Off Roading divorced t-case???

[mjoppie]

but i am also doing this to keep the driveshaft angles at a minimum. right now it has 10-12" of lift and might be getting bigger yet. puts a hel of a bind on a front driveshaft at that angle. and this is the 2nd or third i have done it to. kinda a reaccuring problem. so i was looking for brute strength for some sled pulling, and silverlake baha this summer.

 

[TKingsbury]

If you run a divorced case, I don't think the CTM or Ox u-joints are designed for driveshaft applications. They use solid bushings instead of roller bearings. It would be wise to contact them directly and see what they say before you use them in a non-axle application. If front driveshaft bind is a problem, why not get a new driveshaft made with a high angle C. V. ? There are solutions to your problem if you are otherwise happy with your current t-case.

Travis. .

 

[mjoppie]

i will definitly get a hold of them and find out if i can use them for that. i had one of those "bad boy 80*" driveshafts on the front at the time the second one blew up and it didnt seem to work very well so i traded it to a friend.

 

[pwerwagn]

No, OX or CTM will not work in that condition. Run a pair of good spicer 1410 u-joints and you should be fine. The rear of your truck uses 1410's, and it sees the low range of the x-case. The short shaft will never see the torque of low range because it is upstream. The 205 is bulletproof. That is the only part that has not broke on my 74 dodge (its even broke one detroit). It has stood up to some horrible abuse. I however, am unhappy with the low range. I have an auto in it, though. I also run 40's on it. There is a company coming out with a 3:1 low range for the 205 here soon, but it is sorta pricey. I am going to leave them nameless for now, I am not sure whether they want the info released or not. Some 205's have a larger input than others, and also a larger output for the front. I think the good one has a 32 spline input, but I could be wrong. Another tip, make sure the mounts you make for it are good. Even the stock mounts on my 74 were iffy at best. I had to bolt a shock between the case/frame to keep it from moving under full power. I too have used the high angle CV's. I had decent luck with them, but man are they expensive. If I were in your shoes, I would do the 205 swap also, and the 3:1 when it comes out. Especially if you're gonna sled pull.

 

[mjoppie]

yeah, thats basicly why im doing this. i think the t-case will be strong enough, im using 1/2 firetruck frame and 2 1/4" tubing to brace it with. i might need to get some biggert input yokes to run the bigger joints i think mine are 1310 or 1350. i dont do a lot of sledpulling just a local fairs and that is a cakewalk compared to a lot of them. i am shooting for 550-600 hp range so i dont see lower gears being that important, but i will see with time. yes that bad boy head alone was $500 i think someday i want to find some 2 1/2 rockwells and some 46" xml's where would i get the bigger yokes?

 

[mjoppie]

one thing i forgot to ask, does the 2wd transmission have a u-joint yoke ar a spline shaft at the end of the transmission? i mean am i gonna have a slip yoke on the transmission and a u-joint on the case? i have never looked at a 2wd transmission so i am not sure what it looks like. i think that would be a little easier than using the old high boy driveshaft, will my stock 4wd driveshaft slide into a 2wd tailhousing?

 

[pwerwagn]

Im pretty sure it does have a slip yoke, like your 241. Im not a big 2wd guy, so dont quote me. I believe your best bet for 1410 yokes would be either randys ring and pinion or maybe DTS. They both are great to deal with. You can also get the 2-ton front output from randys, I believe. Also try Boyce. They may have parts lying around.

heck ya, 2. 5 tons and 46's would be bad. Were putting unimog axles in a 4-runner right now with 46's. Some pretty meaty tires. But they are still small next to a 49" IROK!!!

 

[mjoppie]

yeah, i couldnt imagine running 49's, i went and looked at some off road crane axles and 48s and they were huge!!! :--) i think with some finess and fitting 46's wouldnt be to bad, i still want to be able to drive my truck past a cop :-laf. so i wouldnt have to use the ford shaft at all, i could cut down a dodge 2wd, or maybe my rear might work?? as soon as i get my transmission i will call and get the hd yoke for it. just for some info for myself, why dont the ctx or ox u joints work in that setup? what do they work for?

 

[pwerwagn]

Yeah, It is amazing at the difference between a 44 and a 49 in height! The OX and CTM u-joints do not use needle bearings. They use bushings. they are not meant for sustained high speed use. they are fully rebuildable. The OX and CTM joints are meant to be used in a front axle app. , in the shafts. The reason that they are used is because there is a space limit in that area, so to get a stronger joint different material must be used. You do not have a space limit on your short shaft. A 1410 is mucho mucho cheaper than a OX or CTM. also, the shafts in the axle see the gear reduction of the trans, x-case and the diff. Your short shaft will only see the trans (5. 67 as opposed to a possible 63. 2 in low first). the 1410s will serve you fine. Heck, even a 1350 will probably do the job with minimal breakage.

