Bullydog Propane Injection Installed...........Observations so far

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Adam,

On your first post, you said you turned the regulator screw IN one turn after you got a rough idle. Did you mean to say you turned the screw OUT instead?

I set mine up the other day with it IN one turn after a rough idle. It took off like a rocket, then stummbled and smoked and sounded like I was going to throw every rod thru the block #ad


The directions say OUT 1 1/2 turns after a rough idle. It runs good at this setting. I have found this is still conservative. I am IN almost to a rough idle now. And left it there.

Yours is an early system. Maybe the instructions are different. Also 2 adjustment screws, One is IN for more gas. The other OUT for more gas.

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94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust,Autometer Pyro & Boost gauges, Bosch 215HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 BTDC, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit,Pschotty Air, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket, Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 09-15-2000). ]

 

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I'm REAL intrigued by all this - it would SEEM that upgraded injectors, in addition to the Banks stuff I already have would provide substantial additional power, and THEN, a propane inject system COULD act much like a nitrous setup on gas engines - except for the need to re-adjust the pump.

My interest in the propane would only be for heavy pulling situations, so would not particularly want the propane to be online under more casual driving. Wonder if there's any way to switch the propane system in/out without serious complications in fuel management?

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Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

 

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its on a switch to turn it on or off whenever you desire for the amount of power you desire.

Hemi,
I think what happened was you let off thinking it would run the same with the amounts of vapor you were injecting, wrong, that setting is to be used for full power or at least a high load situations only. I do have a early kit but they are all the same, the top screw is out for more sensitivety to vacume, the bottom screw is in for more volume. A side note is you now know what detonation sounds like.
Adam

 

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AH!

I think I misunderstood your description of adjustments - I thought you needed to make adjustments to the injector pump for best operation with the propane - but now see it was the propane regulator you were adjusting!

VERY interesting!

Thanks.

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Early '91 250, 727 AT, 307 rear... Banks Stinger exhaust, intercooler... US Gear OD... MORE than a match for every new PS Ford encountered so far...

 

[Archive]

Adam,

Have you adjusted the top screw on the regulator(the small one with the lock nut) at all? The directions say to adjust this one ONLY if you can`t eliminate pinging with the large volume adjusting screw.

If so, does it do anything?

I hope you don`t mind the questions. #ad
The BullyDog instructions leave alot of unanswered questions & Phillip does not like to go into detail answering question via E-Mail #ad
Yes & No are about it..... lol




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 09-16-2000). ]

 

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yep your right about Phillip, I usually like to talk with Darrel about this kind of thing, he's more performance orriented and the one to tell me how to get the most of my kits, he told me to take that out as far as I felt confortable to make the keeper nut not pull it out and this will make it react faster to vacume. I havn't really done compairisons becouse I set it on max from the time I put it in, I think about putting it in for the street some times half way but am waiting for my new regualtor to get hear first.
Adam

 

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Thanks Adam,

I read the directions again. It says put the screw flush with the lock nut on a 6. 5L GM diesel. It came from bullydog out quite a bit. It seems to be pre-set up for the Cummins.

I see on the Bullydog website a "race" propane system is in the works.

[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 09-17-2000). ]

 

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yep I'm not sure what a "race" kit would entail being you can only inject a total amount of vapor before detonation accures.
I don't really think the top screw makes a hole lot of difference but maybe try all the way in and out to see if its noticeable.
Adam

 

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Had to have the propane tank filled today. Last fill was Sept 10. Almost 2 solid months with a 20lb tank. ! A guess of maybe 800 miles. MPG seems to be up 2-3 too.

A question: There is some sort of a red oil on the bottom of the propane regulater. Looks like transmission fluid. The regulator housing gasket is wet with it too. It this some sort of lube thats in the propane itself?
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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 11-04-2000). ]

 

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That is likely just crappy propane. In motor fuel systems you get a bit of cracking of the propane meaning some impurities settling out. Usually this is a result of being subjected to heat. It is more prevalent with liquid systems where you have the heater hose supplying the converter with 190* water from the engines cooling system. It is sometimes referred to as parafin. You should find the foreign junk on the inside of the regulator, not on the outside.

 

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Bill R
I'm making some headway at trying to get mine working. I did find that when I bypassed the boost switch (during troubleshooting) that I'd get a smell of propane in the cab. I suspect it's because there wasn't a whole lot of suction being created in the intake between the filter and turbo. My boost was usually pretty low at that time (2 to 6). That would also seem to indicate that I can't run with propane on all the time, only when there is enough vacuum being created in the intake tube. Since I've got a K&N filter in it, that opens it up even more. When I turn the shwitch on, I feel a kick in the pants and off she goes. When I kill the switch a minute or so later, I can't feel any loss of power? Maybe because I don't have enough propane vapor feeding the system? Latest round of troubleshooting with Michael at Bully Dog, he thinks that maybe I'm using the vapor too quickly for the tank to regenerate it. My tank is a 20lb bbq tank. I've verified that I can get full feed out of the tank without it doing an automatic shut off. I guess some tanks will seal off automatically if the flow is too great. Michael recommends joining 2 bottles together with a "tee" and see what happens. Do you ever get a smell of propane in the cab? I've double checked the system and can't find any leaks. Since I only smell it with the switch on, that seems to indicate either a leak from the regulator to intake hose, or maybe it's backing up through the air filter. Since I can't find a leak, I suspect it's the latter. I'm in San Diego now and the ambient temps have typically been near 70 degrees, I'd think that's plenty warm to keep the lp evaporating in the bottle.

 

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Banshe,


I have never smelled propane in the cab. I would get a rag and some soapy water and wet down the regulator and the fittings. Check for leaks.

I am running a Scotty Air System . (K&N RE-0880 Cone filter) This has much LESS restriction than your K&N in the stock air box. I believe there is more suction than than there appears to be. When I`m adjusting the regulator with the Boost switched jumped and the toggle switch on, the engine responds quickly to the adjusting screw. In a split second the engine responds to the excess propane. At idle. Keep in mind the gas needs to travel thru the turbocharger compressor,then the intercooler and into the intake manifold. The intake air has to be moving much quicker than it would appear. There is 0 boost at idle.

My Idle is set at about 900 RPMs`.

Did Phil or Micheal at Bullydog say anything about adjusting the set screw on the side of the regulator? Its the one with the 7/8 lock nut. Adam told me this is the screw that makes the regulator more or less sensitive to vacuum. Turn the screw OUT for more gas. IN for less.

As a last resort I would take the plastic hose that feeds the intake duct, remove it from the air filter. Shut down the truck. Jump the boost switch, have a helper hold the propane hose away from the truck and turn on the system and see how much gas you are getting. Let it run for a few seconds, then shut it down and try it again. Turn the big regulator screw in to see if the flow increases, if it cuts back or does not increase, theres something restricting the gas flow. Either in the P. O. L fitting or the propane tank valve itself. This should tell you whats going on.

Maybe Adam has some ideas?

Good Luck

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 11-06-2000). ]