Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Couple new issues!

[SnoKing]

Different Randy's. Well at least not the Ring and Pinon shop in South Everett.

This is at Smokey point!

http://randysoffroad.com/

Chris

 

[cerberusiam]

You could have miltiple problems. That much metal on the magnet is not a good sign. It could also be from where ever thos elarger pieces came from. That does not look like the typical metal from the steels on that magnet, more along the lines of steel from a planetary cage or gears. A tear down is probably the only sure way to know what is going on.

 

[JLandry]

Chris,

If I were in your situation and you aren't able to reach DTT, I think I'd look for a transmission shop close to home that has good user reviews and few complaints on websites like yelp.com, angieslist.com, BBB.org, etc. Our transmissions are quite common and a reputable shop should have no problem diagnosing and repairing the problem.

Best of luck with all this!

John L.

 

[SnoKing]

A friend down on the dock who is a long time Caddy and now Chevy dealer mechanic gave me a reference to what he says in the best transmission shop in the area. It is Skagit Transmission in Burlington! Chris

 

[JLandry]

Please let us know what the diagnosis is once you find out.

John L.

 

[SnoKing]

Will do. I plan on taking the broken pieces and pan into them this afternoon and let them look at it. Then button it up and take it into them most likely. Much easier that delivering it to Chiliwack, BC with two vehicles and then picking it up again. Just concerned that someone else does not screw up all the special things that DTT does with the 47RE. Hopefully I can get it fixed for 1000-1500. 500 RR plus repair. Between the Amsoil and Sensor and solenoid I purchased I already have 500 bucks into this. Maybe Dodge will take back the sensor and solenoid which is still sealed in a bag?

Chris

 

[SnoKing]

Well, this morning I received this from DTT in an Email.

"Chris our business was mostly ship out components and transmission to shops and end users so ship out is what we do exclusively now from Canada. If you need to have the unit worked on there is a Jamie’s Transmissions in WA that purchases some of our components and should be able to help . We do not have an exclusive Canadian facility dedicated to service work.

Shanti

DTT TECH SUPPORT

www.dieseltrans.com

866-504-4002"

Sad day for all of us in the NW that were so loyal to their product, and spent thousands of dollars with them, making the trip to their shop for super service from the masters! My DTT transmission has performed just how I expected it to up until this recent problem. Hopefully I can make it well again!

A google search shows that Jamie's Transmission Service is in Snohomish, Wa.
Address: 501 Maple Ave, Snohomish, WA 98290
Phone (425) 335-0220

Chris

 

[SnoKing]

Got a call from Bill. He thinks from the pictures that the pieces are from a broken planetary gear, not sure unless the pieces are in his hand. He thinks the first-second shifting is the Governor Pressure Sensor. Also said it is time for a triple disc converter and new flex plate.

Also they noted "In case you do not remember the band adjustments for DTT units and anyone running our parts are front band 72 inch lbs in back off two turns, rear band 72 inch lbs in back off 3 turns."

Chris

 

[SnoKing]

I have to say that Bill and Shanti follow-up with several emails, confirming what we talked about on the phone! So they are still there and active in the transmission supply chain for complete transmission and parts.

Chris

 

[Metalibend]

I have had transmission work done by Wil Strange. Wil and his family have been doing transmissions for a long time. They are located in Graham Washington. I do a lot of my own work, but leave transmissions to the experts. He is beyond an expert, give him a call. The best and most honest shop I have ever been too. But as it all ways happens, people can make mistakes from time to time. We are all human.

 

[SnoKing]

Just an update. The truck is back together for now, and we will address where to go from here after the first of the year, as we have a planned trip to Maui after Christmas. I have emailed back and forth with Source Automotive in Portland. However that is a long way to go to drop it off and then pick it up again a few days later.

I have an option to drop it out myself and take it to DTT drop point in Blaine. They will rework it and deliver it back to the drop point.

So any input of DYI R&R of a transmission in a 4x4 would be helpful. Like how far does the truck have to be blocked up to get the transmission slid out from under it? Rent or by a transmission jack etc. Anyone use this jack? http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html

The option for a new 2013 3500 SRW LWB Aisin transmission truck looked really good until we slept on it over night!

Chris

 

[cerberusiam]

Obnoxiuosly high to get the trans out on the jack, at least with the amount of weight there. Takes good big jack(s) to raise is far enough safely.

If you slide the trans off the jack then it will come out with raising the truck. Laying on your back and manhandling the trans is not for the faint of heart, it is a heavy bugger. Take the TC out and it is easier but still a handful. Done it many times but it takes a helper to get it back on the jack when installing.

