Dead Pedal and a very unsettling trip home

[JeepBuilder]

Good to know Scott. Thanks for that. I have been running the symptoms from memory and trying to reason it out. This is indeed frustrating.
*******

So I mentioned posting where I found the grounds. Maybe it will help someone later. I had to look very closely with a headlamp and a flashlight. I never made it to the inside of the cab. Just engine bay, engine and frame. Dielectric gel was put on every cleaned ground.
Here goes...

Drivers side frame rail on the side by the front tire several inches back from the bumper mount. big 10 GA? I thought this was it. terminal landed on paint and very rusty threads on fastener. Made it all shine to raw metal.
Engine block front by the timing cover drivers side just above the oil pan. (Huge maybe 1 ought gauge)
Engine block below ECM behind starter solenoid
On the starter itself
Body cab to bed metal passenger side lower (this was missing but terminals were there. New tinned marine wire made and installed)
Drivers rear frame above axle for towing plug (possibly not OEM)
Neg terminal inside under hood fuse block
Drivers side below battery multiple grounds on fender skirt near headlight connector
Drivers side just above headlight connector
Drivers side next to washer fill cap in plain view up top (possibly added and not OEM)
Passenger side same position near radiator cap (possibly not OEM)
Passenger side behind battery on inner fender
PCM ground above turbo on firewall hidden under rear hood cowl seal
PCM ground other end on PCM body side closest to engine
Drivers side front of bed on hat channel under floor for trailer connector for camper in bed plug (add on non OEM)

I may have missed some. I looked very carefully from many angles.

 

[JeepBuilder]

All credit for the following goes to Mopar1973man. I will only buy from a company that has the ability to calibrate what they build. The two companies I mentioned and most others are just resellers with mark up. Blue chip mentioned needed to build some premium pumps this weekend. I would put money down they don't have the Bosch 815 test and calibration stand to fine tune their work. Sorry but at nearly double the costs from the certified builders, I am glad to have found the information I did. And, my new APPS from Geno's showed up two hours ago.

From Mopar1973man.

Bosch Certified VP44 Injection Pump Rebuilders

This write-up is to list out all Bosch Certified injection pump builders who have an on-site Bosch 815 injection pump stand for testing and calibration Bosch VP44 injection pumps found on the Cummins Turbo Diesel. This is to educate Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel owners who there is only a handful of companies have the proper tooling for rebuilding Bosch VP44 injection pumps. This is not to steer you away from different vendors or dealers but to educate you to the fact, there is actually very few VP44 shops that do in-house rebuilding and calibration of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm hoping with this article it will enlighten you enough to ask questions of the source of the Bosch VP44 injection pump, warranties, etc. This means there are a lot of vendors / dealers out there that are not tooled up for handling Bosch VP44 Injection pump rebuilding nor calibration. Now why there are so few shops that have a Bosch 815 test bench is because of the price, The Bosch 815 test stand are about $225,000.00 to purchase the Bosch 815 test stand. The Bosch License to do VP44 pump remanufacturing work is close to 1 million dollars from what I've been told by one injection shop I spoke to. This was the reason why most injection shop does not handle VP44 remanufacturing because of the pure price you must pay to become a Bosch Certified Rebuilder.

• Midwest Fuel injection
• Industrial Injection
• O-F-I (Oregon Fuel Injection)
• Jasper Engines
• Diesel Fuel Injection Rebuild Center
• Central Motive Power
• ProDiesel
• Diesel Forward (Diesel Injection Service)
• Dixie Diesel

 

[JeepBuilder]

I have not had a chance to do much more. I did find a sub menu on my code reader that showed a Chrysler engine scan. It would not link despite several attempts. So I was able to finally put a new chrome grill on. That should make it run better right??
I did order a remanufactured VP44 from OFI or Oregon Fuel Injection. 1566.00 with a 4 hundred core charge. Because I have a wire tap on the VP44 computer I may not get back 75 of the core refund. This is what I learned. When looking for a VP44 and it says wire tap VOIDS the warranty, it has the old style head in the pump. This is common at many shops. When you find a pump that says wire tap OK and it will not void the warranty, that means it has the latest style head that has a groove(s?) cut in the head or case that relieve the excess fuel pressure from a tuner commanding way higher fuel pressures. You still get the increase in performance but damage to the VP44 that I understand can happen is mitigated by the pressure relief groove(s). That is what was explained to me on the two phone calls to OFI. So wanting to have the choice to run a tuner later, I accepted the slightly higher expense. Just passing this stuff along to the masses. The one thing besides finding old car parts that I appreciate about the internet. Learning shared information. Cheers all.

 

[JeepBuilder]

I am waiting on the arrival of the updated VP44. My plans are to replace the APPS and injection pump. Since I believe the problem shows when temps are up, I am doubting that I will be able to report success without summer heat. It is getting cold here and the truck gets parked for winter typically. I will follow up with this eventually. Any ah-ha discoveries will get posted. Thanks for all the input and help so far.

