Can I move my neighbor's trailer....safely?

[Radshooter]

My neighbor in this RV park is retired, 80some odd years old. He wants me to help him with his trailer. He had it delivered and set up somewhat permanently. He drives an F-150, and cannot move his own trailer.

It is on asphalt, and he wants to put cement or wood under his tires. As I understand him, all I would do is pull the trailer ahead 8 or 10 feet, then back it back onto the blocks.

The trailer is a Jayflight Bungalow, by Jayco, and has 2 slides, 40ft. long. Bumper pull travel trailer. I am set up for fifth wheels, and have never had anything bigger than a 12' Uhaul on the receiver hitch. My hitch is stock for '03 trucks. Don't know what class it is, but it is tubular if that helps. I looked and could not find anything stamped on it that would indicate Class III, IV, etc.

Can I handle the trailer safely without hurting the truck or receiver? I don't plan on using a WDH (don't have one) for such a short distance.

I suggested jacking up the axles and sliding the blocks under the tires as an alternative to unhooking sewer, power, cable..... He said he would think about it.

Thanks... ... . Steve

 

[AMerrill]

yes you can. your truck can handle it and your receiver hitch will too they would not put it on if it couldn't handle it



You have alot of responsiblity when you are hocked to it.

 

[jelag]

I don't think you have a problem... . however if it was my trailer I'd jack it up and support yhr frame and axle and take most of the weight off the tires. .

You can level the trailer and if there is a slow leak its not affecting the level of the trailer... and the support under the frame will unload the suspension so that someone walking inside the trailer is walking on a firm floor, not one sitting on a spring supported axle...

 

[abdiver]

How much hitch weight

yes you can. your truck can handle it and your receiver hitch will too they would not put it on if it couldn't handle it



You have alot of responsiblity when you are hocked to it.

This is to inform not burn anyone.



This statement is incorrect The stock receiver hitch is a class IV which which is rated for a max hitch weight and total trailer wt

Just because there is a hitch on your truck does't mean you can tow anything that has wheels. Someone might assume with your reply that they can and get into trouble. I would imagine that if the trailer is just pulled staight ahead a few feet slowly and then returned to the starting position. A stock class 4 reciever will be ok to do it But not to tow it down the road. Most that tow travel trailers over 25' have a Class V hitch

.

I agree with jelag reply and would suggest your talk friend into going that route, less work involved to no re-hooking up etc.





* Class I Hitches are ideal for regular towing. These hitches are good for use on smaller cars, such as small sedans, sports cars and compact cars. Class I Hitches can be used to pull a trailer that is six feet long or a boat that is 14 feet long. The Gross Towing Weight for Class I Hitches is up to 2500 pounds.

* Class II Hitches work well on larger cars, such as midsize sedans and minivans, but are not suitable for compact cars. Class II Hitches can be used to pull a trailer that is 12 feet long or a boat that is 20 feet long. The Gross Towing Weight for this class is up to 3500 pounds.

* Class III Hitches are suitable for heavy duty towing. For example, it can be used to pull a 24-foot boat trailer. The Gross Towing Weight is 3000 pounds to 6000 pounds, but can be extended up to 10,000 pounds with a weight-distributing hitch.

* Class III and IV Hitches are great for extra-heavy duty towing. The gross towing weight for this class is between 3000 pounds and 6000 pounds. They are ideal for use with full-sized trucks and they can pull up to 10000 pounds with a weight-distributing hitch.

 

[HBarlow]

I agree with Jelag above. Your truck can handle the tongue weight and move the trailer easily but sometimes backing it onto blocks is more difficult than it sounds. If the owner wants it on anything taller than one 2" x 8" board often the boards will slide out from under the wheels as you try to back onto them and they can even flip up and damage the tanks or belly skin of the trailer.