 

[SnoKing]

Look at the HF jack I linked it only has a 16" lift, which would not work that well! Chris

 

[JR]

I had to drop the trans out of my former 00 while our lift was down for repairs. I trailered it up to the fab shop where I was working at the time and used the fork lift to drop it out. Got it all prepped and then drove the fork truck in from the side with 6" box tube slid over the forks for extensions. Shimmed them up with cribbing to pick up evenly on the trans, ratchet strapped trans to the forks, sideshifted and lowered. Trans wouldn't quite come out being on the forks so hooked rear of truck to bridge crane and picked the rear end up until I could back the fork lift out. Other than working on my back it wasn't too bad. Take the fork lift out of the equation and I don't wanna play anymore.
By the time it was ready to go back in the lift was repaired so we put it back in at home. Definitely the preferred method.

 

[JLandry]

Some jobs are worth paying someone else to do.

This is definitely one of them.

John L.

 

[Sticks]

I know I have done an auto or two before, but I can not remember the specifics.

I did this writeup a long while back on R&R a manual trans. The only difference is obviously going to be the torque converter steps. Disregard the steps specific to the manual trans & clutch. Once the transmission is out, you may have enough room to roll it out from underneath on the jack. One way to know for sure how much you want your truck up in the air is to measure from the bottom of the transmission pan to the top of the bell housing. That plus the height of whatever jack you use to remove the trans will be the clearance height you will need to get under the frame.

Here is a instruction list that I wrote earilier this spring.



TOOLS:

· transmission jack

· 2 or 3 ratchet straps

· porta power (this will make removing the cross member MUCH eaiser) A bottle jack and a piece of 4x4 will work in a pinch. Drill a hole in the end of the 4x4 to allow the bottle jack shaft to go in the 4x4 a couple of inches

· Selection of wrenches, sockets, drifts/punches, and maybe a prybar or two.

· various other garage implements.





1. Jack the truck up front and rear so the tires are at least 6” off the ground. You can be lower, but it is so much easier to deal with the flywheel and clutch pak if you can be actually sitting under the truck.

2. Remove Front and rear drive shafts. You will have to remove the carrier bearing assembly for the rear as well. Use a rubber glove to put over the end of the transfer case to keep the oil from dripping all over.

3. Remove the skid plate.

4. Disconnect the various wires and hoses from the transmission and transfer case.

5. Disconnect the 4wd linkage from the transfer case

6. remove the vacuum lines (if you have the CAD) from the cross member and the frame.

7. Unbolt and remove the clutch slave cylinder and secure it out of the way.

8. Remove ALL BUT TWO of the transmission mounting bolts – one on each side.

9. Remove the two bolts from the exhaust mount on the rear of the transmission.

10. Disassemble the shift tower and remove the four bolts holding the stick to the transmission. Pull up on the stick assembly and set to the side.

11. Set the transmission jack under the transmission in the rear half of the transmission. Use a ratchet strap to help secure the transmission to the jack. Take care no to have the straps where they will get cut when the transmission comes down, and that the transmission will not roll over on the jack. Put just a little upward pressure on the transmission.

About here is where I would start unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate. I cant remember if the transmission housing has an inspection plate on the bottom that can be removed so you can bar the engine over while removing the torque converter bolts through the access port in the right hand (passenger) side of the bell housing. Remove a bolt, roll the engine over till you see the next one, remove, and so on.

12. Remove the 8 nuts & bolts holding the cross member, and the 2 holding the transfer case mount

13. Set the porta power between the frame rails behind the cross member and slowly start to spread the frame. When the cross member is loose, remove the transfer case mount.

14. Continue to spread the frame until you can wiggle, and twist the cross member out DO NOT OVER SPREAD THE FRAME! Only spread it enough where you can slide the cross member slightly forward to get over the ridge to get it out. You may have to set the porta power behind the transfer case so you can slide the cross member towards the rear.

15. Once the cross member is removed verify that there is nothing still attached to the transmission (wires/vacuum lines, brackets attached to the truck somehow…) and remove the porta power

16. lower the transmission about 1 to 1. 5 inches.

17. Set another jack under the oil pan. With a piece of wood to distribute the weight, slowly lift the front of the engine so you have a little angle pointing down towards the rear of the truck. You may have to lower the transmission another inch.

18. Remove the last two bolts and split the transmission from the engine.

19. Pull the transmission straight back from the engine until the input shaft is clear of the clutch pak. Keep an eye on the shift tower so that it clears the access hole to the cab. You may have to lower the transmission some more, or lift the front of the engine.

20. Once the transmission is clear of the clutch, continue to slowly lower and push the transmission back. You may have to move slightly to the drivers side to clear the exhaust mount bracket.

Make sure the torque converter comes out with the trans. Once it is clear, you may want to put some duct tape or a long bolt & nut through one of the mounting hole with a tab of some sort to keep the TC from sliding out.

21. Once the transmission is clear of obstruction, lower it all the way and slide back so that you can get to the clutch pak with ease.

NOTE Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input shaft of the transmission. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS!

