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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Burned up my engine today

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Banks defueling

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) smoke question on new truck

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Cliffman it sounds kind of fishy hunh, I sure hope that is what it was, I just wonder why that truck ran good witht hem in that state; makes me want to pull mine out and have them checked...
 
I wonder if my new FASS system had anything to do with the injector's going south. I know it's not just a fuel pump. It also removes some of the air out of the fuel.
 
Brian, what would be the disadvantage to just boring the one cylinder. The cost of 5 more pistons and also boring 5 additional cylinders is around $1000. 00. Would it have a rough idle? Would there be more vibration? What exactly is it?????
 
Originally posted by Cliffman

I wonder if my new FASS system had anything to do with the injector's going south. I know it's not just a fuel pump. It also removes some of the air out of the fuel.



Hey Cliff I sure hope not :confused: I am due to install mine here very shortly..... would think that more guys would've seen problems with their injectors if the FASS was the culprit:eek:

Where did you finaly find a stand to hold the cummins and whats your time frame for getting back on the road??

Dave
 
Personally, for "ordinary" use, I can't imagine boring a single cylinder would present a noticeable imbalance - were you planning on re-ringing other cylinders too? I would be more comcerned about the better ring seal in the new cylinder than the oversize itself - much of that could be minimized by lightly honing the other 5 and installing new rings - might not add that much to the total expense...
 
Gary, at the very least I would bore out #6 to 20 over, hone the rest and install all new rings and seals. What do you concider "ordinary use"? I'm running 410 to the rear wheels and I get a little spunky sometimes :D not to mention the fact that my buddies and I race up 6% grades pulling a 15k 5er. All in a very safe manor of coarse :rolleyes:
 
Excellent point, Gary.....



Cliffman, in the end, your'e gonna do what your'e gonna do... . but I gotta ask a question,



Do you really wan't a $40,000 driveway scuplture? Or you must like doing rebuilds? :D



Brian
 
To be honest with you guys I have never had my cummins apart yet. But I have rebuilt my fair share of SBC's and BBC's and I would think you would want to hone all the cylinders or bore all cylinders to keep the pistons pretty close to the same weight. I know a few gram's don't sound like much but when you get it moving at 2500 to 3500 rpms it's got to add up JMHO. Maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong.



Matt
 
renegade681



Your'e right, man. A few grams off and you set up a vibration in a 150 pound crank spinning at 2000 rpms... ... .....



. . I shudder to think about it.



Get it?



Shudder. Heh heh :D
 
Okay guys, I've decided to go ahead and bore all the cylinders 20 over. Now my questions is, should I use ETC pistons instead of ETH pistons to lower the CR or just go with a 20 over head gasket. Don't forget, I'm having the head shaved. Don't know how much yet.
 
On a higher RPM engine, 20 over in a single cylinder MIGHT be noticeable - but guys who have done it claim to not notice it. On a slower reving engine like the Cummins, ESPECIALLY with so much other heavy rotating mass and slower speed, I doubt it would be noticeable at all - but, if ya wanna sleep well at night, the extra work and expense will be worth it!



And for my money, I'd take lower compression pistons over a thicker head gasket any day... Keep in mind that proper injector spray patterns are very sensitive to tip position relative to piston crown/bowls...
 
if ya shave the head enough you NEED the thicker gaskets for the difference in valve heights. . probably not an issue if you go to the lower compression pistons. . best to measure carefully
 
Have you received any reasonable explanation as to how your truck could have been running reasonably without proper pop-off pressures with the injectors? I was under the impression that with a single injector having this problem there would be a rough idle at least. Anyone, please enlighten us with a theory. :confused:
 
Cliffman and others,



I've read all the posts to this thread and have a few questions to put to you. I run the Edge EZ with the jumper set at the factory setting, elbo installed. I'm hemmoroidal I may face your same situation as I tow heavy in the summer months when we return to MT and the Northwest. I too got the "thump-thump-thump" sound while uphilling with the 15k 5er in tow. Had the dealer do the TSB thermostat fix and haven't had a chance to tow since. 1) I assume'd this WAS the fix for the "thump-thump-thump". 2) Am I in danger of blowing my engine running the EDGE EZ and pulling heavy? My Westach gauge is post turbo and never hits 1000 degrees. At the 950 level I start to back off. It shows about 600-700 degrees when I'm running at 60-65 mph in 6th. I use my Pac Brake lots as well.



Cheese! I need some comfort here... ... is there any? I'm still in factory warranty BUT they sure wouldn't cover this, eh.
 
Originally posted by ERNIE PINK

Cliffman and others,



I've read all the posts to this thread and have a few questions to put to you. I run the Edge EZ with the jumper set at the factory setting, elbo installed. I'm hemmoroidal I may face your same situation as I tow heavy in the summer months when we return to MT and the Northwest. I too got the "thump-thump-thump" sound while uphilling with the 15k 5er in tow. Had the dealer do the TSB thermostat fix and haven't had a chance to tow since. 1) I assume'd this WAS the fix for the "thump-thump-thump". 2) Am I in danger of blowing my engine running the EDGE EZ and pulling heavy? My Westach gauge is post turbo and never hits 1000 degrees. At the 950 level I start to back off. It shows about 600-700 degrees when I'm running at 60-65 mph in 6th. I use my Pac Brake lots as well.



Cheese! I need some comfort here... ... is there any? I'm still in factory warranty BUT they sure wouldn't cover this, eh.



Mine did the thump thump thump stock when pulling heavy. Thought it was coming apart... Relocated the heater hose connection up on top of the motor to the front one plug and it didn't ever do it again. Thanks TDR for the fix, it's in here if you search long enough. I didn't want to run the DC thermostat but rather the cummins 180, just in case... .

jarsong
 
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