Cerametallic clutch

[glhs]

I've got an update! South Bend in after 19,000 miles.

Put my cerametalic clutch in around Aug. 2004. I did use the dual friction since I was told the same thing everyone has said. "Is good for around 450 hp and 1000 ft. lbs. " Well my first and only time at the track it worked perfectly and did 5 consistent runs down the 1/4 mile in 4x4.

Move ahead a few months and I tried to do a quick shift from first to second in 2wd and hello slip city! :{ I called the company and they told me the same old slave cylinder story. So I ask myself, if they would offer me a replacement, do I want a full blown cerametalic lined clutch? I decided to wait until I pulled it apart. I wish now I had taken a picture of the flywheel. Substantial groove in my 6 speed flywheel (cerametalic side) and not much material left on the disc after just 19,000 miles. Pulled a trailer once. I pulled the old original out after 135,000 miles because it would slip from shifting fast. Still had 20 - 30,000 miles left on it. Go back to Joes post (#31) and he talks about wear leading to loss in clamp force. I think this is what happened.

Would I buy another. NO WAY!

Sent clutch and pressure plate to South Bend and for around $300 converted to a FE type. So far so good. Was told By South Bend the pressure plate tested at a stock clamping force around 2700 lbs. The FE is supposed to be around 3150.

My reasons for buying were the same as Gary- K7GLD. It seemed to be a good value and in my case, (1st gen) came with a new flywheel. It never slipped going down the road with trailer in tow, but then again neither did the stock assembly.

For those of you looking to up your power little by little and still have a single disc clutch, the cerametalic won't cut it! It will only cut the flywheel! :-laf

My hp/trq numbers in sig. are from ATS Mustang dyno in Denver. I made 425/950 corrected on a Dynojet 248 in Fort Collins.

Kurt

 

[trqmnstr]

glhs, do you think the cerametallic would be ok for me? I have only a few small mods and don't plan on anything big in the near future. The most I ever tow is about 7k lbs - and even that's on Florida terrain. I think the cerametallic would be good for my situation. I'm really looking for another route besides the almighty and expensive SBC. I found the cerametallic for $600 at Carolina Clutch.

 

[pwerwagn]

Just an update....

I just wanted to Update this thread with my impressions of the Cerametallic:



I put a 13" cerametallic in 10,000 miles ago. The pedal is softer than the stock clutch was, and engagement is positive. Its not grabby, unless you take your sweet time letting it out. 2nd gear starts with a light trailer (6-7,000lbs) are no problem if you just go and dont take you time letting it out. anything more than that weight and I have to use 1st gear. (I have 3. 55's and 33's).

so far I love the clutch. It holds good, drives great. Even the wife doesnt mind it. She actually likes it better than the stock clutch, since the pedal is lighter.



--Jeff

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

My reasons for buying were the same as Gary- K7GLD. It seemed to be a good value and in my case, (1st gen) came with a new flywheel. It never slipped going down the road with trailer in tow, but then again neither did the stock assembly.

For those of you looking to up your power little by little and still have a single disc clutch, the cerametalic won't cut it! It will only cut the flywheel!

VERY sorry to hear about your experience with the LUK Cerametallic - and your info definitely needs to be added to others here!



One issue not really well addressed in this thread, is some sort of feel for the real life, typical lifespan of the LUK Cerametallic. My own has been in use about 2 years and 20K miles, mostly towing, and actually seems to get better with age - but 20k is hardly enough distance to make a radical recommendation upon.



It is, or should be, a given that a clutch such as the Cerametallic *will* subject the flywheel to significant wear over and above what a purely organic disk will, but how much more than a similar performing unit, such as the SBC Con OFE?



Fact is, all the higher performing disks are pretty aggressive as to flywheel wear factors, and any of them will require resurfacing the flywheel after a normal period of use - but is the LUK worse than the others in that regard?



