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Disk Brake Pad Replacement - Heads Up

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Just wanted to give the group a quick heads up on replacing the disk brake pads. I had 86500 miles on the orginal pads and I though I had better change them. In measure the remaining pad thickness, they ranged from 11/32 to 13/32s, may have pulled them too soon, but as a full time RVer, don't often have a nice driveway that is smooth and convenient. So I took this opportunity to do them while at my son's house instead of some park on gravel.

The Service Manual does a fairly good job of explaining the process, but it does not mension how to "Compress Calipher Pistons" with the caliper attached. Also the passenger side caliphar is upside down from the driver's side caliper. That means Dodge makes one caliper and uses it on both sides. My 95 Dodge caliphers were mirror opposites (if I remember correctly). The point to all of this is when removing the caliper you need to pull out the top and lift up from the bottom of the caliper. So the top and bottom of the calipers are reversed between the driver and passenger side. Also be aware the "Anti Rattling Clip" are not interchangeable from top and bottom, so beware.

But all and all replacing the pads was not that diffecult, so all of the DIY's (Do It Yourselfers) out there, have no fear, save yourselves some money.

If any of you have a good way of "Compressing Caliper Pistons", would be interested in hearing your comments.

Travel Safely
 
Hercules130 said:
crack the bleeder screw and use a c-clamp, that always works for me, but i havn't done it on my truck yet

When you say crack your not kidding :{ Be aware that some of these bleeder screws are on very tight and might just break off!
 
Hercules130 said:
crack the bleeder screw and use a c-clamp, that always works for me, but i havn't done it on my truck yet



Are you required to open the bleeder screw or just simply close the caliper 'slowely' using a c-clamp or other?



I've never opened the bleeder screw on every car/truck I did and never had issues. Doesn't mean this is right... just that I never had problems. But I've heard some people say this may push brake fluid back into the proportionating (SP?) valve and damage it.
 
glav said:
Also the passenger side caliphar is upside down from the driver's side caliper. That means Dodge makes one caliper and uses it on both sides. My 95 Dodge caliphers were mirror opposites (if I remember correctly). The point to all of this is when removing the caliper you need to pull out the top and lift up from the bottom of the caliper. So the top and bottom of the calipers are reversed between the driver and passenger side.



That would mean the bleeder would be on the bottom on one side :confused:

Mine are definately different on the 2004. 5 - mirror image of one another...
 
I've always just used a clamp (or bare handed) the caliper to open it up.



glav... I'm curious if your truck may have just been put together wrong. I say this because in my experience with jeeps... the calipers have always been as you said mirror opposites. HOWEVER I just recently aquired another jeep (used)... and did a front brake job. Looked like the calipers were original... and they were identical as yours were instead of mirror opposite's as they should be. Granted this is a jeep and you were working on the dodge... but I'd be curious to see if anyone else has the same issue. Maybe they ran out of calipers that day? Also... I wonder if when you buy new calipers will they be this way?
 
The casting is identical side to side. However, it is machined for a left/right fit, the bleeder will be on top either side.
 
Bleeder has to be on top to bleed. I've seen someone with a no pedal condition that worked/messed/replaced parts for two days cause they put the calipers on wrong side? or upside down. They won't BLEED with it pointing down.
 
Is it a bad idea to do what I have been doing then? I always pop off the reservoir cap and then use a c-clamp to compress the caliper. That way there won't be a pressure build up, instead the excess fluid just gets pushed back into the reservoir.
 
HOBrian said:
When you say crack your not kidding :{ Be aware that some of these bleeder screws are on very tight and might just break off!

Must be the oil filter guy multi tasking again!! :-laf :D
 
A little trick i have used is before trying to open the bleeder, give it a couple of smacks with a ball peen hammer. Then try and open. This has worked for me with great success. But there has still been a couple of times when a little heat was needed. As far as the calipers being mirror identical, that would have mean't that the bleeder was at the bottom. I think if you look again, you will find that is not the case.
 
Resurfacing The Rotors?

When you change the pads, before they are completely worn out & have scored the rotors, do you have to resurface the rotors or just install new pads?



Joe F. (Buffalo)
 
Joe, I've always gone by if you don't have any deep scratches and no pulsating pedal or anything just throw a set of pads at it. Now watch everyone say you should have them turned, but hey, why take off any metal if you don't have too. New pads will work better on a freshly ground rotor though. And... . Happy new Years to ya' Joe !! and evryone else!!
 
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