2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission death wobble, pulling right, etc.

[cluckmaster]

I have read a ton of posts on the death wobble and front end problems, but I'm not sure what I should do here. My truck was pulling really hard to the right when I braked, and also I was getting a lot of wobble. My right tie rod looked bad so I replaced it w/ a stock tie rod. I then added a Lukes Link to the trac bar. It smoothed out for a little while, but now it's pulling to the right again, and wobbling bad as I brake. The steering wheel also jerks back and forth as I brake, and I'm getting a serious death wobble pretty often. The steering stabilizer shock is shot, so I'm going to replace that, and the other tie rod, then have it balanced and aligned. Here are my questions:



1. Can I put a dual steering stabilizer shock on this or do I have to use a single?

2. Should I be replacing the tie rod with something other than stock?

3. Any other suggestions for what could be causing this would be appreciated.



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped

 

[JayWm]

What, if anything have you done about the brake pull? You should address this. It sounds like you have warped the front rotors (the shaking wheel while braking) If you have several pieces of the steering linkage this will contribute to the wobble. Air pressure will have significant impact as well. Air those front tires up, way up. What is the load rating and max air pressure rating for your tires?



Since you have 35" tires, do you have a lift of any kind? Lastly if you want another opinion call Kore or DRC.



Jay

 

[cluckmaster]

3000 lbs @50 psi Load rating D. I have no lift, but the tires don't rub. I'm thinking about putting on a 2 1/2 " leveling kit. I put on brand new rotors and pads less than a year ago, so I didn't think the brakes would be the problem. Can they warp that fast? I put on about 25-30k mi / yr.



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped

 

[jabsim3]

Yes, rotors can warp that fast. I wasted my rotors in 7 months on my truck. Found I needed to adjust the rear brakes mor often. Now, every two weeks I back up in front of my house going over 15 mph and hot the brakes to adjust the rears. Since doing that my brakes have lasted much longer. I also bought more expensive rotors and pads.



Have only experienced the death wobble once. My neighbor replaced entire steering system. to get rid of his wobble.

 

[JayWm]

I would try airing the tires up to the max. Yes you can warp the rotors in that short period of time. Inexpensive rotors and pads are more prone to this. Not machining the rotors when new can contribute to this. I would not lift it until you resolve your wobble issue. A lift will most likely make it worse. Based on your earlier posts, I do think you have a brake problem of some kind. Pulling to the right and steering wheel shaking under braking indicate this. I would suggest having the rotors machined with an on car brake lathe such as the "Pro-Cut 9. 0" I'd also suggest finding a shop that is knowledgeable on front ends to inspect it. I suspect that you most likely have a number of small issues contributing to the problem.



Are all of your problems occuring only while braking?

 

[MBreyer]

Consider checking the luks link. we just chucked 2 track bars w/ LL's. and replaced them with Don's track bar (ThurenManufacturing.com)

THis was a huge help (THis was after killing the DW, helped with better steering).



Second, check your front shocks. replacing my shot ones with Bilstein 5100's killed the DW.



Finally, a leveling kit may actually make it more touchy to DW issues...



Hope this helps



~Matt

 

[Dave M]

I have read a ton of posts on the death wobble and front end problems, but I'm not sure what I should do here. My truck was pulling really hard to the right when I braked, and also I was getting a lot of wobble. My right tie rod looked bad so I replaced it w/ a stock tie rod. I then added a Lukes Link to the trac bar. It smoothed out for a little while, but now it's pulling to the right again, and wobbling bad as I brake. The steering wheel also jerks back and forth as I brake, and I'm getting a serious death wobble pretty often. The steering stabilizer shock is shot, so I'm going to replace that, and the other tie rod, then have it balanced and aligned. Here are my questions:



1. Can I put a dual steering stabilizer shock on this or do I have to use a single? 2. Should I be replacing the tie rod with something other than stock?

