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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission D80 carrier bearings

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission No Heat??

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) why no blow-off valves?

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I did my latest 100k mile oil change in the D80 today and decided that at 358k miles I better pull the caps and check for spun races. Sure enough the left side that gets most of the pressure had spun a little so I figured I better pull the carrier out and check the bearings and preload. The thing slipped right out with no spreader or pry bars, meaning it had little or no preload. Bearings didn't look too bad other then the left one was starting to flake a tiny bit around the outer edge due to the lack of preload and the carrier trying to go sidewasy a little
putting a lot of force on the outside of the bearing. The mating ends of a few of the rollers had also lost a few small falkes. My backlash was . 011 when I started and I ended with . 009 after new bearings and . 005 shims added to each side for preload. I was hoping for a little closer backlash but that's within spec. I used setup bearings to get it close and had . 007 then but after the new bearings went on with the added preload shims it changed a little. I feel better knowing it's tight again and won't be ruining the carrier or housing in the future. It appears that it never was tight enough to start with because it slid in and out easy even with the setup bearings and original shims.
 
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It is always a good idea to take the caps to a flat belt sander to take a couple thousanths off them for a bit more clamping force especially if it was already spun in. Just a trick of the trade from working at a gear shop for a few years.
 
You know, I thought about doing that at one point along the way and then in the end I forgot but thanks for reminding me. I will let it run for now as I don't think it will be a problem now that it's tight but at my next oil change I should for sure do it.
 
Taking those caps to a flat belt sander is the same as doing it by hand. Machine them and you will have no problems. Ever flat belt sand an exhaust manifold? Someone did that to my 360cid on my motorhome. I had them machined, and you wouldn't believe the difference it made... you could see the low and high spots that were on them.
 
Taking those caps to a flat belt sander is the same as doing it by hand. Machine them and you will have no problems. Ever flat belt sand an exhaust manifold? Someone did that to my 360cid on my motorhome. I had them machined, and you wouldn't believe the difference it made... you could see the low and high spots that were on them.



You have a good point here, But it is different comparing a sealing surface like an exhaust manifold to a couple of ears on a cap. And by doing it on a belt sander you can get them a bit flatter and done quicker than by hand. Unless you were talking about maybe a diegrinder with a scotchbrite pad or other abrassive type wheel. But even then you are not getting it real flat.

Besides we are only talking about a couple thou. and the housings are not ever perfect either. That is why they need to be set up by shimming. to make up for differences.
 
I have an 02 D80 and changed from 3. 54 to 4. 10. The left side was exactely as yours, not assembled correctly to start with, not preloaded correctly. My left side had "spun" some on the inner race at 72k I think primarily while towing only. I replaced the whole carrier. This is just primarily a "me to" reply.



Bob Weis
 
Lucky for me it had not gotten bad enough to loosen up on the carrier. My cousin's '97 got loose there and smashed all the shims out on the left side and then really got loose. His pinion was also loose. Some are surly not setup correctly to start with so I think it pays in the long run to have a look while changing oil. If a person is not working it hard as I have been it would probably run in a light to no preload state for a long time and not really cause any problems.
 
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