bumpers that could take a "hit"

[rich m]

I'm getting annoyed at the stock spare-tire carrier and the stock bumper.
Here's some reasons:

1: it's kind of a wimpy setup, just adequate for the stock tire, and location is only for the stock diff cover. My MagHytec and big Rickson spare just don't clear, unless I cinch the tire up further aft.
2: I don't like the thin-metal tube and press-bent hexdrive that rotates the little windlass. Mine's been wallered almost round by lifting that 120 lb spare... (I BOMBed that, BTW... hammered in and welded a 1/2" squaredrive extender. Now, my other extender and my breaker-bar are my tire-lift tools, rather than that hexdrive thing in the jack-handle kit)
3: No room for that auxiliary fuel tank from that company that markets that stuff
4: as for the bumpers, they're kinda thin, and truck bumpers, IMHO, should have flat surfaces that can be used to mount things, or even as an emergency anvil if something needs straightening, not cosmetic curvature that discourages that kind of utility.

SOOOOO... . I'm considering fabricating up a rear bumper with a swing-out tire mount, and a nice locking mechanism to carry the spare like a big SUV.

I'd suspect that a piece of 2x6x1/4 (or 2x8x1/4) rectangular tubing would make a good starting piece. then a piece of 2x2x1/4 hitch-tube welded onto it, vertically, capped at both ends with 1/2" plate. For the pivot, a piece of 1" or 1&1/2" steel rod passed thru the 2 pieces of plate, and the tire-trapeze framework suspended from it.
For transport stability, the free end could be swung into a reciever(integral to the bumper) and pinned with a standard 5/8" hardenedsteel hitch pin. This part could be directly below the centerline of the tire, for max support, and would probably end up very near the framerail, to minimize flexing of the bumper and the welds, perhaps even kind of inside out, or offset, so that the tire's weight actually rests on the bumper itself, instead of being supported solely by some kind of stalk, like so many that we all see.

Could also take a big holesaw (or a plasmacutter! #ad
) and cut out ports for some REAL backup lites...

Any of you engineering types detect any flaws in my plan? (weld quality, etc would be up to the steadiness of my hand, but if I start with a bad idea, all the welding skill in the world won't keep it from failure)

how much frame overlap should I use when I design the mounts? a foot, foot-n-a-half? I'd probably use the next size down of C-channel,and slide it right inside the existing framerails, and just match up 4-8 existing holes on each side, then attach with grade 5 or 8 hardware... . again, flaws in plan??? remember, you might be behind me some day. #ad

 

[illflem]

Rich, use this stuff and you won't need a spare. It will seal a 45 cal hole but you may have to slow down some. Maybe we can get a group purchase, they have a price break at 10,000 units #ad

 

[illflem]

radixr, I was just kidding with rich because I know he can't drive slow. I use the industrail grade, mainly because it's cheaper, on my farm equipment and have used it on highway rigs to stop slow leaks. It works excellent. I've pulled out 20 penny nails and one time even a piece of 3/8" rebar out of tractor tires with no leakage whatsoever, . The sealant has a stringy material in it that almost looks like sisal rope strands, it gets stuck in any puncture then the liquid part hardens when it contacts outside air, it is a permanent fix. There is no problem with tire balance with it. Only problem I've found is if you take a tire in to be replaced or removed from the rim, the tire guys hate it. When they pop the tire off the rim the stuff spills out and makes a mess all over the tire machine, it dries very fast. Even though it cleans up easily with just water the tire monkeys like to have something to gripe about. I always try to warn them beforehand so they can break the bead with a bar outside where it is easy to hose off. They've gotten wise and ask me when I bring a tire in now.


[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 05-04-2001). ]

 

[rich m]

Bill---25mph? yer crampin'my style, man!

