Here I am

Check your fuel tank Today!

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Recalls H46 and K01

Power Steering O-ring repair documented

Status
Not open for further replies.
2nd Generation TOO!

Guys I missed this thread when it started, Thanks Fireman.



I just did the Vulcan modification and having the entire fuel sender module out of the tank I made this observation right away. There is a single 'roll over' vent nipple that is wide open. I took steps on my own as I realized this was just like a 'gasser' fuel tank system and was not addressed in the diesel configuration.

BRohloff... had the right approach... . overkill but, very good!



I'm calling Eric Cordova at Vulcan on Monday so he can place this information in his instructions just for the guys doing the Vulcan mod can also pay attention to the 'air-breathing nipple'.



BTW... . it is a roll-over type system because I turned the sender module upside down and put my lips on the nipple and SUCKED on it! Yep... it don't suck upside down. I'm real scientific when I do things :-laf



The 2nd Gen short bed Quad-cab only has a 36 gallon tank and the vent-nipple is not in a shallow pocket however; deep water or heavy splashing in water would allow water to enter the fuel tank.



TDR is a good place guys :cool:



William
 
Glad to hear it is 36 Gal. Always thought it was 35. Always hoping somebody will come up with a larger tank for short bed Q-Cabs. The doughnut affair that fits between the spare and the floor I don't like. Two tanks can be a problem I have a Topper as they call it around here (top cap may be the right name) so an in bed tank is out. I watch my odometer and try not to go over 400 miles without fuling. Running out of fuel can ruin your day. Dodge went out and got the cheapest piece of junk for a guage that they could find. Why does that have a familiar ring to it. It could be a female guage. It can't make up its mind.
 
Year/model

Fireman said:
If you look at the pictures that Dean posted you can see all the dirt that settled on and around the nipple, you can also see the white rings that I believe were made by water around the top of the depression. Thanks for the help Dean.



Lightman, that's a good idea. I don't know how much could go up the hose, but it doesn't hurt anything to add a filter.



I don't know if this horse is dead or not, y"all wanna keep whupin' it ? :D



Fireman



You and Dean are running '03s, aren't you, Fireman?



Jere
 
This problem is not new. When I bought my 91. 5 in July 91, I had to fill up the tank from the DEALER! I was accustomed to filling up to the neck to check fuel mileage. While doing this I had fuel running all over the deck, before the nozzle kicked off. WHAT??? I thought I had a cracked tank. I drove directly back to Christopher Dodge and told them of the problem. They said there was nothing wrong! When I got it home I found the offending tank (Vent?) opening at a fitting. I purchased a couple of brass fittings, some hose and copper tube and a small inline gasoline filter. I hooked everything up and bent the copper tube like a hook and looped it around the filler neck under the fender. No problems since. I dont do business with Christopher Dodge any more. (Long Story) GregH.
 
Just checked my '06 3500 QC SWB w/34 gallon tank. There is a fitting at each end of the tank. Both are in depressions. Both have about a foot of fuel line attached from the factory.



It looks like I'm in the market for a couple cheep, inline fuel filters.
 
robertyoke said:
I capped mine just in case, took about 5 min.
I always have pressure/vacuum when I release my fuel cap. #ad

-robert

The rollover valves act as a vent to let air in the tank as the fuel level drops. By putting a cap on the valves you have created a vacuum in the tank, and air rushes in when you remove the main fuel cap.

Instead of a cap, use a short piece of 1/4" fuel hose with a fuel filter. Or better yet, run hose from both valves to a tee, and then installed just one filter.

Here is a link to a picture of my setup (I have a fuel filter on the end of the 1/4" hose that is not shown in this picture).

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=24158&width=0
 
MFalkinham said:
The rollover valves act as a vent to let air in the tank as the fuel level drops. By putting a cap on the valves you have created a vacuum in the tank, and air rushes in when you remove the main fuel cap.



Instead of a cap, use a short piece of 1/4" fuel hose with a fuel filter. Or better yet, run hose from both valves to a tee, and then installed just one filter.



I have had this situation since the truck was new, now with 48k I just capped the tank valves. I check and see what happens.

-robert
 
robertyoke said:
I have had this situation since the truck was new, now with 48k I just capped the tank valves. I check and see what happens.

-robert
:cool: keep us informed.



Stant (fuel caps) list the same cap for the hemi as for the CTD. If you use the links to their web site in my previous post you'll see the cap is designed for gasoline OBDII engine controls. This means it prevents escape of vapors and allows some vacuum to build up in the tank before allowing air in. Obviously it can't allow too much vacuum or the tank would just collapse.