 

[JeepBuilder]

My remanufactured VP44 has arrived. I am waiting on a barring tool for rotating the engine to place the IP keyway at the 12 noon position to keep the key from dropping in the timing cover. I have a question. My tuner wire just about fell off when I disconnected it for troubleshooting. Plus I automatically loose 75 bucks from my core return from a tapped wire. Has anyone used the Stealth cover that provides a much more reliable post for a ring eye terminal? And does not cut the wire insulation for a tuner tap. I am considering adding it to the VP44.
This one...

https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/1050201/

It seems like a good idea to me. I am just wondering if there have been any issues with it.

 

[DavidC]

Never heard of any issues.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Put a socket n ratchet on Altenator bolt. Turn away!

 

[JeepBuilder]

I had read about the alternator bolt. I probably would have just done that but I also would like to install a fluidampr that has been on my bench for a little to long. The flywheel insert will help hold the engine while I torque the bolts on the fluidampr. The OTC tool arrived today. So all I am really waiting on is the top stealth cover. If all goes well, I will have a reman VP44, a new APPS, I should really take the time to also install a new steering column lower bushing I bought as it has developed a very annoying rattle or clunk recently. That and a vacuum pump reseal kit needs to go in. I hope to get it all done before salt gets put on our roads. I park the truck for the winter unless the roads are bone dry. Where did the summer go?

 

[DavidC]

I had read about the alternator bolt. I probably would have just done that but I also would like to install a fluidampr that has been on my bench for a little to long. The flywheel insert will help hold the engine while I torque the bolts on the fluidampr. The OTC tool arrived today. So all I am really waiting on is the top stealth cover. If all goes well, I will have a reman VP44, a new APPS, I should really take the time to also install a new steering column lower bushing I bought as it has developed a very annoying rattle or clunk recently. That and a vacuum pump reseal kit needs to go in. I hope to get it all done before salt gets put on our roads. I park the truck for the winter unless the roads are bone dry. Where did the summer go?

Still 100+ here. We do not salt tho, except steak, hamburgers etc. Good luck with your projects, you have a lot to do.

 

[JeepBuilder]

Still 100+ here. We do not salt tho, except steak, hamburgers etc. Good luck with your projects, you have a lot to do.

You must be down south. We never broke a 100 this summer. We usually do for a week or two. I am about 40 miles from Canada. The winters offer 3-5 feet of snow. And waaay to much road salt. I see newer Dodges with holes in them. That's why I park mine for winter. It is in better than average condition and I hope to keep it that way. I just squirted 3M Cavity wax inside the doors. Good stuff.

The Dodge is in the shop and the hood is up. Waiting on the Stealth cover. I got some good time in today on a restomod Jeep M715 military truck I am building. The days are not long enough.

 

[NIsaacs]

You might consider changing out your tappet cover gasket while you are that close.

 

[DavidC]

You might consider changing out your tappet cover gasket while you are that close.

That would be a very good idea. And use the yellow weather strip adhesive recommended by the forum.

 

[JeepBuilder]

I will have a look at the tappet cover. If it is the yellow 3M adhesive you are referring to, that stuff is tenacious. I just put all new weatherstripping on all 5 doors on a 70 wagoneer restoration using that. Everything 3M makes works and is very reliable. The list gets longer.

 

[DavidC]

I will have a look at the tappet cover. If it is the yellow 3M adhesive you are referring to, that stuff is tenacious. I just put all new weatherstripping on all 5 doors on a 70 wagoneer restoration using that. Everything 3M makes works and is very reliable. The list gets longer.

That's the stuff. So I understand it keeps the gasket in place while tightening the cover. Of course you have used it and know what it is like.

 

[JeepBuilder]

I typically paint it on with a short bristle flux brush for soldering work. You have to throw it away when done. So if I don't have leaks on my gasket, does that mean I will eventually? I understand the preventative approach. I will go have a look.

 

[DavidC]

I typically paint it on with a short bristle flux brush for soldering work. You have to throw it away when done. So if I don't have leaks on my gasket, does that mean I will eventually? I understand the preventative approach. I will go have a look.

Someone here developed a leak I think a few weeks after doing the gasket and had to take it all apart again. So I understand you use it on the cover, let it set up then install cover. Not a job I would want to do more than once since the VP needs to be removed.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

I used the same when I did the tappet cover on the '99 and I let it setup overnight. I highly recommend you do this while everything is apart and as you know, replacing the VP is no joy ride so I would do it while you're there.

 

[JR]

So if I don't have leaks on my gasket, does that mean I will eventually? I understand the preventative approach. I will go have a look.

In short, yes you will. When those leaks show up is the only question. It's generally a combination of time (engine hours) and heat cycles. The tappet cover gasket gets hard and brittle with time and heat cycles. Gasket tension eventually decreases as the gasket hardens and shrinks until a leak forms. This leak can be as small as a few drops to completely dumping the entire sump in a matter of minutes once a section of the gasket pushes out under oil pressure. It's not alot of work and even less money since you will already be into the VP.

I don't know your location but you mentioned salt. I've seen a couple of these covers that were in bad condition. They aren't very thick and can be compromised from the elements. Be sure to have a good look at the exterior including the gasket surface. As has been stated it's not a job you want to do over again.

 

[BoeingDiesel]

What JR said^^^. Mine started as a drip..then a drip drip...then the flood gate opened.

 

[BigPapa]

Someone here developed a leak I think a few weeks after doing the gasket and had to take it all apart again.

This is the thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/oil-leak.269942/