It would be simpler and easier, possibly safer as well, to connect the coupler to your truck's ball and use your truck to anchor the trailer in place. Then use a good hydraulic bottle jack under each side of the trailer axle at the equalizer (the cast iron or stamped steel rocker between the rear of the front leaf spring and the front of the rear spring) to lift the trailer, one side at a time and one step at a time if necessary. Then when it is level front to rear and side to side slip the concrete blocks with one board on top under the frame distributed appropriately. The frames are usually fairly weak and will sag if not supported every eight feet or so. Your neighbor will like it better supported under the frame because it will feel as solid as a house when you're done.



Harvey

 

[Sean Woodruff]

Your truck can certainly handle it but be careful backing up on the blocks. If it is just a block that is a couple of inches off the ground that won't be a problem. The higher the blocks, the more you should lean toward jacking it up like mentioned above.

 

[KBalzuweit]

I deliver bungalows, they are somewhat tongue heavy. But if you are only pulling it forward then moving it back you will be fine. Just make sure you are using a drawbar rated for the weight.

 

[AMerrill]

I was taken the wrong way with what I had meant to say in posting my response, this is new to me. I have been a mech for over 9 years I had looked at what he was driving and that is what I was going off of. Knowing that the factory was not going to put something on a truck that could not handle what the truck is rated for. I'm sorry, I was not intending to burn anyone.

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks everyone. My neighbor said he could borrow a stinger with the correct ball size from someone else. Don't know if I have the right size or not... ... haven't investigated it that far yet.

I have been pulling fivers for nearly 10 years, backing them onto planks, blocks, etc. so am comfortable with that aspect. Never had a TT hooked to the truck though, other than an 1800 lb. popup, and a 12' Uhaul loaded to the gills with furniture, a gun-safe, and books. Don't know what the Uhaul weighed, but it is nothing compared to the TT. Also, with the fiver, the wife is always spotting for me. We have our system down to a T, speak the same language and signals, and now I hate moving the fiver without her.

I haven't had a chance to talk to him about blocking the trailer up completely. Not sure he wants to make it that permanent, but that would be an idea to think about.

Amerill..... Welcome to the group. Thanks for the input. Hang in there and don't get discouraged from posting. Anyone with 9 years mechanic experience will be valuable to the group.

Thanks again... ... . Steve

 

[HBarlow]

Thanks everyone. My neighbor said he could borrow a stinger with the correct ball size from someone else. Don't know if I have the right size or not... ... haven't investigated it that far yet... ..... Steve

Steve,



2 5/16" is the correct ball size for that trailer.



Harvey

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks Harvey. I don't have anything even close to that size. If he can't borrow a stinger, maybe he could buy a ball for me to use, then let him keep the ball. I don't have any use for anything that big, so I don't want to buy it.

Thanks again... ... Steve

 

[steved]

I was taken the wrong way with what I had meant to say in posting my response, this is new to me. I have been a mech for over 9 years I had looked at what he was driving and that is what I was going off of. Knowing that the factory was not going to put something on a truck that could not handle what the truck is rated for. I'm sorry, I was not intending to burn anyone.

Actually, there are TWO hitch options on the 3rd gens... a factory installed class IV or a dealer installed class III... both are an option on his 03, depending on what the original package came with.



steved

 

[TurboFan]

just FYI, my 1996 2500 8800lb GW Diesel beast had a factory hitch (90% sure it was factory) that was pathetic. something like 5,000 lb rating. Go figure.



Just don't assume that they will put on a hitch commensurate with the trucks capabilities.



When I pulled it, it had cracks in the redius' of the main supports.



Now a cat V Titan in it's place.



Good luck

 

[steved]

just FYI, my 1996 2500 8800lb GW Diesel beast had a factory hitch (90% sure it was factory) that was pathetic. something like 5,000 lb rating. Go figure.



When I pulled it, it had cracks in the redius' of the main supports.



Good luck

There was a TSB to add two additional support brackets to prevent those cracks... just an FYI...



IMO, to move even a fairly large trailer a few few shouldn't hurt anything (even a class III)... its not like is being subjected to bouncing/jarring that would be encountered driving down a stretch of highway.



steved