QUOTE]Originally posted by EricBu12:
Rich,
Take a look at these bumperes http://www.ranchhand.com/main.html

Look cool
Eric

they do look cool, but I'd need tire-mount, too. I think Andy P has a well-made setup, but the fabricator got sick, and doesn't do'em anymore... soooooo, I guess I'll hafta do my own. . #ad

 

[EricBu12]

Rich,
Take a look at these bumperes http://www.ranchhand.com/main.html

Look cool
Eric

------------------
2001 QC 2500 4x4 bronze W/two tone Driftwood, 24valve HO 6sp. Westin side bars, fender flares, Rancho RSX off-road shocks, Spray on bedliner, Leer shell Painted to match with LED marker lights, Bf Goodrich AT Tires. Bed rug inside shell W/aux marine deep cycle batt for lights, etc. M Brolins' CB mount.
Name of rig is "big bronze Brute"

 

[radixr]

Bill,

I don't know if you are kidding about that tire sealant (Ultra-seal) but there is no speed restriction on the commercial grade. It sounds like something that would go over big at an event like MM.

 

[B-Ark]

Rich,
Like you, I'm contemplating a beefier rear bumper. I've looked at the various different ones available, and although some look quite promising, the price tends to scare me off.

So I'm hoping to try and build my own. Rather than use stock rectanglular tubing, I thought it would be better to have a metal shop bend a channel of the appropriate dimensions. I checked my metal stock catalogue and stock tubing is only available in a limited range of sizes, while the channel could be created with the optimum dimensions. The shop that I visited can bend 1/2" plate easier than I bend my elbow for a beer, so this will be a piece of cake for them, and won't cost much. The rest of the work, I hope to do myself.

I would use 1/4" plate, have it bent into channel, and then weld several vertical reinforcing pieces inside the channel, to make it more "crush-proof". Near the ends, I would cut out a pie-shaped slice from the top & bottom of the channel, bend it inwards to create a rounded look, and then weld the top & bottom back together.

Attachment to the frame would be via 1/4 x 2 or 1/4 x 3 bar stock (although I like your idea of using channel). I would go for as much overlap as possible. I'm planning on putting a small "pocket" or hoop at the bottom of the bumper (in line with frame rails) to accept the business end of a hi lift jack, so the frame mounts will have to be able to support a large fraction of the vehicle weight.

Cutouts for backup lights is a good idea. Don't laugh, but I've cut holes in 1/4" plate using a cheap B&D jigsaw with a bi-metal blade. A bit slow, but for a a small amount of cutting, its a reasonable alternative.

I agree with most of your ideas on the tire carrier. My other vehicle is a '91 pathfinder, and I've always been impressed with the sturdiness of the rear tire carrier. I'm hoping to get one from a scrap yard and adapt it to this bumper.

After it's finished, I would paint the whole thing with POR-15. That should keep it rust free virtually forever.

I've got a reasonable number of heavy tools to help make this project a bit easier - metal cutting bandsaw, drill press, gas and mig welders, and various grinding tools. If I ever win a lottery, I'm buying a plasma cutter. I'm currently in the process of building myself a bending brake (should bend 16 gauge).

It's all a bit ambitious, but I'm stupid enough to give it a try. If it turns out a total disaster, it won't have cost that much, and I will have learned to not "start vast projects with half vast ideas". Anyway that's my project for next winter.

Good luck with your plans.


------------------
2001 regular cab 2500 SLT 4x4, ETH 6 spd, 4. 10 LS. ,
BFG AT KO 285/75-16
Line-X, Palomino pop-up camper.

 

[merryman]