3. Any other suggestions for what could be causing this would be appreciated.



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped

I have a 97 3500 and it has two seperate steering stabilizers on it that I just replaced with 2 Ranch RS 5000 stabilizers from Summit



I found a TSB for earlier years that added a second stabilizer and it looks like the one on mine even though it was for 95-96. This looks like what was done to my truck. The TSB is "TSB 10-05-96" titled "Shimmy after Striking a Bump or Pothole"



www.dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/19-05-96.htm



To see a pic of my stabilizers here is a link to a thread of mine which shows them with the red boots on:



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144154&page=2&pp=5&highlight=steering+stabilizer



Rancho offered a Dual Stabilizer bracket but I don't know if it would fit. New stabilizers made a big difference in my steering.



Dave

 

[cluckmaster]

"Are all of your problems occuring only while braking?"



Mostly, but if the steering wheel is held straight, it veers to the right while just driving along, and it also has gone into a pretty hard wobble once at about 50 mph when I hit a railroad track.



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped

 

[cluckmaster]

So I can have my current rotors machined and salvage them? Or do I need to buy a new set? Any suggestions on who makes really good, heavy duty rotors and pads?



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped

 

[biggy238]

I a set of rotors too.



I installed a new set Apr. of '04..... Apr. '05 I was running around I640 in knoxville in a storm... Saw a HUGE pool of standing water and braked hard to keep from hydroplaning and crashing (water was more than a foot deep)



Braking hard got my rotors nice and hot and then I hit the water... ... warped instantly. $150 in rotors trashed in about 20 seconds.

 

[JayWm]

"Are all of your problems occuring only while braking?"



Mostly, but if the steering wheel is held straight, it veers to the right while just driving along, and it also has gone into a pretty hard wobble once at about 50 mph when I hit a railroad track.



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped

The wobble at speed after hitting bump is a really good indication that your track bar is not doing its job. The pull, well it could be a tire pull. To eliminate that, switch the right front tire with the left front tire. If the pull changes then its a tire causing it. If no change then its vehicle related. Could be a brake pull, front or rear brakes can cause this. Is there a spacer behind the right front wheel. Dodge started doing this to help with the pull. 2nd Gen dodges are known to exhibit a drift to the right. You could have worn ball joints. Depending on which axle yout truck has you amy be able to have a front end shop align it using caster/camber bushings to get a caster spread to allow the vehicle to track straight.

 

[JayWm]

So I can have my current rotors machined and salvage them? Or do I need to buy a new set? Any suggestions on who makes really good, heavy duty rotors and pads?



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped

You should have the rotors measured, if they are thick enough have them machined. I mentioned the "Pro-cut" brake lathe. This tool allows a shop to machine the rotors in place on the truck. This eliminates any rotor runout issues that can contribute to brake vibrations. I have had good luck with the Raybestos "blue box" rotors, also known as "oe spec" you can also you with Dodge rotors. Several here on TDR have used Hawk brake pads, Geno's sells them. I'm blanking on the brand of rotor that I've seen mentioned. Contact user Jelag, he is in the brake biz and has alot of experience with Dodge's. I think Performance Friction is the one I've seen mentioned.



Good luck,



Jay

 

[blmyachtsales]

I had worn eccentrics and bolts on lower controll arm. Not the only problem by a long shot but this did cause a cross caster problme and that caused the truck to favor one direction all the time. Also caused a caster shimmy (less dangerous death wobble)

 

[cluckmaster]

"The pull, well it could be a tire pull. To eliminate that, switch the right front tire with the left front tire. If the pull changes then its a tire causing it. If no change then its vehicle related. Could be a brake pull, front or rear brakes can cause this. Is there a spacer behind the right front wheel. "



Unfortunately I can't switch the front right for the front left b/c they're directional tires. There is a spacer behind the wheel.



Ok. Here's my plan so far- I'll throw on a new tie rod and steering stabilizer shock, then check my Luke's Link. Then I'll have my rotors turned or replace them, and have it aligned and balanced and have the caster set to positive 5*, then replace the front shocks with Bilsteins. It may just take a few weeks b/c I can't afford to do it all at once. Haha.

 

[Dave M]

"The pull, well it could be a tire pull. To eliminate that, switch the right front tire with the left front tire. If the pull changes then its a tire causing it. If no change then its vehicle related. Could be a brake pull, front or rear brakes can cause this. Is there a spacer behind the right front wheel. "



Unfortunately I can't switch the front right for the front left b/c they're directional tires. There is a spacer behind the wheel.



