Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Clutch Questions

[24valver]

I think I'll be needing a new clutch before too long. I was looking at South Bends' 12 1/4 Con O clutch. Says it'll hold 400HP, 900 lbs. torque. That should be fine; I've only got a Comp box and in the future I'll put in RV275 injectors. The question is, it says that it is not recommended for heavy towing. If I did tow heavy I could always turn the box down or off. Surely that wouldn't jepordize the clutch. Also would it hold up to full throttle lauches? I just don't have the money for the Con OFE. Give me your all suggestions. Thanks

 

[ThrottleJockey]

I was stock and I went ahead and bought the ConFE. That was back in 2001. I still have it. If you don't have the money for the OFE, you sure don't have the money for 2 clutches.



You better make sure that Comp box is off.

 

[Cummins724]

I did the same thing... . bought a Luk cerametallic trying to save money. Here I am 2 clutches later. Get the ofe & be done with it.

 

[RobertP]

like the rest have said the OFE is a better choice for what you have and what you have planned. it still a very drivable clutch.

 

[AFarmer]

13 1. 25 Con OFE will make for an awesome clutch.

 

[BigPapa]

Get the 13" clutch. I went with the Con O for the same reasons you list. It does fine and has performed well but after only @80K miles the hub came apart on me. I don't tow heavy, I don't make tons of power, and I don't abuse my clutch. The 12" clutch hub just will not handle the power in the long run. SBC plainly states on their website that they will not warranty a 12" clutch if the hub comes apart. Why do you think Dodge went with the 13"? Save a few more pennies and get the 13". You'll be much happier in the long run



Scott

 

[isb360]

Anyone experience 1st and Reverse engagement issues with ConOFE and NV5600? My buddy just had one installed and was told that lack of adjustability in OEM master/slave system is now allowing for complete disengagement even with pedal all the way in.



I drove the truck and it is damned near impossible to engage 1st... I tried all the techniques, but the only sure bet is shutting off the motor.



My FE has no such problems. The only idiosynchrosy is having to go from first to reverse to prevent teeth gnashing.



Also, my FE has much lighter-than-stock pedal pressure with engagement about half way through pedal travel. His engages right near the floor and pedal pressure is more(?) than stock.



Thoughts?



Tim

 

[AFarmer]

Sounds like he may need a new set of hydrdaulics.

 

[isb360]

Funny you say that. His master cylinder (or slave, I forget which) blew out about a year ago and he had to have it towed to shop to have it replaced. I am wondering if it's defective or needs to be bled. A mechanic who does a lot of work on the diesels -- and also on the side -- did the clutch for him, so presumably would have mentioned it if there was a problem with the hydraulics.



Tim

 

[PC12Driver]

Mine's been that way since the beginning (two sets of hydraulics). I'm thinking it's the synchros having a harder time slowing down the heavier disk.



A quick test: once you get it in first (engine running) pull it back into neutral and leave your foot on the clutch. Count to ten and put it back in first. If the hydraulics are weak and the clutch is dragging, it'll be just as difficult to get back into gear. If it drops right back in, then the clutch disk is still stopped and it's just a matter of the synchros taking longer to stop the clutch disk.

 

[RobertP]

that problem is in the works of getting corrected. it only happens on a certin few of them.

 

[BigPapa]

Sounds like he could have pilot bearing problems. It's easily damaged during install if your not careful.



Scott