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Craked Engine Block

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It started out I smelled coolant so I started investagating, I or I should say Herb found the crack. Its located on right side of block, just below freeze plug. Crack is about 1. 5 inch Horizontal,I about sh----t ! When I seen it. Truck has 38541 miles 99 3/4 ton. Im waiting on the dealer to get back to me, posilbilty new moter complete, or short block?? So if you start smelling coolant start looking around. I think it was posible it was a bad casting dont know for sure. :mad:
 
Hmmm... maybe I can cite my 98. 5 24V's lack of b$@@s due bad casting... YEAH RIGHT!



Is there a VIN range to watch for on those bad castings?
 
I too am curious if there is a known VIN range or serial number range on the engine itself? If there is, would it be on the tag that has engine specs, or is there a casting serial number someplace? I have an early '99.



On the same subject, how detrimental is a crack like this? Is it just a matter of leaking coolant, or can severe engine damage occur?

Will something like Bar's Leak stopper or JB Weld help?



Thanks,

Dan
 
Dennis ,Sorry to hear about your your woes ,bummer indeed. Did you take it over to Steves in Woodland. Let us know the outcome. Good Luck!

Ian
 
Sorry to hear about your troubles. Cummins is a good company and I am optimistic for you and your truck!



Bought my 99 in May 1999... anyone know the VIN range of the bad blocks? I have 100,670 miles on mine now, so probably no help if something does happen!:--)
 
i'm not sure of the vin run. but my local dealer has seen 3. and we are a small town. if you do a search i'm sure you will find lots of info on it. i've heard the trucks that get run worked real hard are more likely to fail.



jim
 
I have posted this before on a thread that talked about early cracked 24v blocks. This is a response I found from a diesel tech. I though it was informative:



I have seen several of these 24 valves w/cracked blocks. Mileages from 30k to 120k. This cracking is due to inherent vibrations of 24 valve engine along with the fact that the cyl block is only 6mm thick at area where water jacket opens up to outside of block, normally block will crack at right rear side of engine just below frost plugs. Coolant will fester from block, usually will not have instant loss of coolant, it will progress to leaking worse and worse as time goes on. Have only seen a few bad blocks in the Dodges, most failures have been in buses or medium duty truck applications. Blocks were beefed up to 12mm of material at right side of block. Some pattern 54 blocks still may not be 12mm. Block has a stamping near power steering pump area, 53,54,55



So what he's is saying is the blocks with the 53 cast pattern are the thin ones to watch out for, and that some of the early 54 castings might be susceptable also. He even says where to find the cast pattern number.



-Mike
 
Originally posted by CUMINNTSTRKN

I've heard the trucks that get run/worked real hard are more likely to fail.



Well, that counts me out! :D





(just thought I'd mention it before Mike and Jim thought of it)
 
anyone got the data on the VIN range? I did a search and read all the posts, but didn't see the range or where to locate it.
 
Ouch! Mine is a 53!

I just crawled underneath the truck and what do I see staring me in the face? A big fat "53"! Now I am paranoid because the Comp Box is going in this Sunday... . :( :eek: :--)
 
It is on the driver's side front lower corner of the block in pretty big numbers. (1"?) Look right above where the oil pan is connected to the engine. You can only see it from under the truck, and it is slightly in front of the power steering pump.....



Let me know if you still can't find it. :D
 
I just looked under my '99 3500 and found myself in the 53 club. Does anyone know how thick the older 12V blocks were in this area? Possibly Cummins may have used the same mold dimensions from the old 12V motors when they tooled up to make the 24V? Could it have been that the old 12V limited RPM range kept it together? That would kind of point to the higher revs of the 24V contributing to the crack. Or on the other hand, would lugging the engine with lots of hp available(mods) create some harsh torque spikes that may be contributing to the crack also since it also seems to contribute to the 5th gear nut?



Just throwing out some ideas to think on.
 
The 12v and 24v block are the same and interchangeabel

higher rpms is not the cause. the ones i seen break are in school buses. that only turn 2600 rpms.

It is cause by thermal expansion.



Hard accelarations for short bursts moderate to heavy loads.

as a bus does between stops.
 
Just wondering again: the rear cylinders run a little hotter egt wise than the front ones do because of the intake manifold being biased toward the front cylinders. Also, it might be wise to make sure that we stay away from overheating scenarios. My engine calls for a 180 degree thermostat while the later engines call for a 190 or 195, I believe.



Would anyone recommend any coolant additives to enhance heat transfer such as "water wetter" or the stuff the Ford guys use to prevent cavitation erosion? I think both of these products are supposed to reduce the surface tension of the water to enhance heat transfer. Or, maybe our mighty 5. 9 has an inherent water flow problem in that part of the block. Who knows, just some more ideas to think on.
 
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