

Somehow, and I don't know the chain of events, the pistons seals are blowing, the pistons are applying full-force, and all 3 times, when I took off the caliper, one or both of the pads are completely gone, backing plate hanging outside of the caliper!

I've replaced two, have to do the other one before I leave TX, and either replace the 4th, or pray.

This has been an extremely frustrating trip... Dexter has been extremely helpful, overnighting parts and what-not at least.

 

[B.G. Smith]

For a new trailer the pads should not be worn out so quick. Your brakes must not be releasing, maybe the actuator is defective?? Or maybe the linings are coming off the backing plates? Probably the seals on the piston are blowing after the brake pads come out of the caliper allowing for too much travel. On the worst of my wheels, the pads still had a small amount of lining left but was worn much thinner on the forward end of each pad, also the original linings were riveted on and the replacements are bonded. Mine had four pistons per caliper which is probably condusive to uneven pad wear. When you get back on the road you should try to measure the temperature of each hub to see if you can determine if something is dragging. You can get a little hand held pyrometer for under fifty dollars. Good luck, keep us posted. bg

 

[mconstable]

On each one of the calipers I replaced, one lining was completely gone off of the backing plates... I figure getting the actuator needs to be checked next.

 

[Mark31]

mc, after installing the Prodigy (replacing a Voyager), I made a "check it out run" with my gn 16k equipment trailer. Within 3 miles, I heard the actuator motor running even though the brakes weren't being applied. So, it was back to the Voyager until I got the P3. All of that leading up to this: I wonder if your wear didn't come from your Prodigy/Hydrastar incompatibility. Make sure on the P3 you selected and then confirmed electric/hydraulic mode.

 

[EB]

mc, after installing the Prodigy (replacing a Voyager), I made a "check it out run" with my gn 16k equipment trailer. Within 3 miles, I heard the actuator motor running even though the brakes weren't being applied. So, it was back to the Voyager until I got the P3. All of that leading up to this: I wonder if your wear didn't come from your Prodigy/Hydrastar incompatibility. Make sure on the P3 you selected and then confirmed electric/hydraulic mode.

I agree, I also believe your problems came from the incompatibility of your controller to the brake system. I have a BrakeSmart that probably has over 400,000 miles of towing on it and the last 100,000 have been with a 24k, 40 ft gooseneck with electric/hydraulic brakes hauling oil field equipment all over Texas and the neighboring states and have never had any problems. I'm still on the first set of pads with over 100k miles of heavy hauling. Again, I also believe your problems have come from your controller. Electric/hydraulic brakes are the only way to go.



To an earlier poster, when the DOT stops and road checks you, he will have you pull your break-away and the try to pull forward, if you can roll, you have a problem. It won't hurt your controller.

 

[mconstable]

Thanks for the help again guys... I'll post pics of the 2nd blown caliper later.

First one blew with the Prodigy... next two were with the P3, all settings are/were correct on the P3, and Actuator only comes on when brakes are activated (I've had to bleed the system twice).

Starting to wonder if Dexter got a bad batch of pads... dunno?

 

[B.G. Smith]

I finally received parts to do some repairs on mine (Dexter 8K axles with disc brakes, electric operated hydraulic). I did some checking and found some things that you already know. The inboard brake pad back plate has room to come out of the assembly if the lining is gone, the outer pad does not have room to rotate because of the hub of the rotor. If this happens the caliper piston can come out of the cylinder about 1 1/8" before it would contact the rotor which is almost past the cylinder sealing ring which might already be enough to allow the fluid to escape, if not, when it contacts the rotor it could wear off enough to come out past the seal and dump the fluid. With the possibility of the pad falling out and the pistons passing the seals, I wonder just how safe this design is on the highway? The original pads on mine were riveted but the new ones are bonded, hope they stay on???? bg