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Brakes, speedometer, tires

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1st Trip with camper - 2001 HO/6 speed

bombing?

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Help. I have a 98 12 vavlve, 52,000 miles. Last month I added the Rickson 19. 5's and the Abbott ERA. No problems, everything works as advertised, in fact, I am very pleased, thanks Dan! Going down the road, with the windows down, turbo singing and the front brakes, without being applied are squealing, LOUD. So it's off to the shop. The front outside pads are trashed, the inside pads are good and the rotors are trashed. Ok, Flush system and replace brake fluid, new rotors, new pads, over haul the hardware. On the rear, swap to 3500 wheel cylinders, replace the hardware and new shoes for baby.

As advertised by my wonderful friends at TDR, the stopping power is great and I am a happy camper. One week later I get brake pedal flutter, like the ABS is kicking in..... at 10 miles an hour, right before I come to a complete stop and there is a "tick, tick, tick noise (about ten times) from under the hood right in the area of the master cylinder. Have not been able to get my 12 year old to ride under the hood to find the exact location of the noise... . Then it stops and the pedal is a little squishy. No problem stopping. Had the brakes bleed again. Then on the way to the B. O. M. B shelter (for safety and peace of mind) my speedometer starts waving at me. I accelerate and the speedo goes from 60 to 40 and then floats up to 70 and hangs at 35..... The brake "lights" are Not coming on. What the heck? Help, is the doctor in?
 
DOWG, Do you have four wheel anti-lock brakes? The clicking sound is probably the anti-lock going off. The guy at Rickson told me that with the EPRA and the four wheel anti-lock brakes you`ll sometimes feel the anti-lock kick in from ten MPH down. He also told me that the anti-lock brake light on the dash may come on. Just a thought, Good luck... JW

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John W. - Indiana - Black 99 4x4 QC Sport LB 24V AT 4. 10 Gears Loaded Including Leather and cab lights,285 BFG A/Ts , 16x8 American Racing Baja Wheels,Bed cover, Bushwacker flares, Ventvisors, Rancho RS5000 Steering Stabilizer, 12,000lb Winch mounted where the spare tire used to be, Walker #21468 straight thru muffler... and my Halo light still works!! Bomb My truck?? No way!!(Wink Wink) More to come ...
 
I have the RWAL only. This morning I unhooked both negative battery terminals for about 30 minutes and let the computer reset; speedometer problem went away. Still have the clicking. Andy Remond, local TDR guy, helped me this morning. We checked the vacuum. He suggested that when they bled the brakes they did not use the "special" tool to allow the proportioning valve on top of the ABS to benefit from the bleeding. Thanks for your suggestions.
 
OK, so I drove with the new cam plate, hard. The speedometer problem is back. Do I have a rear wheel sensor problem?

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1998 Driftwood Extended Cab, short box,12 valve, 52,000 miles, Banks cam plate, K&N air filter, Lubrication Engineers Lubricants, Rickson 19. 5's, Abbott EPRA, NoCat,Ranchhand headache rack with side rails, in bed tool chest, side steps and rear bumper.
 
Originally posted by DOWG:
I have the RWAL only. ... He suggested that when they bled the brakes they did not use the "special" tool to allow the proportioning valve on top of the ABS to benefit from the bleeding.

Would ye be kind enough to let me know if bleeding the prop. valve makes a difference? I've been having the same symptoms since I installed my EPRA (although the symptoms come and go). I'd had the front brakes redone at 32k miles (including at least one new caliper), and didn't have the problem then. Only after installing the EPRA. Of course, I've been driving the truck that way for 15K miles, and the *only* problem has been when coming to a stop, under 10 MPH. ... Well, there is *one* condition under which the problem has never appeared: when I have a heavy load in the bed; I'm
wondering if the height-sensing valve in the rear needs adjusting.

I think the 'soft' pedal feel is the result of the height-sensing valve activating - I'd get the same thing when stopping hard on a very rough road. The ticking I *believe* is the ABS pulsing the brakes.

I am quite certain that the problem exists because the Abbott box is adjusting only one lead of the balanced signal. I'm going to write a short PostScript program so I can see what kind of waveform the CAB is likely seeing. Since the CAB reacts to sudden changes in the signal, there must be something in the signal at 5-10 MPH causing the CAB to think the rear wheels have rapidly changed angular velocity.

