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Now that I am so paranoid about all the injector problems I plan on doing all of this over the weekend. I have one question: Can this be done with the wheel well liner still on the truck? I just want to know how long I will be freezing my butt off :{ Thanks in advance
 
HOBrian said:
Now that I am so paranoid about all the injector problems I plan on doing all of this over the weekend. I have one question: Can this be done with the wheel well liner still on the truck? I just want to know how long I will be freezing my butt off :{ Thanks in advance





I did mine without removing anything...



They actually face towards the center of the truck, not the outside... took me all of 5 minutes once I found the barbs.



steved
 
Gee! what a tizzy 2 vents cause

Sone after buying my 03 I went to install an axillary fuel tank, 75 gallon, I just run a line from it right down into the bittom tank at gravity flow. At the time I found the one front vent and discovered I could blow into it but not suck out(or vice versa)so I run a hose from that front vent to an air filter up above my axillary tank. After a mounth I noticed some small leak at the back of the lower fuel tank, then I found that barbed vent also, so I run both vents together and one line up above the axillary tank. It seams I never get any water in my fuel drain canister.

Gee! what a tizzy 2 vents cause! But this is not the biggest problem with the Dodge fuel system. At 180,000 I replaced the first lift pump, at 450,000 I replaced the second one, then I put one in the tank, Now at 555,500 two weeks ago I began to lose power with 1/3 in the bottom tank. I made it 4 miles and filled up, then no problem, But I knew there is a problem down there. Yesterday I installed the new Pureflow Tecknoligies Air Dog fuel system at 699$ I had to drop the bottom tank to do it, so I had to get the fuel up into the upper tank so I hot wired the intank fuel pump. I used a clear vinal tubbing to pump it so when the bottom tank got down to 1/3 level millions of bubbles began to go up the line, and the flow droped to a dribble. When I took the in tank sending unit out I saw the screen at the bottom was just about plugged. But where did those bubbles come from? Now I have a real water seperator and bigger filter I hope it lasts for 500,000 more
 
Works for me

brods said:
:cool: keep us informed.





I started to take my cap apart to modify it, but decided to get a spare to mess with instead. I'd like to keep the pressure relief part while allowing no restriction to incoming air.



Anyhow, can anyone come up with a reason not to just cap the ports and use a vented cap?



I pluged the OEM tank and drilled a small hole in the fill cap. Works great and I have no extra hoses or filters flopping around. I recently added an eighty gallon aux tank and used the gravity fill kit offered by Northern Tool. The system works great with the aux tank keeping the oem tank full. When I look into the OEM fill neck I see that fuel is level with the vent tube. The Aux tank has its own vent with a roll over check valve.
 
Fireman said:
Ryan,



I don't know, but the '05s are coming with a short hose attached to them from the factory. How would it be "closed off" ? Anyway all that gunk came from somewhere, and at the moment that is the most reasonable thing I've found.



Fireman





I was installing the body lift on my truck a couple weeks ago and my 2007 has nothing on that white nipple on the top rear of the tank. I need to check it to see if it is "open" and if so I am going to shut it down.
 
HOBrian said:
Now that I am so paranoid about all the injector problems I plan on doing all of this over the weekend. I have one question: Can this be done with the wheel well liner still on the truck? I just want to know how long I will be freezing my butt off :{ Thanks in advance



If you need to see better, dropping the spare tire might help, and be easier than pulling the wheel well liner.
 
steved said:
I thought the longbed tanks had two vents and the shortbed tanks had a single vent??



steved
2005 Quad cab SWB: 2 vents. I just capped them off and pulled the little spring (the one that allows some vacuum to build before letting air in) out of the fuel cap.
 
Hmnn, this is interesting.

I have a 2005 quad cab (not mega), short bed 4x4.

On reading another recent post which links to this post, I came here.

I just walked outside and looked at my fuel tank,

and I can see the unconnected nipple. On my truck, I can see it

by leaning into the rear wheelwell with a flashlight.

The nipple is unconnected, dirty, no hose on it.

