crossover steering setup

[McGivern]

Hello,

I was interested in going to the crossover steering setup on my 92 W250 since I had the steering box off. After searching the thread I decided to try it. When I bolted up to check the length of the new steering shaft to be made, I notice that it would hit the front stabilizer bar. I am reluctant to remove the front stabilizer bar. Anyone installed one on a truck with the front stabilizer bar? If so, what did you do?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[Flexiheep]

I was almost ready to do the Xover on mine, but with the swaybar in the way I decided not to. The other thing I was kinda worried about was the draglink clearance on the pass side under compression. I am pretty sure it would fit, but at least off road it would be pretty close with a stock suspension.

On a side note I run unloaded without the swaybar attached (easier than putting it on and off every time I hit the dirt), it leans a little more than with it, but with the nice stiff springs in the back it isn't bad. I would make sure I hooked it back up before I put a load on it though.

I am sure there is a swaybar out there that could be mounted up and work with the Xover steering, but I didn't care enough to figure it out. I try to save my major mods for my old Jeep and keep the truck "normal".

If you make it work, be sure to let us know how it went, I like pictures.

 

[TKingsbury]

Why do you want to go crossover? Do you want full high steer? Do you have bump steer problems now? I'm just curious why you want it.

Travis. .

 

[desertrat1]

I ran my Xover steering without a stabilizer bar for awhile because the stock one hit the pitman arm. I am now using one from an early eighties GM 4x4 that is 1 1/4"in dia. My ride quality is unchanged with the bar on, other than it's noticibly more stabil.

I'll post some pics of how I mounted the GM bar up.



As for the length of the steering shaft, just use the 2x4 shaft or cut yours down 3 1/2"(I think?).



If you do decide to go Xover, your turning radius is almost half that of stock and bump steer is completely gone. Remember to brace the frame at the steering box somehow, it will flex quite alot if you don't.

 

[Lock93]

... your turning radius is almost half that of stock...





That's reason enough for me if the cost is reasonable. I'd be very interested in seeing your set up and the pros and cons of the change. any trouble areas to consider? How did you brace the frame at the steering box?

 

[McGivern]

I want to see the pics with the GM sway bar as well. In my research I saw where a guy cut the ears off the factory bracket for the 4X4 location and then mounted it inside the frame rail to stiffen the frame; seems like a good approach to me unless you want to completely fab a new one.

Mark

 

[TKingsbury]

... your turning radius is almost half that of stock...





That's reason enough for me if the cost is reasonable. I'd be very interested in seeing your set up and the pros and cons of the change. any trouble areas to consider? How did you brace the frame at the steering box?

It's not terribly reasonable if only for turning radius. Also, I don't think you could do it with a non lifted truck (no crossmember clearance). You need a 2wd steering box with correct pitman arm, high-steer arm (or arms), and material for new draglink. It can run into alot of cash. I put p/s and full high steer on my Samurai when I put in the Toyota axles, not cheap by any means.

Travis. .

 

["Mad Max"]

Fellas -



I'm learning more about steering as well - Is crossover steering the application where, on a 4x4 at least, you remove the drag link bewteen the steering box pitman arm and the axle steering knuckle, move the pitman arm 90* on the box, and fabricate/attach a 'drag link' that is about as long and closely resembles the main steering link that runs alongside the front of the axle connecting the two hubs together? If so I'm also going to do a setup closely resembling that. I'd be interested in any feedback on how it works, any bumbsteer or death wobble.

- Sam

 

[Lock93]

It's not terribly reasonable if only for turning radius. Also, I don't think you could do it with a non lifted truck (no crossmember clearance). You need a 2wd steering box with correct pitman arm, high-steer arm (or arms), and material for new draglink. It can run into alot of cash. I put p/s and full high steer on my Samurai when I put in the Toyota axles, not cheap by any means.

Travis. .

Well, I'm in this truck for long haul, and I previously owned a '99 Superduty which had a terrible turning radius, then an '02 Dodge CTD which had a very good turning radius, and now my '93 which turns a tad worse than the Furd. I got at least 6 years more into this truck (unless I win the lottery), and I drive it everyday so it may be worth it to me. Really depends on the value of the conversion. It may cost a lot (I don't know yet), but I may still find it valuable.



How much lift is req'd to clear it? That alone may kill it for me since I haul and slide in camper a few times a year.

 

[TKingsbury]

Well, I went out and looked at my truck closer so here goes. My truck has 2. 5/3 inches of lift (not sure, I bought it this way) enough to just clear 35s. The first problem I see is the steering box is too high to turn the pitman arm, the arm is above the bottom of the frame. The box would need to be lowered, or a 2wd box installed. Then you will have to buy an arm to bolt to the top of the passenger side kingpin for the drag link to hook to. At a bare minimun looking at my truck, you would have to trim off the forward flange of the crossmember under the engine to make room for the drag link. I would think a minimum of 4 inches of lift would be in order if you didn't want to do a lot of hacking. Then you would have to buy or have someone make you a drag link to fit. There is also the swaybar issue, either remove or relocate. This wouldn't be a job to rush into. I've been around alot of "extreme" 4x4s and have seen the results of poor planning. There are lots of clearance issues with these set-ups that need to be understood. I've also seen cross over/ high steer adversly affect turning radius. It depends on the lenght of the arms you use and the length of your pitman arm. Currently my truck has a "lift block" under the left kingpin cap to correct for the lift and my truck turns VERY good to the left and ok to the right. I can make a u-turn from the center lane if there are 2 lanes going the other way. Hope this helps.

