Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Cold Kills Truck, Even with block heater connected!?

[HHhuntitall]

Check the fuel shutoff solenoid to make sure it is opening. If it isn't opening, try tying it in the up position and see if it will start.

Where my bet would be.... If the boot is bad and gets any kind of moisture in it, when it freezes, it won't move.

 

[mwilson]

Where my bet would be.... If the boot is bad and gets any kind of moisture in it, when it freezes, it won't move.

X2.

Mike.

 

[GAmes]

Where my bet would be.... If the boot is bad and gets any kind of moisture in it, when it freezes, it won't move.

I agree, it fits the warm garage scenario better than my gelled fuel theory.

 

[HHhuntitall]

I agree, it fits the warm garage scenario better than my gelled fuel theory.

I wouldn't eliminate that, yet. But as was said above, the pump will still push some gelled fuel, making it at least flutter for a few revolutions...... JMO.... Trying to help.

 

[GROBBINS]

Cold Kills Truck, Even with block heater connected........Solved!

Well, you guys saved me once again. Truck fired right up out of the garage like usual, and drove fine out to the jobsite. I let it sit for an hour or so just to test it, and it started up fine. I assumed that it was because it was 30 degrees out.(warm) When I finished,(4 hours later) I went out to warm up the truck and it just cranked over. I then lifted the shut off solenoid, but it just sprang back into the off position. I then scratched my head and pushed on the fuel filter primer several times and went and tested it again....nothing. I then turned the ignition into the on position and tried to lift the solenoid again, this time it stayed up and the truck fired right up. Was I relieved! So, my question. The solenoid boot doesn't look to be damaged, and it is not very cold either. Would there be a electrical short that is not allowing the solenoid to engage? Anyway, I want to thank all of you for your insight and experience. This forum is truly a blessing for myself and my aging diesel rig. I appreciate all of the time and energy that all of you devote towards helping one another. Thank you

 

[Crowhurst]

The solenoid can jam up with oil and dirt. I've removed the solenoid, cleaned the bore and the sliding tube and reassembled with a very light smear of light oil, like 3-in-one. The solenoid should slide smoothly up the bore. There are two coils. One gives a strong pull to lift the solenoid. The second, less powerful, just holds the solenoid up.
If cleaning doesn't sort the issue I would replace the relay on the firewall.
Nick.

 

[PToombs]

Since it was cold and the lever sprang back when you released it, I would say it's not freezing. My thought at this point is it's not getting enough voltage when it's cold to pull it into the run position. There are 2 sections on that solenoid, a large pull in coil and a smaller hold in coil. When you put the key in the start position it powers the pull in coil, in the run position it powers the hold in coil, which is obviously working because it held it when you pushed it up with the key on. I would get the batteries checked next, they may not have enough grunt to power the starter and the pull in coil, but it may also be a dirty connection or a bad wire to the pull in coil. My bet is batteries or battery terminals dirty.

 

[BigPapa]

Sounds like your solenoid is OK. I would suggest first swapping the relay in the fuse panel with the A/C relay. If it still does it, I'd replace the relay on the fire wall.

Just a bit of info, my solenoid, the original from '95 with over 500K miles on it, hasn't had a boot on it for the past 10 years and over 300K miles.

 

[mwilson]

The pivot on the shut off arm may have dried / rusted also.

See this thread for the location...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...emely-difficult-to-operate?highlight=solenoid

Mike.

 

[BigPapa]

So, what did you come up with?

 

[PToombs]

Yes, do tell! Enquiring minds (and nosy people) would like to know!