Braking pulling 30ft 5er

[milto]

I have installed the best brakes NAPA sells both front and back,yet don't feel I have adequate braking(they feel soft untill you really push on them). I feel I have the controller set correctly, had a dealer check it out . Is this normal, and does the quality of the brakes make a big difference. Is there a better brake shoe to buy, any suggestions?? I don't plan on pulling in the mountains but would surely not feel safe with what I perceive my brakes to be, yet I know many do pull in the mountains. Short of a Jac brake is there some thing I can do to have more firm and better brakes.



1995, auto, 4. 10, 2500, 65K

 

[HEYBOSS]

need more info

Ok replaced front and rear brakes on what? truck or trailer? Had dealer check what? brake controller or brakes?

Assuming, only assuming that brakes were replaced on truck even if it was on trailer you should check rotors and drums. Some people just throw pads or shoes on without doing anything to rotors/drums even if they look good. (if rotors and drums are glazed or have burnt spots you will not have a good braking surface) You should have rotors and drums resurfaced or replaced if needed, make sure wheel cylinders and calipers are working properly, brakes are properly installed and adjusted, bleed all brakes. Also sometimes some vehicles will have proper brake performance when only using OEM brakes.

 

[Dieselnerd]

Something is wrong for sure. If your truck stops good when not towing it must be the trailer brakes. Mine normally stops as good while I am towing my 35', 14K fiver as it does solo. When it started to be harder to stop while towing last year, it was the brakes on the trailer that needed rebuilding. Had grease on 2 of the 4 linings. Your trailer should have brakes that are big enough to stop it very well as long as you are not overloading the trailer.

 

[Mschevey]

I agree with all of the above and will through in my $. 02 also. If the softness in the brake peddel is your concern. And eveything else checks out OK. You may be feeling the effects of the stock brake lines.



Try replacing the 'Rubber' hoses with Braided. Less expansion of the hose to deal with and more relaible. Quality is everything here.



I would recomend a Jake Brake (any of the major brands) if you tow often. These are very helpfull at extending how long your service brakes last. Just be cafefull on wet or slippery raods.



Mike

 

[Eric_77]

Have you ever replaced the stock brake fluid? If not or if you see brown looking fluid it is BAD! Good fluid is clear. Hi-Pro stuff is sometimes red blue green etc. Don't use the Hi-Pro and when I say Hi-Pro I mean serious racing stuff it is only good for about 4-5 HOURS. Best stuff to use on the market now is DOT 5. 1 do NOT use DOT 5 it will destroy brake system seals. If you cannot find DOT 5. 1 the Valvoline synethic DOT 4 is really good as well as the Castrol DOT 4.



DOT 3 DOT 4 and DOT 5. 1 are all interchangeable fluids but DOT 3 is too low of boiling point and I don't beleive it is ABS approved.

 

[jphuffs]

Eric:

There have been previous discussions in the forum on this subject. A recommendation was made to change the rear wheel brake cylinders on the 2500 to the 3500 cylinders. The 3500 cylinders are a direct replacement with a larger diameter, increasing the rear wheel braking effect. I made that change and was surprised at the improved braking. The best price for these cylinders is at mopar4less.com.

 

[LFarrar]

brakes

I agree with e-brake I have on my setup w/30ft 5er some of this feel that I get I beleive is in my anti-lock brake setup,but not much I can do about that though that's my nickles worth /keep the change LOU

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Brakes can break

Milto,



Your truck brake shouldn't feel "soft" when driving, the pedal WILL feel soft when the truck is stopped and the engine is running. Shut the truck off, pump the brakes to use up vacumn reserve, then the pedal should feel solid without much free travel. If not you have problems in your truck brake system. Air in the system, rear shoes improperly installed/adjusted, (I think that a '95 still used a primary and secondary brake shoes), master cylinder, etc. Also check the vacumn to your brake booster, the age of your truck is about the time that the vacumn hoses collapse or leak. When you get the truck brakes working properly, manually engage the trailer brakes (fully) from about 30mph (do this without braking your truck), the trailer should slow both the truck and trailer quickly, maybe even locking the tires on the trailer. If not there are a lot of trailer brake possibilities, let us know and we will try to help. Lastly, how much does your trailer tongue weight lower the rear of the truck when hitched?

 

[Big John]

I had a problem on my "89 5th wheel that involved the rear axle brakes. The previous owner said his only complaint about the trailer was that he could never get it to stop right. I started checking, and found the rear axle brakes were not working at all. I rewired everything thinking it was a break inside the wire insulation. Did not help. Finally took direct readings through the magnets and both rear magnets were bad! Had been that way for 9 years!



He had towed this 32 foot trailer all over New Mexico and Colorado with one axle of the two not working. The odds of getting two bad magnets at one time on one axle must be pretty low. Just shows you that you must follow proper procedures when checking out brake problems. If anyone, including me, had read tyhe book and followed Dexter's advice, they would have found this problem.



Big John