Travis. .

 

[MMiller]

I just put the crossover back on my 75 tonight. It has a 4" lift, but it sets about the same as my 93 does. I had to cut a large hole in the crossmember under the engine to allow for clearance. When flexing it off road the crossover would hit the frame and then I could not steer. Not fun. I used the stock box, removed the plate from behind the box and mounted it just like a 2wd. I had to shorten the steering shaft, or you could use one from a 2wd. You can get pitman arms with 2. 5" or 4" drop. With my 4" lift a 4" drop pitman arm hit the leaf spring off road. The 2. 5 works great, does not hit the spring, but then the crossover is higher and hits the frame, thus the hole.



I have a locker in the front of my 75. The steering on and off road is completely 100% better with the crossover then with the stock setup. The first day I had the crossover on I steered with one finger all day, off road, lockers and 35" mud tires, but it hit the leaf springs. I put the steering back stock for the next day wheeling. The truck would not turn very far to the right, and not nearly as far to the left as it did the day before. Instead of one finger it was both hands steering.



I took the crossover off this summer to put the stock springs back in the front. This was done for truck pulling, giving the truck some rake, and better wieght transfer to the front. Now that truck pulling is over this year, I am putting the truck back on the trail for the fall. Hopefully after this winter the 75 will be replaced on the trail by the 90.



Tommorrow I will get my pics resized and get them posted on here, hopefully. As long as my patience isn't overwhelmed by dialup, too large of pics, and whatever else. Wish me luck.



Michael

 

[Lock93]

This wouldn't be a job to rush into. I've been around alot of "extreme" 4x4s and have seen the results of poor planning. There are lots of clearance issues with these set-ups that need to be understood. I've also seen cross over/ high steer adversly affect turning radius. It depends on the lenght of the arms you use and the length of your pitman arm. Currently my truck has a "lift block" under the left kingpin cap to correct for the lift and my truck turns VERY good to the left and ok to the right. I can make a u-turn from the center lane if there are 2 lanes going the other way. Hope this helps.

Travis. .

I'm with you 100%. Like I said, I'm in it for the long haul, so if it doesn't work out the first time, I'm in trouble since this is my daily driver.

Anyone know if a "kit" exists for this like the Furd Superduty's (can't remember who is selling that kit). Anyway, I'll do a lot more research and sould searching before jumping into this, but it sounds promising if ~ 4" lift is all that is req'd to avoid cutting crossmembers and such. 2wd parts are fairly reasonable to come by, so that doesn't seem overly daunting either.

Look forward to seeing the pics.

Thanks

 

[Paychk]

These may help:



http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?board=&action=howtoshow;id=21

http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?board=&action=howtoshow;id=56

http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/steering/highsteer.htm

http://www.offroaddesign.com/Dana44crossover.htm

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

 

[MMiller]

Here goes. These are pics of the crossover on my 75. All these pics are with the suspension at full droop(ie axel hanging on springs). Notice the torched hole in the crossmember above the drag link. This truck has 4" of lift on it but it sits just like my 93 sits. I used the stock 4X4 steering box, just relocated it to 2wd postion. The holes are already there. I took a 4X4 steering shaft and shortened, but I suspect a 2wd one will work just fine. I got the arm on the passenger side from Spider Customs, along with the parts to make up the drag link. The steering arms came from Skyjacker I believe. I am currently using the 2. 5" drop arm, as the 4 inch one hits the leaf spring off road.

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[boatpuller]

Looking at the pictures it looks like you could make the drag link with 2 bends in it so it was parallel with the axle until it went under the crossmember and then bend it up and then back down so it goes parallel to the axle again where it goes between the frame and spring. Then you wouldn't have to cut the crossmember, I know it wouldn't be quite as strong but you could make it out of heavier material if need be.



Just a thought,



Caleb

 

[MMiller]

I'll get the truck back on the ground and compess the suspension and click off some more pic. I don't lke the idea of having the drag link bent, but I have seen it before. It was easier to cut the crossmember. When I get to the 90, I was thinking of replacing the crossmember with some tube. That way I could get the room to run complete high steer setup.



Michael

 

[TKingsbury]

I'm with Michael, I don't think bends in the drag link are good. Lots of people do it, but I think the straighter the better. That is cool that you can remove the plate behind the box and bolt it back on, I wasn't sure if it would bolt up. The biggest issue it seems is the crossmember and if you are going to do it yourself, or pay someone to do it ($$$). If all you want it crossover draglink, the price wont be too bad, if you want full highsteer the price will go up quite a bit.

Travis. .