Cracked Block!!

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stabilizer shock

Comp Problem

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Yup, I have a cracked block. I started to smell coolant about a week ago. I figured it was just a hose. The truck is getting to the age where a hose could crack. Well, I checked every hose. Checked every frost plug I could see. Even tie wrapped a clean paper towel around the harder to get at hoses and drove the truck around. Clean paper towel but the leak was getting worse. It looked to be comming from the transmission coolant tank on the right side of the engine but every time I crawled under it and felt around, it was dry. Finally started it up and crawled under it again with a bright light. Boy is that thing loud idleing. There on the right side of the block just below the transmission coolant tank were about 6 little pin holes seeping collant. I could not believe my eyes.



Friday I took it to the dealer expecting I would get the run-around. Absoultly no problem, a new short block has been ordered. They claim I will have my truck back in about three weeks. I will post the results when I get it back. It has almost 68K miles on it.
 
Dang... these things are showing up everywhere all of a sudden. Glad to here you didn't have any trouble getting it replaced. Figures mine is the only one that waited till well AFTER the warenty was up. I'll be making some phone calls Monday morning.
 
Cade & Valkyrie99...

Just curious, what where the manufacture dates of your trucks and were they built in the US? The manufacture date should be on the driver's side door data plate. Also, if you know, when was your engine manufactured by Cummins? That info should be on the dataplate on the engine on the front right side.

I have a '99 and both my truck and my engine were manufactured in 11/98... . My truck was also built in St. Louis.
 
Dang, thats great news that theyre taking care of it for you!!



You'll even have a new motor again. It shows that things arent always as bad as they look at first.
 
Anybody know if a cracked block would show up as antifreeze in the oil when doing an oil sample? I have heard the a blown head gasket will, but it seems like a cracked block would just leak antifreeze outside of the engine and not into the oil... :confused:
 
The truck was built in St Louis, 11/98, but I don't know who did the engine. Dodge has the truck right now and I cannot look at the data plate. Must be a very thin casting on that side of the engine.
 
I HAVE A CRACKED BLOCK TO.

I HAVE A 99 CUMMINS AND IT TO HAS A CRACK IN THE SAME SPOT . MINE HAD 42000 MILES ON IT DEALER PUT IN KNEW SHORT BLOCK ,CAM, LIFTERS . THAT WOULD BE GREAT IF They had not forgoten to bolt the rear tire on. the 5 star tec drove off for test drive and the wheel fell off jacked up wheel,brake drum shoes ,axle,backing plate,And to top it all off he put a dent in front fender and scrached the hell out of both fenders,Im so f***ing mad I almost brought a gun with me when I droped it off to have it painted and fixed!:mad: :mad:
 
Figure I'd better check my block, this is a little scary. I have a 99 with 97,000 miles so I'd better check the block out soon. I have on a couple occasions smelled antifreeze but I can only remember two times, none the less with the magic mileage number coming I want to look. So is it best to look at the block with the engine running?? Is it going to be pretty noticable?? What general area should I be looking in?? I've never seen any eveidence of coolant on the garage floor, or are these leaks too small??



Thanks, just want to feel a little better about this...
 
Look on right side of the block...

Look on the right side of the block, in the area below where the block heater is installed. I think this is where they have all cracked so far. :(



Any ideas what we can do for those of anyone with one out of warranty when it cracks? Buy a new block?:eek: :eek: :{ :{ That really bites. :rolleyes:



Hey, any ideas why my signature does not show up any more?
 
The 12v's don't seem to have the cracked block troubles...

Can someone shed some light on why this is? It is my understanding that the 12v's also had the blocks with the thinner 6mm walls..... :confused:
 
My guess

My guess is that the stock 12 valves have less power and are lower reving engines which create less stress on the blocks. :D
 
Uh-oh, I'm about be in trouble with mu latest mods then1





I think the REAL reason is they THINNED the blocks out on the 24 valves knowing full well they would not produce any sort of real power. :D :D
 
Hopefully its not a cavatation problem like some of the other diesels. Cummings B engines didnt have that problem. Right??
 
cracked blocks

I was at an auction last fall and an equipment trader was talking about his last "bombed" 1 ton that he hauled equipment with. Said he turning up the juices more and more and was amazed at what it would pull. Finally got to the point he was hauling a big IH tractor on the gooseneck, got in a hard pull and said the the torque pulled the motor mount, chunk of block and all right out of the side of the block. Finally found the limit. Had something under 200K on if by then. Said that thing would haul crawlers, anything the gooseneck could hold up off the ground it would pull. :--)
 
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