Ok. Here's my plan so far- I'll throw on a new tie rod and steering stabilizer shock, then check my Luke's Link. Then I'll have my rotors turned or replace them, and have it aligned and balanced and have the caster set to positive 5*, then replace the front shocks with Bilsteins. It may just take a few weeks b/c I can't afford to do it all at once. Haha.

I added the Lukes Link to my track bar in July and a few months later it was loose with a little up and down movement. Get under the truck and have someone move the steering wheel lock to lock and see if you see any movement in that link. There should be zero movement. Mine had about 1/4 inch movement. I removed the link and added a shim washer and put it back... then it was tight... no movement. Check the track bar on the axle end also as that has caused others problems.



I also had the right front lower caster eccentric bolt come loose (along with the loose Luke Link on the track bar) on mine which ruined a new tire in a few months.



The steering stabilizer and shocks seemed to help on mine, but the track bar will really make a difference. I used the OEM replacement Bilsteins front/rear (PN's 2549 & 2550) along with replacement of the control arm bushings and sway bar bushings.



Dave

 

[cluckmaster]

OK... finally got to do some work- pulled off the rotors and had them turned and put on some Hawk severe duty pads. Smoothed the wobble right out. I also ordered a "dual steering stabilizer kit" from Rancho, but it showed up w/ just one shock. Turns out that they only make single. Soooo. . called up a high end suspension company to check if they made a dual kit, and they don't even make a single for '97. They did inform me that Ranchos are crap and I am better off w/ OEM. They also said that dual kits are for show only. So I sent back the Rancho and picked up a NAPA kit. I'll throw it on this weekend and add a shim to the Luke's Link. While doing the brakes I discovered the rubber on the caliper pistons was dry rotted. Anyone know how long the calipers and lines go before needing replacement? Thanks everyone for all the help.



97 2500 4x4 SLT extended cab / 35'' MT Baja Claws / #8 plate / straight piped / all Amsoil/ 247,000 mi

 

[NVR FNSH]

Another thing to check is the axle shaft u-joint - might be contributing to the problem.



Side note:

The Power Shop, Enumclaw, WA, recommended the Dynatrac manual hub conversion kit for my dad's '96 instead of just replacing the axle shaft u-joint because it will eliminate the constantly turing axle shaft. The Power Shop claims, my dad is an incredibly anal mechanical engineer and he trusts the Power Shop, that the Dynatrac kit solved the pulling problem for one of their other customers. The Dynatrac kit isn't cheap but the cost isn't an issue for my father - he is willing to spend the money to improve the reliability of his truck.



Brian

 

[rivercat]

first- GOOD THREAD

I too am having front end woes, I get a pull to the left though. Checked the rear end it is sraight, I have broken blocks before but everything is good now. New Thoren T-bar stock one was tight but I needed the adjustiblity to center the front end from the lift. New centramatics switched tires on front and no change in the pull but seemed to shake worse-before Cmatics. Any ideas? ball joins seem tite but not sure would have to put the truck on slip disks to be sure right?

Anyone else belive in the "always run radials only one way for the life of them, or it will bust the belts" line the old timers say?


If you notice My sig says JUNKY lift is because Ever since I got it my truck has been all over the road the control arm bolts are forever coming loose the caster pins have come loose to the point of wearing slop into them -luckily they were painted with a yellow line to line them back up.

 

[rivercat]

Sorry to kill the tread Not sure a $1000+ hub kit is gona solve all my problems

 

[weshope]

I know this post is after the fact, but I too have had a hard pull to the right several times with my truck. The right rotor would really heat up and the left one was relatively cool. I measured using infrared temp gun. Both times, the LEFT brake caliper went bad. When stopping, if you let go of the wheel, it would turn to the right pretty hard. I guess you get what you pay for from AutoZone. If you do not address the pulling while braking issue and you have the same problem as me, then you will cook the wheel bearings in a short time. The heat removes all the grease and then you are done. New bearings, races and seals will fix the problem along with 2 calipers doing their job.