Now to find out how many teeth are on the sensor ring in the rear diff. And compute how many pulses are generated per MPH. ...

Fest3er
 
Thanks for your thoughts on this, information is good. It is amazing how consistantly poor the brake system is; my front brakes were described as 85% worn and 60% worn on the rear at 34,000 miles. DC is different, but with a serious corporate mentality defect; if the problem can be ignored and consequently does not effect the stock price, it's not a problem. Larger tires were our decision, but why put stock 16" tires on the 2500's and 17" tires on the 1500's? "Looks" (marketing) versus performance is obviously more important to DC. From reading your comments, there is something going on with the Abbott EPRA, ABS, speedometer and height-sensing valve. Because of the holiday weekend I have not been able to have the brakes bled according to the previous recomendation. I am going to e-mail Rickson and ask them to read this thread and advise.

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1998 Driftwood Extended Cab, short box,12 valve, automatic, 3. 55, 52,000 miles, Banks cam plate, K&N air filter, Lubrication Engineers Lubricants, Rickson 19. 5's, Abbott EPRA, NoCat, Ranchhand headache rack with side rails, in bed tool chest, side steps and rear bumper.
 
Howdy! Thanks for tuning in! I went for a 250 mile trip today; 1st half no changes, 2nd half I pulled the fuse to the EPRA. There was no change in the speedometer. Specifically, I accelerated to 62 miles per hour @ 1800 RPM's which equates to 70 miles per hour before the problem with the speedo. After reaching cruising speed, if I accelrate, the indicated speed goes DOWN and hangs there. My quess, with very limited qualifications, is there is nothing wrong with the EPRA and it is some kind of wheel sensor/ABS problem.


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1998 Driftwood Extended Cab, short box,12 valve, automatic, 3. 55, 52,000 miles, Banks cam plate, K&N air filter, Lubrication Engineers Lubricants, Rickson 19. 5's, Abbott EPRA, NoCat, Ranchhand headache rack with side rails, in bed tool chest, side steps and rear bumper.
 
Dan Richter's response: (something changed and he couldn't post it himself... . ) Formatting errors are mine!

Fest3er


DOWG:Thanks for the kind words and sorry to hear about your problems with the brakes. Also, I appreciate you contacting us regarding the problems. I'm trying to monitor the site on a regular basis, but time only allows so much
surfing. First, the easy part. Outside pad wear is generally a slider problem whereas inside wear is a caliper piston. Sounds like the calipers hung up on
the sliders and you licked the problem. BTW, had the front axle been submerged at any point? Is doesn't take much dirt/rust to hang those things
up.

fest3er: Do you also only have 2 Wheel ABS? If so, you're the first one we're aware of that has had an EPRA problem with that system. We think that 3
EPRA's will solve the 4 WH ABS problem, and will be installing 3 of them on our truck this week. Abbott has said that they may be interested in making a
3 channel unit.

As far as the EPRA problem is concerned, in case anybody from DC monitors these forums, its incomprehensible to us that we have to resort to such chicanery in the first place when they know that a lot of people are going to install larger tires (especially with those huge wheelwells). DC should provide a way to make adjustments. Both Ford and GM allow their technicians and/or owners themselves access to the revs/mile in the ABS computer to compensate for larger rubber. DC used to allow this to a certain point, but the software for the DRB III scan tool gets updated nightly from DC and several technicians that we've spoken with said they used be able to adjust the revs, and knew exactly what we were talking about, but that feature is no longer there. The option simply disappeared off their menu screen. We shouldn't have to reinvent the wheel. No pun intended.

In reading the Dodge (99) shop manual, they give procedures for both manual and power bleeding of the brakes. For Rear ABS, it appears that no special tools are needed unless power bleeding the system, in which case the metering valve needs to be held open. There is a certain procedure that must be followed though. In the case of 4 WH. ABS, the DRB III scan tool needs to be used in conjunction with normal bleeding procedures. There is no adjustment procedures for the height sensing proportioning valve. I'm perplexed as to why the problem goes away with a load as that valve only increases line pressure and really shouldn't have any effect on the ABS system. Of course, the height sensing proportioning valve is increasing line pressure while the ABS solenoid is attempting to modulate the same line pressure. There may just
be some dynamics going on there that the symptoms go away, but the problem may still exist.

