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Chain Saw Recommendations
- Thread starter GCroyle
- Start Date
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Can't miss out on this one. I am also a professional tree remover. Not a logger. Climber more than anything. Most of the trees i get are the ones nobody else wants to touch. Too many power lines, over the house or the neighbors house. Typically they are big oaks as well.
Stihl or Husky is normally the question. We all have our preferences just like in our trucks. So all Huskys here. From big to little. I do use an Echo top hand trimming saw as a climber. Cheaper to replace if I for some reason launch it out of a tree. (Has happened once) Find a good saw shop, not a box store, handle the saws from both lines in the size you like and pick one. You won't be disappointed with either. I threw in two pictures of the same tree. Climbing with a 12" bar and also with a 28" bar.
Stihl or Husky is normally the question. We all have our preferences just like in our trucks. So all Huskys here. From big to little. I do use an Echo top hand trimming saw as a climber. Cheaper to replace if I for some reason launch it out of a tree. (Has happened once) Find a good saw shop, not a box store, handle the saws from both lines in the size you like and pick one. You won't be disappointed with either. I threw in two pictures of the same tree. Climbing with a 12" bar and also with a 28" bar.
Stihl
Another vote for STIHL. I have an 034 with a 16"bar that I bought from my grandfather about fifteen years ago and he purchased it new in the 80's.
The only thing I've had to put into this saw besides bar/chains is new rope and starter pawls.
This saw is my 2nd favorite possesion after my truck!
Another vote for STIHL. I have an 034 with a 16"bar that I bought from my grandfather about fifteen years ago and he purchased it new in the 80's.
The only thing I've had to put into this saw besides bar/chains is new rope and starter pawls.
This saw is my 2nd favorite possesion after my truck!
One of them followed me home.
Bloomy, that takes training, skill and you gotta a be a brick short of a full load too! I couldn't do it.
Went to Darlington (SC) Chain Saw. Talked to the owner, he had Stihl, Husky and Jonsered. Looked at the Husky. They didn't have any mid-range saws Stihl saws on display, but he had about two dozen stacked by the door just off the UPS truck, picked out a Stihl MS290 Farm Boss and checked it out. So I got the one w/o leather seats and GPS, but it is the #1 selling Stihl, he had at least 6+ in the stacks that I looked at. Set it up with the 20" bar, started it up, now it's at home. How refreshing to have a factory sharp chain, wow! I thought I was pretty good with my filing fixture, still think I am. It cut real nice, still getting used to it. I like the common control for ignition and choke.
I tore the Poulan down, the piston is scuffed and the bore is nasty, but the bottom end looks great, wet with oil, no issues noticed, so now if I get crazier, might consider trying to repair it myself as a challenge. I have owned and worked on a lot of 2 strokes, first one that I have been responsible for that scuffed a piston. Spent 3 years late 70's at a golf course working on HD 2 stroke golf carts, lots of stories, 128:1 oil ratio, factory, it worked great, and one story about a HD truckster that ran for a coulpe of years on straight gas, no lube, longer story.
Got more splitting to do and more cleanup.
I appreciate all of your input, nice to get feedback thats not from a salesman.
Bloomy, that takes training, skill and you gotta a be a brick short of a full load too! I couldn't do it.
Went to Darlington (SC) Chain Saw. Talked to the owner, he had Stihl, Husky and Jonsered. Looked at the Husky. They didn't have any mid-range saws Stihl saws on display, but he had about two dozen stacked by the door just off the UPS truck, picked out a Stihl MS290 Farm Boss and checked it out. So I got the one w/o leather seats and GPS, but it is the #1 selling Stihl, he had at least 6+ in the stacks that I looked at. Set it up with the 20" bar, started it up, now it's at home. How refreshing to have a factory sharp chain, wow! I thought I was pretty good with my filing fixture, still think I am. It cut real nice, still getting used to it. I like the common control for ignition and choke.
I tore the Poulan down, the piston is scuffed and the bore is nasty, but the bottom end looks great, wet with oil, no issues noticed, so now if I get crazier, might consider trying to repair it myself as a challenge. I have owned and worked on a lot of 2 strokes, first one that I have been responsible for that scuffed a piston. Spent 3 years late 70's at a golf course working on HD 2 stroke golf carts, lots of stories, 128:1 oil ratio, factory, it worked great, and one story about a HD truckster that ran for a coulpe of years on straight gas, no lube, longer story.
Got more splitting to do and more cleanup.
I appreciate all of your input, nice to get feedback thats not from a salesman.
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Lets hear some stories. My father bought his first saw in 1954, a McCulloch. He ran them for a long time intermixed with some Homelite saws. In the 70's he switched to Sthils and Huskys and ran both in the 80's. They are both good saws.
