Clutch Hydraulics

[NIsaacs]

AH, make sure there is no wear/slack in your clutch peddle/master cylinder linkage. Also, if you have a thick floor mat that might limit your travel, if you do, remove it. I would even remove your rubber cover on your clutch peddle and try that. If any of the above helps, then it is a good sign that you are working on the problem. If none of it helps, than the problem lies elsewhere.



Nick

 

[AH64ID]

The trick for putting the washer behind the ball stud came directly from Peter at SBC.



Anything above 7 quarts in the transmission is simply going to come out of the rear seal at a quick pace, especially when driving in hills or mountains. '



Godspeed,

Trent

SBC doesn't think it's hydraulics anymore, based on a couple things they had me do and how it reacts. If it were a hydraulics/flywheel issue it would be a constant issue, yet it's not. Because it doesn't have an issue until I sit in N with the clutch out, if I leave the clutch in it's not an issue. The hydraulics don't know the difference.



The 10qts was for transmissions with coolers, they don't recommend that much without the coolers for the leaking reasons.

 

[JDubien]

Did you find a solution to this problem AH? I'm experiencing the exact same problem.

 

[AH64ID]

I am running the SBC hydraulics and it's better, but not fixed. I am waiting for it to get cold to make a final decision on the improvement from the hydraulics.

 

[JDubien]

I'm sorry to hear that, it's sure frustrating to drive like this. I'm sure getting tired of pulling this damn trans out for clutch related issues. Something's definitely gotta change, this will be the 5th time! I've been running the SBC hydros and just replaced with brand new SBC hydros and it made no difference.

 

[AH64ID]

What are you running for fluid?

 

[JDubien]

I run Amsoil ATF with one extra quart. The thing is when the clutches are new, everything is smooth as silk for a while. This clutch has about 25k on it. It started getting difficult to shift about 8-10k miles ago and I just adapted to it but now it's bad enough to need removal very soon. The difficulty starts very mild and then progressively deteriorates with time/miles.
I'm really frustrated because I don't abuse my truck. I tow a 5th wheel that's around 17k lbs. I run smarty on 3 towing and 9 empty. I religiously engage the clutch with no throttle and then roll the power on. I start in 2nd empty, 1st towing always. I don't drag race or do burn outs. I live in Phoenix where its relatively flat too. I am my own maintenance shop and perform all my own work and servicing my clutch every year is really, really getting old not to mention expensive and coordinating the trucks down time is a real challenge too.

A new truck with an auto is appealing but I love the mileage in my 5. 9 and especially no exhaust filters or fluids to mess with either. I just want a clutch that will last.

 

[NIsaacs]

I would recommend a heavy duty single disk over the twin for normal driving/towing. The twin is fine for drag racing/sled pulling or any abusive driving style. The twin is too heavy for the syncros to stop and the center plate will not release well after it gums up from disk dust. The hydraulics are releasing the pressure plate but the center plate will "stick" from contamination over time and still "clamp" the inner disk.

Nick

 

[JDubien]

I appreciate your reply NIsaacs, that certainly makes sense about the center plate not releasing thus keeping the input shaft turning. Perhaps some type of lube on the splines would help or would that just speed up the process once the dust sticks to the grease? Maybe a dry lube like graphite?

I've been down the single disc road with two Con OFE's with similar drivability results. I was told by SBC that I was heating up the single disc causing it to warp due to heaving towing and smarty. I was told to go with the DD and everything would be great. I installed the first DD but SBC replaced under warranty due to a minor part failure. My current DD is well out of warranty and here I am faced with the same drivability issue a year later with a lighter wallet.

There must be a clutch system that can function properly for 100-150k miles without having to remove once a year to clean dust grime. Perhaps installing a SMF stock replacement clutch with organic facings and going back to stock power is the way to go. Then my smarty is just a really expensive code reader tool. Who knows at this point, I'm open to suggestions...

 

[NIsaacs]

There must be a clutch system that can function properly for 100-150k miles without having to remove once a year to clean dust grime. Perhaps installing a SMF stock replacement clutch with organic facings and going back to stock power is the way to go. Then my smarty is just a really expensive code reader tool. Who knows at this point, I'm open to suggestions...

For me, stock power is not an option, you won't like it either There must be something here we are overlooking. My '91 is still on it's orginal clutch, 312k, 263hp/708tq, not a lot but way more than stock. My '01 I just changed at 210k, 335hp/852tq, again not huge numbers but way more than stock. I tow heavy and have never felt any slipage or shifting issues.



What is it exactly that is failing on your clutches? Like you, it is not asking too much for 150/200k for a clutch life span.



Nick

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I was going to go the SBC route but after reading this and other complaints, I might stick with stock OE clutches.

The OE clutch lasted about 120k. I replaced it with more OE components and have about 100k + on those.

I have the NV5600 so it is very possible that I might have different results than you guys with G56's.

 

[LNaugle]

so, the housing and bore are plastic. the slave self adjusts itself as the clutch wears,moving its wear pattern constantly, i have made the mistake and not changed the hydraulics when changed clutch years ago... . i always do them at the same time now due to customers coming back with your same complaint. even had it happen in a jeep a customer changed the clutch himself, stopped in with same complaint, i ordered new assy. from jeep, installed, still driving today and that was six years ago. my theory is the bore wears and cant build exact same psi as before and it gets worse when it gets warmed up due to expansion... . guarantee new hydraulics will work and you will probably find the pedal easier to operate.

 

[NIsaacs]

I was going to go the SBC route but after reading this and other complaints, I might stick with stock OE clutches.



The OE clutch lasted about 120k. I replaced it with more OE components and have about 100k + on those.



I have the NV5600 so it is very possible that I might have different results than you guys with G56's.

JH, I would recommend you go to O'Reilly's web site (they have good photos) and compare the standard OEM with the OEM HD version. Look real good at the disc, huge difference in strength. Also, what you can't see is the pressure plate uses 2 leaf springs at all 4 contact points of the cover and cover hub surface, the OE uses only one. It is also still an organic lined disk which I prefer. I also like Sach's clutchs



Nick