I've just gone through the learning process here in Florida. I had hoped to be able to run my well pump with my Honda EU1000i, so I'd at least have water. No such luck--it wouldn't start it.
Fortunately, I was able to string a couple hundred feet of heavy gauge extension cord over to my neighbor's generator to run the pump (that worked OK until he added a window air conditioner to the load after a couple of days, then was pretty marginal). I was able to use the EU1000i to run one refrigerator and a couple of fans (no air conditioning is no fun :{ !), and oh yeah, the DSL modem (phone lines didn't go down), the wireless router, the DISH receiver, and a big TV. After the pump results, I was pleased with what the little guy could handle.
I had myself all fired up after the power was back on to get a 15,000 watt Generac automatic standby generator with automatic transfer switch ($3,000 from Harbor Freight or Home Depot). Besides firing itself up for 10 minutes of exercise once a week, it would start up and transfer within 30 seconds of a power loss (my electrical service is really unreliable--I lose power at least once a week during the normal summer thunderstorm season).
Unfortunately, after looking at the fuel consumption numbers, and figuring I'd need about 750 gallons of LP on hand to get through two weeks without power if this scenario plays itself out again on the worse side (four days was bad enough here, and I still could find gasoline for generators at one nearby station), it looks like it would cost $1700 for a 1,000 gallon propane tank (plus installation), plus $1850 for the initial fill. All-in-all, too much of an initial investment for contingency planning.
So when they finally got some in stock (well after our power came back on, naturally), I got a 5550 watt (8550 surge) Troy-bilt from Lowe's for $659. I was close to springing for the $400 transfer switch with 10 circuits, but there are really 12 I'd like to have the option of using (not all at the same time, of course). So, since I have a 60 Amp 240 Volt circuit run out to the little garage out back, I'll install a 30 Amp generator inlet plug there, and just switch off the main breaker before connecting the generator and switching off the unneeded circuits at the main breaker panel. The only drawback over the transfer switch (besides being sure to isolate with the main breaker) is not knowing when the utility power comes back on.
My experience with the EU1000i addresses your real question about the refrigerator load; in searching around I've found several websites (although I haven't saved them) that list typical loads for estimating generator size needs.