checking the Getrag

[1stgen4evr]

I have had a number of PMs regarding the getrag and how one might diagnose various problems that do occur.



To that end I would like to have as many as possible join in this thread and offer additional advise.



This is what I have suggested to others:



Have you run the transmission with low lube? Always have the extra qt?



After a visual check of the transmission to see if there are obvious external problems, an internal check can be done without opening anything. Use a hard plastic drink cup and while stopped (engine running) and then while driving, touch the (empty) cup to the shift stick knob. The various sounds that the transmission make will be amplified by the megaphone of the cup. You may not know what all you are hearing but what you hear will be loud enough to make a preliminary judgment as to looking deeper. It is helpful to have a 'good' transmission to listen to for reference. Does the sound you notice become greater in a particular gear? ( I can hear the injection pump).



I would note that sounds from a bad ujoint or from the differential can be telegraphed to the stick and cause confusion. These of course will not be heard when stopped.



If you have concern after this brief check, open the side covers on the transmission and look at the gears and syncros. The gears should be mirror bright with no evidence of scuffing what-so-ever. You can see the front portion of the gears QUITE well and with a flashlight and mirror can see the back pretty good.



One of the major causes of failure on the Getrag is the front countershaft bearing. Because of the design of the OD, this bearing is always loaded with the exception of the brief time the transmission is in fourth. If this bearing is worn/failing, the countershaft will show movement fore and aft. You can determine this by prying the countershaft fore and aft. If it moves at all, you have a problem. The countershaft bearings are 'preloaded' and there should be NO decernable movement. Very minor movement may be corrected by resetting the preload. My transmission has 425k miles and has never had a real rebuild but it has been out and reshimmed on three occasions.



From the posts I have read on the fwd trucks, the getrag would require countershaft bearing replacement at a shorter interval than for the twd trucks. The transmission and transfer case are cumbersome and I understand that no one wants to take them out for the fun of it but if the system is maintained according to a pre-need schedule, the getrag will wear the engine out on the fwd without the expense of a 4500 or 5600. The price of a transmission jack is far less than the cost of a 4500. This is probably too long now so will stop.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[dpuckett]

Good info, James. Maybe this, or something similar can become a sticky if we get enough good info and tips. Speakin of tips, I like the one about the plastic sup on the end of the shifter.



I have had 5 Getrags, and none of them long enough to have any problems with them (hey, it aint my fault I get offered $1000-2000 more than I paid for the truck). My current one wont stay in 1st gear if you let up on the pedal (go from "load" to float"). But I hardly use 1st, so I dont worry about. Once I get moving with a load, if it pops out, it's time for 2nd, and then I have no problems. Do wish it was a double overdrive, what with my 4. 10 gears and all.



My gears were all bright and shiny when I last had the transmission out- I redid all the gaskets to fix the leaks, both engine and transmission. My truck had 240K on it when I got it, so I'd venture that the last 45K are the only miles it has seen with the extra qt in the transmission.



Daniel

 

[CGauthier]

Upping this here great thread... this thread should be a sticky dedicated to the getrag If anyone does this getrag check could you please post some pics?

C'mon guys, if anyone has anything to add to this please do so... we can never know enough about the getrag... and if we can keep that thing alive that will give us plenty of $$$ to save for other stuff If ya know what i mean



Carl G

 

[JShawver]

Time to change the gear lube.. What's the RIGHT stuff??

I have left it longer than I should have, but No time, or place, etc...

Now I am ready... what is the best lube for the Getrag... .

Way early on an old timer showed me about threading a 45 deg street pipe fitting into the fill hole... and then when I jack up the right side of the truck to fill the trany... I usually manage to spill less... and then the plug goes right into the end of the fitting... Thanks J

 

[1stgen4evr]

Lube for the getrag

Well I know for sure that no one will agree with me on this but I have posted this before and no one has shot me in the dark so this is my two cents worth.