Last time I checked, the CTM stuff was about 15 times the price of a spicer joint.

 

[dcamilleri]

There is a possibility that you could maintain a married transfercase with a few improvisions. Ford np 205, change input shaft to dodge 29t 1. 5inch(stock 89 to 93 cummins) you would need the dodge coupler to mate the shafts together, then you would need to make a custom spacer plate to marry the two units. While you were doing this you would also want to clock the transfer case down to lessen the angle on your front drive line. Other desireable parts are dodge front output shaft, not sure what years but there is a 1 3/8 32 spline available. With transfer case clocked down you would need to over fill case to have enough oil in it. Most 205's have lots of interchangeable parts but some differences. Oo. Oo.

 

[mjoppie]

on my divorced t-case could i change it to make it a married t-case? i am having troubles finding a 2wd transmission to do this. or is there a way to make a seal to go in the back of my 4wd transmission so i couild use it?

 

[dcamilleri]

I am assuming that you already have an np205 ford divorced case. Contact standard transmission(tdr vendor) you will need a new(fully splined under 5th) mainshaft, 2wd tail housing, output yoke, shim kit. Make sure to use no less than 1350 series ujoints for the intermediate driveline.

 

[JPittinger]

mj- Sorry if someone has already mentioned this, but... The show 'Trucks' had a show about lifting a Dodge 4x4. The dude installed a ring adapter that clocks the t-case to ease the angle on the front driveshaft. He was installing a pretty tall name brand lift kit (Skyjacker, etc. ) and this was the solution to the problem. Pretty simple part that wouldn't be too hard (or expensive) to try. If you know someone good with a mill and a rotary table, this part wouldn't be hard to make either.

-JJ

 

[JPS]

divorced transfer case

I'm not sure if this would do you any good but I have a low mileage 1964 1/2 ton 4x4 sitting out back. It was rolled so the cab is shot!! jps

 

[mjoppie]

im getting a 1975 ford hi boy for parts. i decided to hunt down a 2wd 4500 for the swap. this might be a little tougher than i expected (parts hunting). right now that project is on hold, my 98 trans siezed up and is converting to a stick this week. anyone need a core 47re????? :-laf



i thought about the index ring but i just dont like the idea of a al t-case behind my twin turbos and 38" tires. i know a lot do it but ive had to many explode.

 

[Alphacowboy]

why not get a doubler, then bolt your 205 tc to that. It will move your TC back about 8-10" so it will greatly reduce your front drive line angle. On-top of that it will give you some insane crawl ratios, and probably be easier and less expensive than a new 4500 2wd transmission.



here is a pic of one installed

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here is the post on it being installed

http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=63668&highlight=klune-v

 

[mschoenheider]

I agree with cowboy that a doubler would be a good solution, however if you want cheaper, get a clocking ring for your 241, and clock it down a few degrees. Another option is the rotate your ront axle pinion up to lessen the angle. In order to do this properly, you would have to get your knuckles cut ff, rotated and welded back on to preserve your factory caster. Probably not something you can do yourself, but it is a good solution for driveline angles, and it moves your front driveshaft up out of the rocks some.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295010

There is a link to a clocking ring for a very reasonable price.

Mark

 

[mjoppie]

well i already have a 205 case and found a local who will trade me a 2wd for my 4wd so im gonna stay that route. the reason i am doing this is because i dont have a 241, just a bunch of pieces. i like the ring idea and the underdrive unit would be cool too. it will probably be 2wd for a while until i get time to fab it up.





matt

 

[biggy238]

Try this.

Move the pivot point on your links back on the frame (longer arms) to the point that they are on either side of the T-case' front yoke. I'd bet money thats what was actually binding and its going to continue to do so until your angles are cleaned up some. The slip joint can only make up for so much misalignment. I think you mentioned a while back about fixing them with longer arms. I don't mean to sound like i'm busting your balls because I like what you've done. Its just something you need to address before you dump the money on the new drivetrain. I think i'm going to buy a long arm kit and substitute air bags and DT parts as I go along. Custom 5 link rear. (maybe a triangulated 4 link rear. ) Hope you get it worked out.

 

[biggy238]

Something else. Put one link from your lower link bracket to the top of the axle bracket. Build a frame mount for the lower link next to the t-case yoke and run a link from the lower axle bracket to there. It will create weird geometry when it cycles but it should keep the axle from moving front to rear as much as the current setup.