Any comparative experience out there where comparisons have been made between several clutches similar to the LUK Cerametallic have been in use? What's the most miles a LUK Cerametallic user has seen on his clutch without problems?

 

[Hohn]

Fact is, all the higher performing disks are pretty aggressive as to flywheel wear factors, and any of them will require resurfacing the flywheel after a normal period of use - but is the LUK worse than the others in that regard?

I would suggest that it might be.


I've seen pictures of a Con FE (which is a 550hp clutch) that had a lot of VERY hard miles on it. The owner had reached the FE's limit and was going to dual discs.

The flywheel had VERY little wear on it. It still had the machining marks from the initial treatment for the FE's installation (FE's requires a flat flywheel, and it's tapered from the factory).

It appears that the FE is actually pretty easy on flywheels, even after it's slipping.

This put to rest any fears I had about making the FE my upgrade of choice. It will hold all the power MY truck will ever see.

 

[CFAR]

75,000 miles on my SBC FE. 450hp 970ft/lbs



No problems to date. Release point is near the bottom. Gotta have long legs for these trucks.



Would I buy one again, hopefully I won't have to. But yes I would.

 

[Matthug]

Hey guys, I was wondering if anybody has tried this clutch-

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ryZ33730QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



Seems to be a nice deal for a drop in replacement to us NV4500 guys with moderate but not crazy HP, and it's feramic instead of cerametallic. I have about 300 RWHP now, stock clutch is starting to let go. I was wondering what you guys thought of this clutch.

On a personal note, I would get a LUK cerametallic in a heartbeat if I didn't have to get the flywheel upgrade and spend $1000. My bro has one in his 02' 6 speed, 400 RWHP and 850 ft/lbs for 10K with zero slippage and complete driveability similar t ostock pedal feel with a hint more grab. He has a TST Comp box to add on here in a little bit, should be right around 475ish-500 RWHP and almost 1000 ft/lbs.

 

[pwerwagn]

From what I've read, Its wise to stay away from anything with the hub from the 12. 25", except the Sachs design, which isnt really a 12. 25".

In all honesty, I didnt pay much more for my Cerametallic, with the smaller 1-1/4" input than whoever "bought it now" on ebay. And a local machine shop did the hole drilling in the FW.



--Jeff

 

[glhs]

Here it is.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

WELL, as I tried to point out in a related thread, my own selection of the LUK Cerametallic vs competing stuff - most notably the SBC stuff - was based on my own needs, expectations and actual use of my truck.



My truck has the mods listed in my sig, and is used primarily as a RV towing vehicle - I don't race or pull sleds - or similar extreme clutch abusing activities. I was, and AM primarily interested in the ability of my Cerametallic to hold the power of the engine while IN gear and towing the 5er up steep grades - as well as decent daily driving empty around town.



So far, after nearly 30K miles, the clutch is as good or better in operation than it was when installed - NO trace of slipping under load, and while positive in engagement, not at all objectionably so.



BUT, all that said, IF I wanted similar power and to also use my truck in competition events - or if I tended to drive it more like a teenager than the old coot I am, then I'd likely spend the extra $$$ for one of the excellent SBC alternatives.



For most satisfying end result, you MUST realistically match your intended use with what's available to meet your need! A LUK Cerametallic is no more the "best" choice for every user, than is any single clutch SBC has to offer!



That simply was not the situation in my case, and in matching my various needs and expectations against cost, the LUK seemed a good choice in bang for the buck - and I have not thus far had any reason to feel that decision was a mistake, SBC or otherwise!

 

[pwerwagn]

I dont regret my decision at all either, Gary.



I love my Luk. However, if I had the money I would have bought the SBC, period. And not totally for the holding power, but mainly for the fact that Peter sources parts from only america, supporting US.

the price diff between the con FE and cera was not to much, but I was getting married about 3 weeks after I needed the clutch so the couple hundred dollars was much needed.



Oh well...

