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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cracked 53 block HELP

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Mule

TDR MEMBER
Can anyone give me some advice on a cracked block I smelt antifreeze and crawled under truck and found where my block is cracked. Does Dodge or Cummins do anything to help out with this? 129,000 and babied really pisses a guy off. What options? stitch that I have read about? replace block? and does anyone have an idea what that would cost? would appreciate the help thanks Mule
 
If you have not done a search then do so; there is so much information on here that has been discussed. Why to much to repeat and should keep you reading for awhile.
 
I'm sorry for your bad luck. I'm sure it is frustrating.

Your warranty expired long ago and Chrysler owed Cummins $50 million last I heard. I doubt Cummins will provide any assistance. I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask but . . . . .

A complete replacement will be expensive but it will avoid additional expense and frustration of fooling with a marginal and perhaps temporary repair.

One member did a careful block stitch repair, twice if I remember correctly, and eventually gave up and replaced the block.
 
Go see Cummins... . 50-50 chance, at under the 160 mark they may help you out with a block. i've had Cummins do that on several customers trucks.

Tell them you know about the Cummins notice about the 53 block... good luck
 
Mine was over 5years old but only had 78k when it cracked. Cummins agreed to provide all the parts, but the labor would have been on me. I was quoted from $4-4. 5k. I bought a new block off of ebay paid about 1/2 price of that of the dealer. Bought the rest of the parts from Cummins have about $2k total. Did all the labor myself. I have 87K on the truck now and runs great.
 
I bought a truck earlier this year. Three days after I bought it I was towing a boat to the lake and I was 1/2 way there and started losingcoolant and over heating. thought it was a head gasket and found out it was the "53 block" It was cracked before I bought it but the guy JB welded the entire side of the block and painted it black. the block was cracked from front to back the entire length of the block.



Luckily a friend had a long block just laying in his garage. It needed new bearings, and a # 6 piston. So I honed out the cylinder put new rings on a piston form the old block new rod and main bearings, new gaskets and some other odds and ends and I was out the door for ~$1k + a bunch of labor of my own.



The guy that sold me the block is on here and he has helped me out a great deal. His SN is BHowiak, I think thats how you spell it.



I hope you have as generous of luck as I had.
 
I've got about 116000 on my 53 that is mildly bombed and no problems so far. It seems to be a crap shoot if it's gonna crack or not. There's a ton of stuff on here about it as well as a well researched article in the TDR Magazine about it. It's a thickness issue with the casting (obviously) that they talk about. You can pull a freeze plug and measure the wall and if you're over a certain thickness you golden, thinner and you run the risk of a crack.



I've followed several sagas on here of folks with cracks and I've decided if mine goes I'm gonna go with a new block... truck is too tricked out to part with.
 
Yes My truck is also a 53 series. The Previous owner slathered JB weld all over the side of the engine to hide it... But i found a place locknstick industries. LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. homepage: Cast iron crack repair, cast iron welding, thread repair inserts they specialize in col cast iron repair with the use of stitching pins. I ordered their 53 series kit, it was like $250. I am very mechanically in touch, I own a machine and fab shop, So I had the expertise to do this job, they also sell block reinforcement brackets, they just charge an ungodly amount for the like $300/ea. I was able to make the same thing in 1/2 hr each, check the website out you'll find something good there, I promise.
 
I agree but from what I have read if the area of the block to be repaired is thin which caused the crack to begin with. The repair has had limited success. I certainly can be wrong about this but in my minds eye it makes sense. I do not have a 53 block or know anybody that does or anybody who has used this method to repair. All I can say is what I have read here and other forums. Certainly is cheaper than a new block specially if you count your labor as worth anything. I would try it first I think but have the expectation it will not work in this application. Just my thoughts for what it is worth
 
TDR member EricBu12 had that experience about two years ago. He carefully photographed and documented his lock stitch repair procedure in a series of posts here in the TDR forum. IIRC he also repeated the original procedure or performed a second step to modify or improve it, I don't remember what that was about.

Ultimately the repair failed and he replaced the block. Apparently the replacement engine didn't work out well either and he recently posted photos of a new '09 Ram.
 
My repair went smooth, except the repair was a bi*ch, i removed the fender but it was still very tight. MY block was cracked about 5 inches, The method of repair has been sucessful, it still weeps a small amount (like less than 1/2 quart per month), before the repair my block leaked about 3 quarts per month. So I say it was worth it, and if I have to eventually find a new block, I will order a reman ISB engine.
 
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