1st Saw
My Mom bought Dad a Sears long about late 60's. we lived in norther Ohio, had about 3 acres 1/2 of it woods, we had a nice fireplace. We cut Maple, Oak, Cherry and Sassafras for the fireplace. I used to pull logs with a 1964 vintage Cub Cadet 10HP to a cutting spot. Both were hard working tools. The Sears would beat you up, heavy, loud and manual oiler. The Cub still lives, engine has NEVER been out of the frame.
Fast forward to Memphis TN, about 2001. I put a carb kit in the Sears, that helped a lot with starting etc. Made a mistake and left it outside, that was the last I ever saw the Sears. Never went inside the saw mechanically, just outside repairs. I think the thief regretted stealing that saw.
But the Sears brings up a side story about oil ratio. I think it was like 16 or 24:1 or something, didn't run for beans, too much oil. About 1975 or so, started racing Husky's in hare scrambles, 2 hour events. don't remember the exact ratio, but it was somewhere between 1-2 ozs. oil (64-128:1) gallon, synthetic as I remember first oil supply was from a Saab dealer for the 99 I think, we didn't use no bean oil that settled out, used some of the bike racing mix in the saw, it NEVER ran better, we ran it for YEARS on the lighter ratio. I set my Mom up with a Jacobsen commercial 2 stroke self propelled, ran for 10+ years until she hit a steel pin and bent the crank, ran great on high ratio. More to the story does exist from Husky piston ring wear vs. oil ratio.
My Mom bought Dad a Sears long about late 60's. we lived in norther Ohio, had about 3 acres 1/2 of it woods, we had a nice fireplace. We cut Maple, Oak, Cherry and Sassafras for the fireplace. I used to pull logs with a 1964 vintage Cub Cadet 10HP to a cutting spot. Both were hard working tools. The Sears would beat you up, heavy, loud and manual oiler. The Cub still lives, engine has NEVER been out of the frame.
Fast forward to Memphis TN, about 2001. I put a carb kit in the Sears, that helped a lot with starting etc. Made a mistake and left it outside, that was the last I ever saw the Sears. Never went inside the saw mechanically, just outside repairs. I think the thief regretted stealing that saw.
But the Sears brings up a side story about oil ratio. I think it was like 16 or 24:1 or something, didn't run for beans, too much oil. About 1975 or so, started racing Husky's in hare scrambles, 2 hour events. don't remember the exact ratio, but it was somewhere between 1-2 ozs. oil (64-128:1) gallon, synthetic as I remember first oil supply was from a Saab dealer for the 99 I think, we didn't use no bean oil that settled out, used some of the bike racing mix in the saw, it NEVER ran better, we ran it for YEARS on the lighter ratio. I set my Mom up with a Jacobsen commercial 2 stroke self propelled, ran for 10+ years until she hit a steel pin and bent the crank, ran great on high ratio. More to the story does exist from Husky piston ring wear vs. oil ratio.
I was just a little kid in 54, but I did hear nothing but McCulloch and Homelite even in the late 60's. Now Sthil is the way to go. I've not had experience with Husky.
jray
TDR MEMBER
I bought a Husquvarna 455 rancher new in off Ebay 2 years ago. It has an 18" bar, it starts easily, is somewhat light weight and it sure does cut. I loaned it to my father for use on his farm and his workers actually prefer to use it over a Stil saw that he owns.
If I had to, I'd definitely buy the Husky Rancher again.
If I had to, I'd definitely buy the Husky Rancher again.
jgillott
TDR MEMBER
I took a lot of heat from a know-it-all on a wood heat forum that I go to on occation for admiting this, but I take my saws back to the dealer a few times a season to have him go over the chains. Sure I run over them with the file regularly, but I just can't get them anywhere near as nice as he does. And since he's located literally 5 minutes from here, I find it worth the trip.
Dl5treez
Super Moderator
It's very common out here for the professionals to rotate 20-30 chains in and out of the saw shops to get sharpened... also they run a few bars in rotation as well. Files are good for a tune up but a grinder is the only real way back to a true tooth.
A good electric sharpener costs pretty good money, and for a few buck per chain to have the sharpened by a "pro" it's well worth it. JMHO.
I used to eyeball them, handheld filing. But a few years ago I bought an Oregon filing jig, clamps on the bar, controls the angles pretty darn good, big improvement over eyeballing.
