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Chain Saw Recommendations

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3M 08880 brake cleaner replacement?

1st gen body on 2nd gen frame

First inspection revealed some oh that's not quite right but pulling the muffler closed the door. Scratchemus pistonitis and a bit of boreinflamation and we pronounced it DOA pending owners desire to keep it on life support.
If the cylinder can be cleaned up, throw a replacement piston in there. That saw doesn't deserve to be laid to rest. ;)
 
I own one of those Huskys , what a pile of junk. Hardest starting saw . Gave it a tune up and still the same problem.
 
I own one of those Huskys , what a pile of junk. Hardest starting saw . Gave it a tune up and still the same problem.
1 Ship saw to Gary to get it going. 2 Hire a personal trainer and tell him, her, or it that you want to run a Godzilla saw or hire a Gronkowski type to start it for you. 3 Successfully bid on a tract of forest to clear. 4 Line up a Franklin, a loader, and a number of trucks, depending on travel time. 5 I'll send a bag of yellow grits back with the saw in case you are eating quiche for breakfast. 6 All of the above is said in jest. This isn't: A saw can "strike" as fast as lightning. You may be one, but I haven't seen many "doods" eligible for SS that need to get up close and personal with a 3120. BE SAFE
 
I'm still learning every day and that's part of the fun of going to the shop. Early on I had to repair a Stihl chain brake either a new handle or a brake band. The R&R procedure for the brake spring was at best, pliers, pull and hope. But as I saw it, that spring wanted an old fashioned drum brake pliers tool but lots smaller. For this tool I drilled a hole into the bolt that slides down over the anchor pin. a bit of crude grinding, filing and then a spiral is filed on the bevel. You have the spring relaxed, slide the bolt over the pin, line up the entry of the spiral into the open hook and twist then angle to tool to the spring and the spring is unhooked and controlled. To replace it the scrench with the hole in the middle again and an open tapered slide again similar to a drum brake tool and you hook the anchor, stretch the spring and its hooked, rotate and remove the tool. Band aid count ZERO so far. But on some Stihl saws the handle goes too close to the anchor pin for this tool. Next scrench got a pull hook filed into it, works good but not quite as nicely as previous tool combo.

The wood handle scrench has three sides cut off and notches to rotate those pesky Husky three leaf chain brake levers. Yes, other techniques exist for this job.

The dowel is a left over from my '97 KDP job. Pushing those tank grommets into a recess deep in a Husky can be a PITA and risks damage to the grommet. Its just shaping the reduced round tip so the grommet just hangs on not too tight but it doesn't fall off. Now a bit of favorite lubaduba smeared on the bevel, push down on the grommet into the tank hole and a little circle push motion on the tool and pop goes the grommet. It was so well rec'd at work I made one for each of the other techs.

The 3120XP's fate was not in our control. I don't remember what the ticket said but likely something like it cranks but needs a plug or something. We inspect first, assess and if the job closely matches the C.S. on the ticket we proceed, if it costs a lot we call and get approval first for estimate. This saw has a short list of needs a XYZABC stuff and then the scoring on top of the other stuff.

Gary

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@GCroyle, I like the grommet tool! I'm going to fasten a couple, 1 for my and other for a buddy that works on 2-cycle. Wonder if it could be turned from a piece of aluminum?
 
@GCroyle, I like the grommet tool! I'm going to fasten a couple, 1 for my and other for a buddy that works on 2-cycle. Wonder if it could be turned from a piece of aluminum?

Got the lathe and the stock, go for it. I grabbed what was handy and free.

And I forgot this custom tool, at least in my toolbox. We had two Honda EU3000is gen's that they asked me to pull carbs and clean them. The first needed the main jet pulled and cleaned. The boss took hit trusty main jet screwdriver and rather painfully twisted it out. Not real pretty. Second gen, similar tune but when it came out I used a tip cleaner wire to gage the gap, measured the wire and that lead to me sacrificing an old Irwin #2 to a new task. I cut the tip off and filed the end down to about .032" Then it peaked my interest and I pulled the carb on MY EU3000is. That tool snapped into the jet and EASY PEASY no fuss no muss out it came, undamaged! And my carb after 6 yrs of light duty occasional RV or home use was clean and crud free. Got a Bridgeport, mill away I only had a few files.

Gary
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This came in from an industrial account, not a tree company. This model has a lot of darn good non metallic parts, AKA some kinda plastic, nylon what ever. The only non metallic exterior parts that survived was the recoil and the clutch cover. Tanks and engine case, handle, handlebar and chain brake handle all busted somewhere. Direction from shop boss was repair it. Ever wonder what happens to the blown up saw that you could pay the diagnostic fee yup it's dead or leave the carcass and forgo the $$. This was one of those find a donor and perform a transplant.