Rich;
I used 3/8" thich 5" channel in three pieces, with the bottom piece overlapping the two top pieces to form a middle step. The ends are blocked off with flat stock at an angle, and there is a dummy flat stock piece on the bottom middle 1/3 for looks. The trailer hitch reciever comes through that. The spare is slung from a pulley mounted on square tubing between the frame rails and is lifter by a lever made from an old tie rod mounted to the hitch reciever using the original tie rod end. When the tire is "hooked", the tie rod end is at the left end of the bumper-just grab the tie rod and swing it to the right hand end of bumper and the tire lifts up to the carry position, and the end of the tie rod just hooks in a "U" welded inside the channel bumper. I have carried a spare this way on my '50 Dodge since 1967 and 126K miles on my 93 Dodge. Also ran the same bumper (before modification, on the '84 Ford for over 100K miles. I did not make the conversion on the "01 because of the system in place.
I had to do something different when I was driving down town in the '84 Ford, enroute to a meeting in suit and tie when the spare tire carrier decided to die. For a few seconds I could not figure out what that god-awful noise following me was. Try to get the tire out of the carrier and into the bed of the truck and then remove the hanging (and scrapping on the pavement) tire carrier off and into the bed of the truck and still make it to a meeting with out getting the suit messed up!!!! Not a good day. That night I started working on an alternate system for the spare.
Simple but works; the bumper is tuff and I get nice comments about the looks.

Vaughn

 

[rich m]

howdy, B-ark and merryman-- B, that quote would make an excellent bumpersticker!
m--pictures?? (that's right, i'm not above plagiarism! #ad
)

 

[rich m]

within just a few miles of my house is ShearForce Demolitions. . they do implosions of old casino-hotels #ad
and the debris winds up out at their yard. I'm not above doing it with a nice piece of 4x6x3/8 I-beam. . to paraphrase Crocodile Dundee, "Now theah's a bumpah!"

 

[Guest00]

merryman:

Pictures , man pictures !!!!!!! #ad

 

[QRTRHRS]

Here's a "tough" looking bumper.

#ad
http://www.knockamule.com/bumpers.htm

 

[dan_gilson]

Reunel bumpers

I have a Reunel rear bumper. It is made from

1/4" plate. Which beat the sh*# of the stock

bumper that folded into the body work after

someone bumped me on the freeway. $1500 for

the body work for that bump.



When I got my Reunel bumper the

price was less than the stock bumper that

it replaced. The dealer wanted $575 for the

stock and Ruenel was $540. After I added

a 12K# winch, PIAA backup lights and

1/2" D rings the total cost came to $2K.



I backed into a tree and had a 35' flat

bed hit the Reunel and no real damage.

The flat bed lost a lot of paint and buggered

a corner which I fixed with a mill file

and some touch up paint.



http://www.reunel.com/

http://www.abhunter.com/reunel1.htm

 

[COBRAJET]

Reunels are pretty tough. The front one pictured on the PSD below weighs in at 425lbs... with the winch and lights it is over 600lbs. The rear is around 175 lbs. They make them for the Dodge as well. www.reunel.com

 

[HoleshotHolset]

After getting in an accident @ 2AM yesterday when some drunk POS rear-ended me... . I need two new bumpers.



Since the rear Reunel is cheaper than OEM... . I wonder if the front is too... . hrmmm.....



Matt

 

[me4osu]

Bumpers

Have not had anyone hit me with the Ranch Hands on my rig. However I installed a bumper we used to make for our company trucks on my wife's Furd. It is 3"x 5" x 1/2" wt. SA-105 structural tubing with 3/8" SA-36 plate for the frame tabs and the hitch platform. A lady in a Honda Civic rear-ended the rig in Houston. Totaled the Honda and scratched a little paint off of the Furd's bumper. I could take some pics of the bumper and sketch some dimensions if you are interested.

 

[dan_gilson]

Mr. Ruenel has pictures of a 65mph head-on (130mph impact speed) between a 1st gen Dodge and a Toyota. The Dodge having one of his bumpers on the front. It looks a little tweaked but the cab and all the glass is OK. The Dodge was not drivable afterward (it took the motor off the mounts). The guys in the Dodge had their seat belts on and were a bit sore for the next few days.



The Toyota did not fair so well. It looked like a pyramid of twisted aluminimum. The people on the Toyota lived after being air lifted and a could of months stay in UC Davis.



Any accident that you can walk from sounds like a good one to me.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

My girlfriend and I were lucky enough to walk away from this one... . I sure am glad that I was in a big heavy fat a$$ed truck like mine instead of a little econobox... ...



Reunel's bumpers are looking better by the day... but the weight is a bit of an issue.



Matt