I'm not in the logging trade and don't get paid for my efforts, so I don't have a spare chain situation, chance of fixing the Poulan does exist if I can get the parts at a reasonable price, then I'd have a spare saw. Our issue here is storm damage. This area is in the path of hurricanes, it has happened here. We have a LOT of Long Leaf Pine or Southern Yellow Pine, grows tall and straight shedding the lower limbs as it grows, saw a couple of them on houses yesterday from a local t-storm damage. These trees can snap in the trunk and break.
My backyard had a few oak hardheads to split, sections that have a limb junction in them, hard to split with wedges, sledge and maul.
No comments or takers on the ratio discussion yet?
How about repairing the Poulan that scuffed a piston, no opinions as to why it happened? It would be fairly easy labor wise, just need a bit of luck.
I'm not in the logging trade and don't get paid for my efforts, so I don't have a spare chain situation, chance of fixing the Poulan does exist if I can get the parts at a reasonable price, then I'd have a spare saw. Our issue here is storm damage. This area is in the path of hurricanes, it has happened here. We have a LOT of Long Leaf Pine or Southern Yellow Pine, grows tall and straight shedding the lower limbs as it grows, saw a couple of them on houses yesterday from a local t-storm damage. These trees can snap in the trunk and break.
My backyard had a few oak hardheads to split, sections that have a limb junction in them, hard to split with wedges, sledge and maul.
No comments or takers on the ratio discussion yet?
How about repairing the Poulan that scuffed a piston, no opinions as to why it happened? It would be fairly easy labor wise, just need a bit of luck.
Gary, I agree with you using the jig for hand filing. Just make sure you have the correct angles. The Oregon chain teeth have compound angles. I am not a Pro that depends on high volume output for a living. A single chain with the filing jig has lasted me for decades. Probably could use a new chain in the future. May replace the bar also, if I get back into heating full time with wood. However, your issue with clearing storm damage may be worth having a spare chain fer yer saw, just in case. GregH
I have my dads jonsered 49sp that he bought in 1978. It still start on the third pull no matter how long it has set on the shelf. I would buy another jonsered in a heartbeat. Jeff
STeichert
TDR MEMBER
I'm not sure if they have parts for Poulan, but they do have lots of rebuild kits and chainsaw parts at Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's. I buy all my chains, bars, files, etc. from them, and they have very good prices.
I do all of my own sharpening. In the field its files for quick tuning. I haven't ever had problems (since i learned how to) getting what I consider factory sharp chains. It certainly takes a lot of practice though. Most of the time it is faster to swap out a chain than it is to sharpen in the field. Most sharpening I reserve for boring evenings with nothing else too do. It takes a long time to sharpen chains with drive links from 72-158 whether they are a skip sequence or not.
If you have problems hand sharpening, check to see if you are using stihl chains. Notoriously HARD and difficult (and expensive)to sharpen unless you are using their files. Not a knock on stihl. If I owned stihl saws I still would not run their chains. Oregon chain is a lil soft, especially if you are cutting dirty wood, or hard wood. Carlton and WoodsmanPRO chains are my personal choices.
I started doing tree removal because I love the climbing. A lil weird perhaps, but I love it. Started when I was 17 using a Husky 51.
Saws that I have now are an Echo CS360 Top-Hand, Husky 51 that was my first Husky purchase in 1992. One blown motor from another person running straight gas through it, but still works good since a rebuild. That was 1997. Husky 268 (20" and 24" bars), Husky 575 (28" and 32" bars), Husky 395 (36"and 50" bars) an Echo power pruner. One Husky 242 went for a small flight and did not survive.
With the exception of climbing I wouldn't entertain any saw under 4. 5hp for ground work and nothing shorter than 20" bars. Maybe I'm lazy now? The weight of the saws was never an issue as opposed to time to get through the logs with one pass. Running 5-7hp saws kind of spoils you when it comes to power. :-laf
If you have problems hand sharpening, check to see if you are using stihl chains. Notoriously HARD and difficult (and expensive)to sharpen unless you are using their files. Not a knock on stihl. If I owned stihl saws I still would not run their chains. Oregon chain is a lil soft, especially if you are cutting dirty wood, or hard wood. Carlton and WoodsmanPRO chains are my personal choices.
I started doing tree removal because I love the climbing. A lil weird perhaps, but I love it. Started when I was 17 using a Husky 51.
Saws that I have now are an Echo CS360 Top-Hand, Husky 51 that was my first Husky purchase in 1992. One blown motor from another person running straight gas through it, but still works good since a rebuild. That was 1997. Husky 268 (20" and 24" bars), Husky 575 (28" and 32" bars), Husky 395 (36"and 50" bars) an Echo power pruner. One Husky 242 went for a small flight and did not survive.