I had some trouble with my getrag at about 125k miles. (Self inflicted problem that I won't go into. ) When I had it open, I felt that there was some evidence of insufficient film strength and possible gear damage on the overdrive gear set. Having heard all the negative talk on the getrag, I didn't really know just what to do about it. We had used synthetic lube since the truck was new and while we have always used the truck pretty hard, it wasn't what you would call doging it. The synthetic lube seemed awfully thin to me and I elected to refill with 85aw gear lube. If the transmission had composite syncros in it, that would have ruined them. As far as I know, unless the syncros have been replaced, the getrag came from the factory with simple bronze syncro rings. With the info from some of the other TDR members, I am convinced now that the getrag got a bum rap. There were unresolved problems that Dodge knew about and didn't correct across the board. There are probably some getrag trannys out there that still have those original problems that have just never been used hard enough to show the defect. Some owners just use these trucks for show. A new owner might really put it to the test.



At any rate, I have subquently put the rest of 425k miles on my transmission and it has never had a real overhaul. It has 85aw right now and will have the next time I talk about it. I have rebuilt a few and they are running with 85aw. What should you use? Up to you. The synthetics are cheap compared to a rebuild and if you rest easier that way, by all means use the synthetic. Be sure you have the overfill and BE SURE IT STAYS TO THAT LEVEL. If you have gotten to 150k or better and have not experienced a failure, chances are you won't have trouble with anything other than the front countershaft bearing. The transmission will need to be reshimned (depending on service load) from time to time ( which requires pulling the transmission) but maintain it and it will wear out the engine. What more can one expect from a transmission.



That said, maybe I got a good one and it was better than most. Maybe some owners use their trucks a lot harder than I do. (I doubt) You still have to be the judge.



1stgen4evr

James

Sustaining member of the Getrag Preservation Society, Andy Mikonis, founder and patriarch of the clan. Any one who has more than 300k on a getrag or has done a successful overhaul is a self inducted member in good standing.

 

[RWWinslow]

Getrag Wear and Lubrication

As an engineer who has worked lubrication problems for 20 years in heavy industry and transportation I can state one fact with certainty - there is no absolute correct answer . . . . with that said I'll throw my experience into the discussion.



My Getrag has had one set of bearings and an input shaft replaced. The transmission has run on Mobil 1 5W30 for almost its entire life. Upon disassembly at 275,000 miles, the gears still showed machining marks. (This truck spends a lot of time off road and does some towing. ) After the 275,000 mile rebearing, the pilot bushing and throw out bearing never felt quite right - they were replaced about two weeks ago. The pilot bushing was showing considerable wear but the input shaft, etc. was still good.



The GETRAG must be overfilled with one quart - simply stated GETRAG screwed up when they originally calculated the amount of lubricant - I received that info from a GETRAG engineer many years ago. Change the oil regularly - and use a PAO base synthetic 5W30 motor oil. The Getrag is a very tight tolerance transmission - it does not tolerate low oil or dirty oil. The transmission shop I use feels that this transmission is every bit as good as a NV model as long as it is not abused (and they have done plenty of retrofits to NV models). The Getrag will make noise when something is starting to wear out so it is very important to pay attention.



Hope this helps . . . . contact my if you have questions . . .

 

[1stgen4evr]

And another word on the getrag

The getrag oil level is fine if it were mounted level. Look at the way the back of the transmission is lower than the front. This is 'Dodge' not getrag. Putting the extra quart is only bringing the level to the point need to properly lube the pocket bearing between the input and mainshaft.



For what it is worth, my gears are mirror bright and the transmission runs quiet at 427k miles. Original countershaft bearings. The only thing ever replaced in the transmission was from the self inflicted problem.



It is cheap insurance to replace the pilot and throwout bearing every time the transmission is out. The price of both is less than the labor to RandR a second time.



I specificly agree with RW and appreciate the additional comments. There is no absolute correct answer.



The getrag is as good as the NV. Neither will run with out proper lube. Do what you feel comfortable with. If you have composite syncros, you MUST use the synthetic. If it is making noise, it is begging for attention. Don't kill it.



James