I couldn't test fire the busted up saw no way to control it while pulling. Teardown was all the way split the cases (easy on this model) and pull the piston to make sure it's viable. It was and a few hours later that MS250 lived another day. It was pretty amazing how robust that little saw is. For a homeowner and light duty work it's easy to recommend and easy to work on. The air filter cover was the only new plastic part in the job.

Pics are as rec'd, old engine in old donor case and ready to invoice.

Gary

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MIDWAY.jpg

AFTER.jpg
 
Oh boy, what to say. A favorite took some abuse this MS250 DID have an air filter but it wasn't correctly seated (when it hit my bench) into the air intake. Found some H2O in the gas mix so with the abundance of crud and some H2O just slap a carb on it, new AF and clean up the intake and it lives for more abuse and neglect for a darn fine simple home owner saw. Yes, I did pull the muffler and the rings were springy and no scoring or major carbon seen.

MS250.jpg

And this hit the bench late today for leaking oil and gas I think. But the Sr. crew wasn't in today and I have no clue what model this beast is other than it don't seem to have ANY plastic/nylon whatever parts that I've seen so far. Look at that "muffler". The bottom of the case even was worn thru at a few wear points. What a history it must have.

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From the Saw bench.

Gary
 
Good stuff! Uh, I doubt if you just slapped a carb on though. I would say you carefully and precisely installed it with the correct parts...
 
One thing I might be taking extra time with is cleaning the surgical field. So much grime I blow some off, carb spray some, towels and I keep a supply of Q tips for getting what can’t be got. But this model is so easy to work on it’s almost a slap it on. Just don’t miss the gasket(s). House rules include blowing the crud out of the tank, a new fuel filter and fuel lines on most carb work.

I’ll find out what model that old Husky is and it’s fate tomorrow.
 
028 Wood boss STIHL bought in the later 80's. Cut at least 200 cord with it. Replaced the plug ONCE as it had a small pc of carbon on it. Never again. Ran AMZ/OIL 100-1 with great results. While the other guys were choking on the blue smoke I could actually breathe.

Sold it on CL for $250 and bought a Farm Boss??? Thought it would be a lot more power but not all that impressed. Both cut good with a sharp skip tooth but get slightly dull and made it a chore to operate.
 
028 Wood boss STIHL bought in the later 80's. Cut at least 200 cord with it. Replaced the plug ONCE as it had a small pc of carbon on it. Never again. Ran AMZ/OIL 100-1 with great results. While the other guys were choking on the blue smoke I could actually breathe.

Sold it on CL for $250 and bought a Farm Boss??? Thought it would be a lot more power but not all that impressed. Both cut good with a sharp skip tooth but get slightly dull and made it a chore to operate.

The 028 was a professional series saw and the Farm Boss is a farm and ranch series saw. That could be part of the difference.

The modern equivalent of the 028 is the MS261.

In stock form the 260/261 comes with a .325 chain, but I put a 3/8” chain on mine and it cuts much better and very similar to how I recall dads 028 cutting. After a minor exhaust port the MS260 with a 3/8” saw is a great small saw.
 
Been a while and I know you're needing a new from the Saw Shop what's that! So here goes.

First up a classic Don't be this guy. Pic is of a MS250 "as returned" Cost him a used coil and a few small normal items. Yes this could have been fixed w/o replacing the coil but his trim insulation repair cost him.

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Next a nice What Is It pic. So name the tool and no a "chop saw" is not enough detail info. What is it made to do?

It had a fuel leak, carb issues and a no sparky thingy. SOMEHOW I got it running just needs a QC check run. Cover over air filter had been removed just prior to pic snap. Yeah it's big and heavy.
Guess What.jpg



Gary
 
OK I'll spill the beans. When I picked it up it was a two hander, heavy thing. Asked boss what is it. The engine is a Husqvarna 3120 (= biggest bad Husq chain saw engine) and Racine Railroad Products modified it by adding a metal cutting blade assembly and some kind of track clamp system that attaches to a railroad rail. Its a railroad rail cutoff saw. Has a sticker on it says its not a use by hand only product, must be mounted etc.

This is AFAIK current model offering info. https://www.racinerailroad.com/products/portable-gas-tools/ultra-kut-iii-saw-910196

And this looks like the one in the shop https://www.racinerailroad.com/factory-certified-used-tools/1255
 
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