With the exception of climbing I wouldn't entertain any saw under 4. 5hp for ground work and nothing shorter than 20" bars. Maybe I'm lazy now? The weight of the saws was never an issue as opposed to time to get through the logs with one pass. Running 5-7hp saws kind of spoils you when it comes to power. :-laf
Dl5treez
Super Moderator
Oil mix.....
50:1 and use either Stihl or Husqvarna oil. I have more experience with the Stihl oil, but the Husky oil is fine as well.
No more, no less on ratio. Run minimum 91 octane gasoline in a chainsaw, up to about 93. No need for more unless you're highly modified, and any less can cause damage to the powerhead.
Don't run 2 stroke outboard oil or motorcycle oil... they aren't designed to run at the higher temperatures a chainsaw runs at and will break down. Some of the ultra-high performance "hot saw" guys run Maxxima synthetic bike oil, but for a "woods port" tuned saw or just a stock saw it doesn't work as well as the standard Stihl or Husky stuff. Both Stihl and Husky make synthetic oil as well which is very good for 99. 9% of chainsaws running today.
Don't use mixed gas older than 3 weeks. The oil will separate from the gasoline and the mix won't be consistent. Only mix what you can burn up within a 7 day period is how we do it.
I shop at Madsen's. Good folks. Their website has a TON of info on it about saws.
Welcome To Madsen's Online
50:1 and use either Stihl or Husqvarna oil. I have more experience with the Stihl oil, but the Husky oil is fine as well.
No more, no less on ratio. Run minimum 91 octane gasoline in a chainsaw, up to about 93. No need for more unless you're highly modified, and any less can cause damage to the powerhead.
Don't run 2 stroke outboard oil or motorcycle oil... they aren't designed to run at the higher temperatures a chainsaw runs at and will break down. Some of the ultra-high performance "hot saw" guys run Maxxima synthetic bike oil, but for a "woods port" tuned saw or just a stock saw it doesn't work as well as the standard Stihl or Husky stuff. Both Stihl and Husky make synthetic oil as well which is very good for 99. 9% of chainsaws running today.
Don't use mixed gas older than 3 weeks. The oil will separate from the gasoline and the mix won't be consistent. Only mix what you can burn up within a 7 day period is how we do it.
I shop at Madsen's. Good folks. Their website has a TON of info on it about saws.
Welcome To Madsen's Online
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Bloomy,
Interesting, you sound like a race car driver giving a tire comparison report except, you are doing it with SAW CHAINS! any chance of posting a picture of you and that 50" saw making chips? I never thought about the hardness of a chain, the previous saw chains all filed quite nicely, but again, it was hobby cutting, not feed the family cutting.
Dan,
What do you do? You have a lot of insight about the topic too. I never gave it much thought about that old bottle of Penzoil that showed just about every 2 stroke on it there is. With the Poulan that died, I was using Poulan Weedeater oil from the local WM.
We relied on the mixture and needle position to control engine temperature on the off road racing Husky bikes in the 70's, you had to know how to read a plug and predict the day.
Thanks for the links, I'll look into them.
I'm a bit skeptical about any oil that could settle out, I would consider that a bad trait. But I have never looked for it either.
I just checked my manual for the MS290, 89 octane. It states that lower octane can increase engine temperatures, leading to piston seizures. OOPS! hot day, hi RPM, full bar cut on large log, exhaust blowing forward into log nowhere to go. Possible near perfect storm for a seizure, crap. Looks like the Stihl gets it's own gas, the last batch goes into the Cub Cadet, it'l eat it just fine.
Interesting, you sound like a race car driver giving a tire comparison report except, you are doing it with SAW CHAINS! any chance of posting a picture of you and that 50" saw making chips? I never thought about the hardness of a chain, the previous saw chains all filed quite nicely, but again, it was hobby cutting, not feed the family cutting.
Dan,
What do you do? You have a lot of insight about the topic too. I never gave it much thought about that old bottle of Penzoil that showed just about every 2 stroke on it there is. With the Poulan that died, I was using Poulan Weedeater oil from the local WM.
We relied on the mixture and needle position to control engine temperature on the off road racing Husky bikes in the 70's, you had to know how to read a plug and predict the day.
Thanks for the links, I'll look into them.
I'm a bit skeptical about any oil that could settle out, I would consider that a bad trait. But I have never looked for it either.
I just checked my manual for the MS290, 89 octane. It states that lower octane can increase engine temperatures, leading to piston seizures. OOPS! hot day, hi RPM, full bar cut on large log, exhaust blowing forward into log nowhere to go. Possible near perfect storm for a seizure, crap. Looks like the Stihl gets it's own gas, the last batch goes into the Cub Cadet, it'l eat it just fine.
. GregH
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Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
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