22. Remove the uppermost pressure plate bolt and rethread by hand about ½ way in.

23. Using the clutch alignment tool from your new clutch, insert it into the friction plate and into the flywheel bearing

24. Remove the rest of the plate bolts in a star or criss cross pattern.

25. Keeping a good grip on the pressure plate, remove the last bolt from the pressure plate and remove the clutch pak from the flywheel

26. Remove and rethread the uppermost bolt on the flywheel

27. Remove the remaining bolts on the flywheel.

28. Using a dead blow or rubber mallet, smack the crap out of the flywheel until it breaks loose from the engine.

29. Keeping a firm grip on the flywheel, it weighs like 75#, remove the last bolt and remove the flywheel. OK it only weighs maybe 40, but 75 made you hold on to it a little better.

30. Have the flywheel ground by a shop that uses a grinder NOT A LATHE to resurface the flywheel.

31. Using a flashlight, look inside the bell housing of the transmission and on the left side (while you are looking at it) there is a keeper spring that is holding the clutch lever to the pivot point. You need to see how it os on there so you can put it back on the same way. Remove the clutch lever by pulling straight back, the retaining spring will come with it. Remove the throw out bearing and install the new one.

32. Reinstall the clutch lever in the transmission.

33. Once you have your flywheel back, thoroughly clean the surface with brake cleaner, including all the holes in the outer edge. When it is clean DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS.

34. Remove the old pilot bearing and Lightly grease the new pilot bearing and insert it in the flywheel with the proper tools (a socket with the same diameter as the driver and a hammer works in a pinch). Clean any new grease marks on the flywheel

35. Hold the flywheel up to the engine and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place, then thread the rest of the bolts. Tighten them to the proper torque (?) in a star or criss cross pattern.

36. Verify that you have the correct friction plate by fitting it on the input shaft of the transmission. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH GREASY HANDS!

37. Using the clutch alignment tool, insert it in the friction plate with the appropriate markings on the friction plate facing out and then insert the assembly into the pilot bearing on the flywheel.

38. Hold the pressure plate up to the flywheel, and thread the upper most bolt to hold it in place. Thread the rest of the mounting bolts into the pressure plate.

39. In a criss cross or star pattern tighten the mounting bolts one turn at a time BY HAND. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT WRENCH!

40. Torque the bolts to the appropriate number (?)

41. Roll the transmission into position and begin jacking it up. You will have to move forward and up in small increments to clear the clutch assembly and the shift tower in the cab. Watch for anything the transmission may catch on (4wd linkage, clutch slave cylinder, wires, hoses…)

42. Once you have the transmission lined up and partially inserted into the clutch assembly, use another ratchet strap running from frame rail to frame rail near the transfer case to help hold that end up. This will allow you to make the minor adjustments to the angle while inserting.

43. Continue to move the transmission into the clutch, being careful not to force it. Using a drift in the dowel pin holes will help with the alignment. Use of a geared socket to turn the flywheel from the access port on the passenger side of the engine (opposite of the starter) may make aligning the splines easier. If you do not have the right tool, you can use a socket on the flywheel to turn the engine over.

44. Once the transmission is up against the engine, insert the mounting bolts and tighten them up.

45. Release the jack under the oil pan slowly while lifting the transmission up at the same speed.

46. Re-install everything removed in reverse order (16, 15, …1)

 

[cerberusiam]

Look at the HF jack I linked it only has a 16" lift, which would not work that well! Chris

That jack would work fine for getting the trans out I think, but you would never get it out from under the truck on the jack. You need 16-18" more than stock fame to ground clearancee with the trans on a jack to roll it under the frame.

 

[SnoKing]

There is a inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. I have the Cummings baring tool. I have two B150's in my boat and bought it for adjusting the valves.

Will decide next year how to proceed. Chris

 

[SnoKing]

Duplicate post.

 

[SnoKing]

Well, yesterday I called the guys at Dynomite Diesel Performance in Monroe, Wa were I dyno'd my truck years ago. Owner Lenny said take it to Mike at North State Auto Clinic in Marysville, Wa, who builds trannies for them when they need one. So I jumped in my wife's Buick Rainier with pictures and hard parts from the pan and went and interviewed Mike! He is an old horse that has been in the business for years and does the bench work himself. Arranged to take it in next Wednesday morning and hang out until they have it apart at noonish to see what they find. He could not tell for sure where the broke pieces came from.

They will fix whatever is broken and freshen it up including a triple disc torque converter. Should be around 3K plus whatever is broken? So I will be happy if it is 3 - 3.5K. My billet input shaft, other billet parts, custom valve body and other trick stuff from the custom build in 2004 will get cleaned up and reused.

I just found things to pick apart on most of the trucks I looked at. If I was dumping mine on a trade in, then how did they get the ones they had????

But when I win the Lottery, I will have a new SRW 3500 4x4 RAM with the Aisin transmission!!!!!

Chris