(the nipple on mine is black plastic, not white as in other pics on here)



Not sure if my truck is considered short frame or long frame

because it's a quad cab with short bed. Same vehicle was

available with quad cab and 8 ft box, which is longer frame.

(The mega cabs used the longer frame and short bed. )



I took a piece of solid copper wire and stuck it in the end of

the open nipple to see if it was internally plugged. Nope.

I can stick the wire far down into the nipple.

(I recall another poster stating he could blow into both vents easily)



This begs another question, hope someone can help with comment here-

Like others, I don't like standing at the pump topping off for 10 minutes

as the tank nears full. I thought this was because the vent

connected to the filler neck is at a lower spot in the fuel tank.

(you can see that in some other pics posted here).

Indeed, the unconnected vent I mention above is at the highest spot

in the tank. So here's my question-



If that vent is indeed open, wouldn't it accomplish the desired venting ?

(Then why do I still experience the slow topping off ?)



I was going to install the aftermarket vent kit.

That kit routes tubing to the filler neck vent, which would solve

the dirt contamination issue. But if the present open vent nipple

is already there, I don't see how installing the aftermarket vent

kit would be any different to cure the topping off issue.



Sure hope someone else with expertise can comment !!
 
venting.............

That little hose barb on top of the tank is not big enough to vent the tank. . but it can let water and dirt in with temp change... .
 
I agree completely with MR. K.



Put a couple of feet of 1/4" hose and a 99 cent filter on each of those roll-over valves for piece of mind.



Do the vent kit to save time and aggrivation every time you fill up.



FWIW, the vent kit does relocate the large vent hose to the highest point on the tank. That hose is pretty big... about 3/4" ID, if I recall. There's a big difference in how much air (foam, really) can get out through that hose, compared with the two 1/4" roll-over valves.



Bob
 
Hmnn, this is interesting.

I have a 2005 quad cab (not mega), short bed 4x4.



Not sure if my truck is considered short frame or long frame

because it's a quad cab with short bed. Same vehicle was

available with quad cab and 8 ft box, which is longer frame.



...



If that vent is indeed open, wouldn't it accomplish the desired venting ?

(Then why do I still experience the slow topping off ?)



The fuel tank is different between long bed and short bed, not frame per se.



In addition to the small size of the 1/4" vent as already pointed out, these have a rollover valve in them. So when the fuel gets up to these valves, they close, preventing fuel and air from escaping.



#ad


There is a picture of this in my photo gallery
 
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Thanks to all the TDR members that brought this problem & solutions to light. I spent my $12 at NAPA today ($6 for the hose, $3 for a filter but I took it hard paying $3 for a plastic Tee).

I went ahead & changed my FF-its been a year & an alarming 2500 miles, but she was spotless.

I was a little concerned due to the amount of Zeibart sprayed up on top of the tank & on those fittings.

Not to keen on the drilling the hole in the fill cap. I would imagine water could still get in, especially when washing.

Hope everyone checks their trucks for this--DC should send us all checks for $12.
 
Imho, both the hoses with filters or a vented cap will work.



For several reasons already listed, I prefer capping the tank vents and modifying the fuel cap, but I would not recommending drilling a hole in the cap. Drilling a hole in the body of the fuel cap (the white part) may allow fuel to spill out in the unfortunate event of a rollover.



I disassembled the cap (which is a PITA) and removed only the small spring which allows some vacuum to build in the tank for the gasoline emission control system. With this spring removed, air can enter and exit the tank freely. I taped a cup of water to the cap and turned it over to see if, without the spring, the little poppet would prevent fuel leaking out. It did, so I am satisfied the rollover protection is still there.



I have inspected the inside of the cap after a few thousand miles for any signs of dirt or moisture and have found none, it was spotless. If there were any signs I was going to put a small piece of air cleaner foam inside the cap to act as a filter. I see no need for this at this time.



I also would like to thank Fireman and all the others who helped point out a potential problem. Bottom line is to do something to protect your truck from sucking water and dirt in those tank vents!! :cool:
 
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