-Jeff

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The real benefit to us is that there are now a number of good clutches that hold a lot of power. Ten years ago there was "nothing. " Each upgrade clutch has its "features" and buyers should be aware of them. That doesn't make a single clutch "right" for everyone.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

The real benefit to us is that there are now a number of good clutches that hold a lot of power. Ten years ago there was "nothing. " Each upgrade clutch has its "features" and buyers should be aware of them. That doesn't make a single clutch "right" for everyone.

ABSOLUTELY!

 

[Huntmastr1]

Just installed

Replaced my stock clutch (252K miles) today with new Luk 05-117 from Dial-A-Clutch.

Pedal is SWEEEEET!

After a couple hundred miles tomorrow we'll see.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Replaced my stock clutch (252K miles) today with new Luk 05-117 from Dial-A-Clutch.

Pedal is SWEEEEET!

After a couple hundred miles tomorrow we'll see.

DO give it time to seat in before heavy use - mine is getting better all the time in terms of smooth engagement, and I have over 20K miles on it...

 

[LEPage]

Personnally, *I'M* sooo happy to be throwing my Luk Ceramataulic in the trash. I too thought I'd save a couple bucks, but never imagined how I would pay for it in driveability. Try starting out or backing a 30,000# combo with this bargin clutch one time & you know you screwed up! Oh, and I haven't even mentioned that in no time at all it would slip with my PMCR set on 3/2 towing in 6th gear. 500 hp? I think not.

 

[pwerwagn]

starting out or backing a 30,000# combo with this bargin clutch one time & you know you screwed up!

Actually, I have. And it works fine. Backing up it tends to be a little jerky, but manageable. Im sure the FE would do the same backing up.



I've only managed to slip mine once, and that was a 3300rpm or so clutch dump, 2nd gear, in 4wd at the strip. It slipped for a bout a second, and then hooked and chirped all 4 tires.



--Jeff

 

[Billy Diesel]

One issue not really well addressed in this thread, is some sort of feel for the real life, typical lifespan of the LUK Cerametallic. My own has been in use about 2 years and 20K miles, mostly towing, and actually seems to get better with age - but 20k is hardly enough distance to make a radical recommendation upon.

Well, mine is on it's last leg. It has been grabby from day one. In the last couple of months it would occasionally give out a big shudder as I let out the clutch, I would push the clutch back in, and then everything would be normal. Now there are pieces of spring sitting in the bell housing.



I have never towed heavy with it. I have raced some, and pulled twice with it. The second pull was in 2nd gear low, basically supporting the organization putting on the pull and not taking the sled very far down the track. I am at approximately 400hp at the rear wheels, and have been for quite some time.



Very disappointed with the clutch. I tried to save a couple hundred bucks initially, and now I get to pull my transmission again.



The clutch has been in for approximately 2 and a half years. Probably 50K miles (just a guess).



So disappointed.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Well, mine is on it's last leg.

Dunno what mileage you have on yours - but I should have included a qualifier - lifespan of clutches, like other drivetrain components - including tires - is VERY closely related to the use/abuse they must operate under!



Some guys get close to 100K miles from the same Michelin tires I only get 60K out of - some guys get less - the key is in how they are treated, and where they are driven... :-laf



Abuse brand "X", and it will fail early, just like brand "Y" will if treated the same way!

 

[CFAR]

Gary

Normally I would agree with you, but I have over 100k on my SBC FE, there is just not the amount data about the luk gold as there is about the SBC's, a lot of my miles are towing miles, never pulled with it. But I haven't always been nice either. So far so good, sure it cost me a quite a bit more, but 2 things I know, 1 if I have a problem, SBC has a problem and they are usually good about fixing them, 2 this is a proven clutch, at the time I put it in there was nothing but button clutches out there, and they didn't seem to last.

I am at 450rwhp, not all the time, I run the comp at 1/1 most of the time, or I turn that off and go with the smarty.

I hope you continue to have good luck with the luk. Hopefully I will get another 100k out of my FE.