I can't imagine why DCX didn't just cap the ports and use a vented fuel cap. Maybe stocking two different fuel caps costs more than two short pieces of hose? (on edit: looks like Stant lists the same #10838 fuel cap for everything from the Viper to the RAM for the 2005 MY, so I guess stocking, tracking and installing a different cap just for the CTD would be quite expensive) Not only would a vented cap be easier, the cap is protected from direct exposure to dirt and water in its own little compartment and best of all it is high up, allowing one to drive through water almost as deep as the cap without worrying about any low hanging hoses allowing water in.



I started to take my cap apart to modify it, but decided to get a spare to mess with instead. I'd like to keep the pressure relief part while allowing no restriction to incoming air.



Anyhow, can anyone come up with a reason not to just cap the ports and use a vented cap?
 
Last edited:
Anyhow, can anyone come up with a reason not to just cap the ports and use with a vented cap?[/QUOTE]



That would seem to be a reasonable solution if its compatible with the computer system, I think if you don't screw the cap on tight it will light up a symbol on the insturment panel, guess thats called throwing a code?
 
WMcGuire said:
That would seem to be a reasonable solution if its compatible with the computer system, I think if you don't screw the cap on tight it will light up a symbol on the insturment panel, guess thats called throwing a code?
That would be an issue for the gassers with their vapor recovery system. The diesel tank is open to atmosphere, so no codes.
 
When I drove/owned semis the caps were vented to keep from having a vaccume build up. Typical set up was two 100 gal tanks (one on each side) with a hose running between the two tanks supported by a metal bar. I never heard vaccume or pressure when I would remove a fuel cap. When shutting down for the night filling the tanks with fuel was a good idea. The cool night air on the outside of 1/2 or 1/4 full tank with warm air inside the tank would cause condensation (the return fuel line warms the inside of the tank) which would end up on the bottom. A lot of drivers would say that blankety blank truck stop has water in their fuel after they wound up on the side of the road changing fuel filters if they had one. If not they would remove it pour the water out and put it back on only to go a few miles and suck up more water from the bottom of the tank and be shut down again. The solution was to put drain valves on the bottom underside of both tanks and open them until the water quit running and fuel started coming out. There is a pipe plug in the bottom of every tank so that a valve can be installed. When done every morning before starting out there would be no problems. Our Rams have a drain valve on our fuel filters and it is a good idea to drain a small amount into an old glass jar and check for water occasionally. I hope an understanding of condensation helps somebody avoid a potential problem. At different times of the year putting your truck to bed with a small amount of fuel in the tank, condensation, if any, will vary. Getting to know your truck is essential. Diesels do require more attention, but for me it is worth it. -- email address removed --
 
Last edited by a moderator:
brods said:
:cool: keep us informed.



Stant (fuel caps) list the same cap for the hemi as for the CTD.



This means it prevents escape of vapors and allows some vacuum to build up in the tank before allowing air in. Obviously it can't allow too much vacuum or the tank would just collapse.





Even with the vents wide open on my truck, there is still some residual vaccuum built up by the time I need to fill up... I am not 100% confident that these "fittings" are completely open, and seem to have some sort of pressure holding ability... I know they will flow in both directions, but they seemed to hold some residual pressures...



steved
 
RE: vents, why couldnt a tube be run from the tank vents to a tap into the air duct between the air cleaner and the intercooler? any fumes would just be sucked into the engine, assuming the rollover valve is working no liquids could be sucked in???
 
Did it.........

I blocked the lower vent with a 1/4 " bolt , 4" piece of 1/4 fuel line,and 2 hose clamps... on the upper vent I attached a 2 1/2 foot piece of 1/4 fuel line ran it out by the filler neck and attached a 1/4 fuel filter and attached another 3 1/2" line to the filter then looped it up by the the plastic filler neck housing and back down along side the filler tube where the new lines and filter now are. Then took the the end of the 1/4" line and shoved it into the hole in the frame (drier & cleaner) Used black plastic wire ties to secure everything..... works great ... I used a 1/4 20, 1 1/2" bolt with threads only 1/2 way up on the bolt . . attached the filter I used wire ties but not on the tank... ... total cost was less than $10 ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... oh wow what a deal... ... ... ... ... .....
 
WMcGuire said:
RE: vents, why couldnt a tube be run from the tank vents to a tap into the air duct between the air cleaner and the intercooler? any fumes would just be sucked into the engine, assuming the rollover valve is working no liquids could be sucked in???



Possibility of runaway? Remote, but possible. :eek:



Ryan
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top