Clutch wear - Do you downshift to slow down?

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When I was test driving my Money Sink, I came up on a stop light, pushed in the clutch & used the brake to slow down. I thought I'd broken a cardinal rule! The owner said that "I should downshift to slow down. " I told him that break pads are cheaper than clutch discs. I was programmed that way. #ad


Do you use brakes or gears to slow down?

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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, SLT, 4X4, LWB, Ext Cab, ISSPRO pillar guages, TST 685, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, Injectors, K&N, Monicas silencer ring removed, Exhaust brake, 4" CAT back w/no CAT, 4" chrome turn down tailpipe straight out back, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, Spray in bed liner, Super5th side to side tilting 24k#, Brush Guard, Stainless rear window louvers & lite bar, Diamond plate tool box & bed caps, Dodge running boards, Sheepskin.

 

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Both!

\\BF//

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"Drifty" y2k SLT L. E. 2500QC/SWB/5sp/3. 54LSD/bed spray/camper @ tow/fogs as DRL's/3rd Brake flasher/hr mtr/alternator isolator (150a diode)/Mag-Hytec & Ball valve oil drain/CB/25. 5k hitch/NO muffler&resonator(STOLEN?)-3" replacement/etc.

Not Stroking, BUT, RAMming it Home! \\BF//

 

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Forrest
I use gearing as much as possible and never push clutch in until just before complete stop. Use the throttle and bring up the rpms to match the lower gear you are going into and the clutch won't know the difference. I don't necessarily downshift a lot if empty. The exhaust brake is always on also to further help with the slowing. As for added clutch wear, I don't know as it has a lot of effect as I have only totally worn out 1 clutch and that was from a lot of "hotrodding" in my younger days.
Larry


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Ram Rod
'96 2500 club cab 5speed 4x4 3:54 pacbrake combo gauge and most all factory options
35' holiday rambler 5th wheel
on order: '01 3500 quad cab SLT+ white/agate 6 speed 4:10 posi camper/ towing packages towing mirrors etc. etc.

 

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I use the e brake, all except the last 10 feet or so... works great!

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Rob Hanson
1999 3500 SLT QC 4X4 Cummins
Flame Red, Rhino, 6 spd, 4. 10LSD, FX Running Boards, Cobra CB, Stinger Bug Shields, Mag-Hytec rear cover, Cummins E-Brake, Torklift Super Hitch, BD 4" exhaust, Blue Box, Bosch 275HP injectors, Halogen Backup Lights, 4"rear mounted tractor lights, Autometer SportComp Boost and EGT Guages, K&N RE-0880,
Member of BOMB! (WW NW Chapter)

MyPics.com (pics updated 2/25/00)

I'd rather be... .
Cummin than Strokin.

 

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Larry,

I agree with your approach to downshifting. If you don't bring up the RPM, then the clutch has to slip. I would guess that this method is especially good for the clutch while towing. #ad


By the way Larry, I just looked at your signature. The 5th wheel that this truck towed was a 35' Holiday Rambler, triple axle. Is yours a triple axle? What is its dry weight?

[This message has been edited by Forrest (edited 03-11-2000). ]

 

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Forrest
No my 5er is only a tandem axle. 7100# axles and 12 ply steeltex commercial type tires. It weighs 13200 without anything in the holding tanks, but pretty close to being loaded like we normally travel.
Larry

 

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No,I don't downshift to a stop. Brake pads ARE cheaper AND easier to replace than a clutch. I too have worn out a clutch,but that was in a gasser. I think diesels are harder on clutches because of max torque at low RPM... and worse when they're "turned up". One of these days I'll get an exh-brake.

-Mike

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'00 QC 2500 4x4, 6spd, LB, LSD, 3. 54, SLT, Dark Garnet, Agate, Camper, Trailer, Fogs, Clarion 6-disc, Smittybilt nerfs, Midland CB, Isspro pyro & boost, K&N Scotty Air, 3" pipe bomb, 2wd low, OEM tailgate lites, Tow hooks, DD stage II, 5. 9L R/T

A vulgar display of power!