We've been working on brakes and speedometers this week so the thread comes at the right time. Unfortunately, I'm a mechanical engineer and other than the one electrical engineering class that we were forced to suffer through and my basic understanding of the subject, I'm no expert in the field of electronics. I don't have an answer yet, but I'm hoping that collectively we can get one so I'll just think out loud for now. DOWG didn't seem to have a problem until the brakes were worked on and fest3er has had the problem only since installing the EPRA. Only correcting the signal on one wire of the twisted pair has bothered me also. I'm going to get a hold of the engineer at Abbott and get their take on the subject as well as do some other research. We've also been thinking that correcting the signal between the CAB and the
PCM (pin 12, wht/orange) but need to know what we're trying to correct.

I'm wondering if any of the performance companies that deal with the electronics side of the 24V trucks (chips, boxes, etc. ) might also have some
insight into the problem. Anybody monitoring who wants to chime in, give us a call or e-mail. Its a business opportunity waiting to be solved and I'm not particularly excited about going into the electronics business.

fest3er, it sounds like you know about electronics. I'd be very interested in your results from monitoring the signal off the speed sensor. It's an AC (sinewave) signal that increases frequency as the exciter ring passes the sensor and the magnetic force is cut. Again, not sure the effect of modifying "half" the signal, but it does seem to work. Now, the signal coming off the CAB and going to the PCM, I'm assuming, is not an AC signal due to it being only one wire. I'm guessing that its either DC (Direct Current, not Daimler Chrysler) current or voltage that's being changed with vehicle speed. Our preliminary testing indicates it's a voltage change. If you have the know how
to monitor that also, maybe we can figure out how to change that signal and take the CAB out of the picture all together. I'm also going to try to get
some help from the electrical engineering dept. at my old school. The signal changes so fast with time that an oscilloscope or other digital data collection method such as the Postscript program that you mentioned is necessary.

Up to a certain point, the CAB only cares that all the tires are going the same speed (4 WH. ABS), or that the comparison algorithm does not indicate
imminent lockup (2 wh ABS) and does not necessarily care that the tires are going the "correct" speed. The problem with that method is that the CAB only
has so much tolerance in that comparison. Some Antilock controllers will allow as much as a 15% variation before tripping a code in the system while others may be as low as 3%. If the Dodge Controller is on the high end, correcting the DC signal may be the answer for both 2 and 4 wheel systems.

Any other electronics guru's who want to help, feel free.

Dan Richter
Rickson Truck Accessories
1-800-587-7633

PS: Would one of you post this on the Forum. Rob changed something and I can't post and the link on the homepage that would tell me what changed doesn't work. I have a username and password, but had never posted before.
 
Hey Dan, DOWG here. Actually, I am steve Parker in Dallas. After thinking this all over a bit and working on it today in the sun, 97 degrees here today. This is what I think. I do not have 4-wheel ABS, just the RWAL. When I installed the Abbott EPRA per your instructions, it worked perfectly. Since the brake job, I get the symptoms Fest3er described when coming to a stop and as he said it does not happen all the time.

The speedometer problem just poped up last friday. ; Today I pulled the rear wheel speed sensor; it was very dirty (15,000 miles on the gear oil) and had a big metal chip stuck to it. Of course I freaked and checked and changed the gear oil; looked fine, no other chips and the magnet had what looked to be metal fines from wear similar to what you seen on the autotransmissiom magnet.

So, after reading your last e-mail with Fest3er, I believe the Abbott is OK. But, I have had the inline fuse out since saturday and I have a question. I put the fuse back in, do I need to reset the dip switches per your instructions, power on, power off, etc?

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1998 Driftwood Extended Cab, short box,12 valve, automatic, 3. 55, 52,000 miles, Banks cam plate, K&N air filter, Lubrication Engineers Lubricants, Rickson 19. 5's, Abbott EPRA, NoCat, Ranchhand headache rack with side rails, in bed tool chest, side steps and rear bumper.
 
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