Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Decided on Formula 1 Diesel 'Mach 1.6' Fuel Injectors

[Sully5]

Looking for good advice from performance gurus on TDR. My truck is an '01 H.O. 6 speed that has one of those old Dyno Sources Power Buttons set at 30 and a K&N air filter; other than that its stock. There's 165,000 miles on the truck. Fuel pressure is at 8 PSI on idle so I have a FASS 95 GPH pump on order to fix that situation. But on the performance side, I have decided to use Formula 1 Diesel's Mach 1.6 Fuel Injectors. I don't want to go over 500 hp with my Power Button activated. But, my question though is really about moving air: once I install the injectors, will it be advisable to move to a 4 inch exhaust, even though the turbo and downpipe remain stock? Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[Sticks]

Loose the K&N filter and put in a BHAF. Better filtration, just as much flow if not more.

Stock turbo and 90hp injectors with a box you'll be fine. Next concern will be the clutch needing upgrading.

You won't get anywhere near 500hp with that turbo/injector/tuner combo. I had 100hp injectors, Edge EZ, Water/Meth injection and my best run with that combo on a stock turbo was 389hp and 892tq.

I have not dynoed my current configuration, but I should be close to the 500 mark. Lot of money has to be spent to break the 500 mark. The first 200 over stock is cheap and easy.

 

[Sully5]

Sticks thank you for your advice; your recommendation about the clutch needing attention was something I didn't think about. Sticks do you think a 4 inch exhaust upgrade would be advisable in addition to the BHAF air filter?

 

[Allnew2Me]

If you read my signature you will see that I have the same injectors along with some other things. With everthing listed I dyno at 385 at the wheels. To reach 500 you would need more fuel and a lot more air, the expensive part of the recipe. I am using the stock air filter and only rarely pull down the Filter-Minder, but a BHAF would be an arguable advantage. It is often said that the stock filter setup is good to 500 HP.

 

[Sticks]

I don't know that there are any appreciable gains to going 4" over the OEM 3.5", especially with a stock turbo and manifold.

If your long range plans are to get a larger turbo, then do the 4" now, along with a good 3 piece manifold, otherwise save your pennies for a clutch, ball joints, vacuum pump, oil changes, and tires.

 

[Sully5]

Allnew2Me, thanks for that info. I will have the FASS95 onboard soon and have also been considering Bilsteins. I think a better goal, considering how expensive this could get, would be just to shoot for the "cheaper and easier" 200 horsepower increase and call it good. The truck is used to pull a big 5th wheel (on occasion) over mountain passes up here in the cascades in Washington, but other than that she is pretty much a daily driver. Last time over the Snoqualmie pass in July though she really got into the red zone on my stock water temp guage. Its a stock radiator. Maybe one of those Mishimoto aluminum radiators would help with that.

 

[Sully5]

Sticks, thanks for that info. No, no plans right now for a larger turbo. I will probably just stick with my current 3 in. exhaust if the power increase of a 4 inch is negligible. The "rate of return" on the investment is probably just not worth it.

 

[PBJ2500CTD]

Sully5,

Before spending big bux on the radiator I would pull and clean your original. It is common for the fins to get coated with oil and dust gunk due to the location of the crankcase vent. My 98.5 had a bad case of heat spikes on any incline. Had the cooling systm flushed and a new thermostat installed with no effect to the heat spikes under load. The radiator looked clean and unobstructed from all angles when it was installed. When it was pulled you could see about 75% of the fin area was full of oily dust stuff. 15 minutes on the busy end of a pressure washer all was clear, and no more cooling issues. This past year, while driving up to the Eisenhower Tunnel on I-70, my 02's temp gauge crossed over the line and dinged with a check gauges light while pulling our travel trailer. This was a "first" for this trouble free vehicle with over 140,000 miles. We have driven much worse roads in tha past with no issues. Since it was time for a cooling system flush and t-stat (I do it every 3 years) I also had the radiator pressure washed. I let the dealer do it this time, due to some body parts (mine) no longer co-operating or operating as designed. I noticed a subtle positive difference in "normal" temp readings.