 

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I agree 100% with what Larry said. I always hit the throttle to match the rpm's when downshifting. If everything is rotating at the speed during engagement, there should be little or no clutch wear. This type of downshifting is a must in 18 wheelers, and since I drive those for a living, it's just a habit for me. If you match the rpm's just right, you don't need to push in the clutch at all. Same with upshifting, let the rpm's drop before going into the next gear. The key is smoothness and finesse. I always use the exhaust brake, too. My truck has 37k miles now and the brakes still look like new (only 1,300 of those miles involved towing).
I should add this: on a 5-speed, you need to let the rpm's drop WAY down before downshifting from 4th to 3rd. There is quite a large gap between those gears. I rarely ever downshift to 2nd, because it seems like an even larger gap. The times that I have downshifted to 2nd, along with using the exhaust brake, I've been able to bring the truck to a slow roll without ever touching the brakes.
Andy

[This message has been edited by Andy Perreault (edited 03-12-2000). ]

 

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For fun I've been practicing "heel & toe" downshifts lately. This technique allows to operate all three pedals simultaneuosly. You use the toe of your right foot to brake, and reach your heel over to hit the throttle. Takes lots of practice to get the throttle right, but when you get it down you can decellerate with brake and downshifting at the same time.

Vaughn<html>

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<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">

<hr>

<p align="left"><font color="#408080" size="2" face="Graphite Light ATT"><strong>2001 3/4T QC SWB 2wd</strong></font></p>

<p align="left"><font color="#0080C0" size="2" face="Graphite Light ATT"><strong>Patriot Blue over Driftwood, H. O. 24 valve,
6-speed, 3. 54 LSD, Mist Gray with most options, Camper & Tow
Packages, Fog Lamps, Cab Lights. </strong></font></p>

<p align="left"><font color="#008000" size="2" face="Graphite Light ATT"><strong>409 miles (3-12-00)</strong></font></p>

</body>

 

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Near zero wear if you blip the throttle to match engine and transmission speed for the down shift. I got 156,000 on my last clutch using this method and that was with lots of off road 4x4 slippage. Side effect is that you're always in the correct gear if you suddenly need to go rather than stop.

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 2500. Used for the daily/weekend grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

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I always downshift and let my exhaust brake do it's job. But a buddy of mine brought up a good point this weekend is the transmission desinged to decel as good as excel, just another thought.

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1996 4x4 3500 4. 10 5spd, Banks Power Pack with 4" exhaust, Cummins exhaust brake, US Gear overdrive, Grover air horns, Mag-Hytec cover, and more.

 

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I use the e-brake some and down shift,bringing up the rpm's,so the change is suttle. I never keep the clutch pedal down while waiteing at a stop lite.

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97 Ram 2500 4x4 Driftwood 5spd 3:54 E-brake Isspro,boost&pyro guages 25,500 miles

 

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BPINE,

Good point. Deceleration is negative acceleration, so whatever was designed into certain areas of the transmission case to prevent acceleration separating gears & shafts would equally apply to deceleration forces. Deceleration forces would be less though. I guess that theory could be carried thru the clutch to the motor & the other way thru the u-joints to the rear end. One things for sure, if you don't use the gears to slow down, any of the added stress & wear doesn't come into play. #ad


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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, SLT, 4X4, LWB, Ext Cab, ISSPRO pillar, TST 280/685 all the way forward, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, Injectors, K&N, Monicas silencer ring removed, Exhaust brake, 4" CAT back & CATless, 4" chrome turn down straight out back, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, 235s, Spray in bed liner, Super5th side to side tilting 24k#, Brush Guard, Stainless rear window louvers & lite bar, Diamond plate tool box & bed caps, Dodge running boards, Sheepskin.

 

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I'm sure Forrest would use an e-brake if he had one, but that's not the question.....
Downshift? Yeah I do from 5th to 4th with the rpms matched. I don't see much sense after that. I'm going slow enough with the big down shift and a little brakeing to be slow enough that the problem is mute... .....
Just my thoughts,
ROn