 

[Sully5]

Bruce, yes I will pull that radiator and pressure wash it; need to find more uses for that Costco pressure washer that sits around doing nothing most of the time anyway. Normally the temps are just fine, but I don't want to have another issue way up on I-90 traversing the pass and overheat the motor this time around. Have a good one...

 

[SnoKing]

Sully5, if you were closer, I would give you my BHAF. I am up in La Conner. Chris

 

[Sully5]

Chris, thanks for the offer. So, I take it you may not be using a BHAF; do you find a different set up works better on your rig? Right now I am running a K&N cone type filter...

 

[SnoKing]

I went back to stock filter because of turbo noise towimg with the BHAF. I am running around 325/650 RW, so stock works fine. Chris

 

[Sticks]

Chris, thanks for the offer. So, I take it you may not be using a BHAF; do you find a different set up works better on your rig? Right now I am running a K&N cone type filter...

I have yet to see an engine (turbo diesel) that is not getting dusted by using the oil type filters. Even the K&N oilless. If I could get rid of mine I'd do it in a second, but I am stuck with it due to the configuration of the twins.

NAPA 6637 or 2790. Online list price is spooky, but I have yet to pay more than $40.

 

[BDaugherty]

When i put jammer 2's in my 01 HO with stock turbo and edge juice, i was pretty disappointed. The power really didnt go up much at all...it just got hotter and smokier. Turbo upgrades would have been better for my truck before adding more fuel.
I was running a south bend con ofe and even though i sold the truck years ago, the truck is still running around with the same clutch and power parts.

 

[Sticks]

That is why most of the start up BOMBers start with a hybrid turbo or an HX40 after they get bored with the 100hp injectors.

Now days, with the 16 y/o engine design of the 2nd gens, you have to put in near $3k in upgrades just to match the new off the lot trucks. Only upside is that they are easier to work on.

I better stop now, otherwise I'm going to go on a rant about engineers and their designs.

 

[SnoKing]

Anyone can make power with a 24V engine! Now making power that you can use on an everyday bases to tow or work hard is a different animal. That's why my Comp wire has never touched the injection pump. Jammer 1's, timing from the comp, PDR35-12W, 4" Banks turbo mounted EB and 4" exhaust has worked pretty well to tow my 12.4K trailer for going on 10 years now.

Fixing the factory screwed up throttle cable length helped a lot years ago also. Cruise control had more go than the go pedal! A lot of second gens have/had this issue.

Chris

 

[Sticks]

IIRC when you hit the 350hp mark (about the time for a turbo upgrade), you need to decide if your are going for a race truck, or towing, and build around that. They do not go hand in hand.

 

[Sully5]

Good to get that feedback on your experience with the jammers and electronics minus turbo upgrade. I will reassess my path forward and consider saving up for a larger turbo, and going to the 3 piece manifold with a 4" exhaust early in the process as suggested by Sticks. I do not want to be too conservative and see no appreciable increase in power. All this feedback from those with experience with these rigs is just what I was hoping to get with my post, so thanks again.....

 

[Sully5]

Sticks: yes absolutely, I am doing planning early to meet the end goal which is to make power for towing and definitely not building a race truck. Holy cow this is going to get expensive I am seeing. But I really love this CTD truck, wish I would have gone diesel a long time ago.

 

[NIsaacs]

Sticks: yes absolutely, I am doing planning early to meet the end goal which is to make power for towing Holy cow this is going to get expensive

With a set of RV275's and an Edge EZ, stock everything else, my '01 Dyno's 335hp/852tq, it will pull hard. I would say about $1000.00 and includes pyro and boost gauges. I did the upgrade at 36,000 miles, it now has 220,000. I have never really wanted anymore, it is too dependable at this level.

Nick