DPS versus BD Manifold Replacement

[Silver Tex]

Scott, your 06 should not need any clutch interface to run an EB. The ECM is already setup to control the EB.

Hey John,
I see my 06 ECM is set up to control the PAC brake. I am also reading when clutching to up shift, the brake may come on. I have also read there is some delay built into the ECM to activate the brake. Does this delay overcome the brake coming on during up shift?

Also, since I will leave the brake on for the most part, I’m trying to decide if I’ll install the shifter button right away. Any thoughts on just using the dash toggle that is included. I assume there are a number of you guys who have crossed this bridge and I’d like to hear your feedback.

Thanks All,
Scott.

 

[AH64ID]

Hey John,
I see my 06 ECM is set up to control the PAC brake. I am also reading when clutching to up shift, the brake may come on. I have also read there is some delay built into the ECM to activate the brake. Does this delay overcome the brake coming on during up shift?

Also, since I will leave the brake on for the most part, I’m trying to decide if I’ll install the shifter button right away. Any thoughts on just using the dash toggle that is included. I assume there are a number of you guys who have crossed this bridge and I’d like to hear your feedback.

Thanks All,
Scott.

It depends on how fast you shift. If I shifted slow I would hear the EB air solenoid purge as I finished the shift, but other times I'd never hear it. There is a dealy built into the ECM but the Pac engages the fast once it receives the signal.

I wouldn't have liked a dash switch, like my '18 has, with a manual transmission. The brake is so strong that you will be toggling it quite a bit, at least I did. You also don't want it on until the engine is warm, as a general practice. Using the EB on a cold motor will speed up the warm-up process but it can also push soot into the oil and I only recommend it as a irregular thing.

 

[DavidC]

Don't know if it's the same or not but the toggle switch arm's the system for use but the ECM is what activates it if the switch is on. There is a 2 second delay when the throttle is released. All of this is on a 99.

 

[Chase Chapin]

Scott,

After driving with my Pac brake for almost a year now I have been having no trouble with the supplied generic toggle switch. To ease engagement I mounted it on the right-hand side of the driver's column just below the gauges, so I just switch it off/on with my shifting hand. I shift slowly, so it's not a big deal. I thought about the rocker switch for the shifter but read a lot of reviews about them not lasting long and/or shorting out unexpectedly. Therefore, I stuck with the toggle switch since if it ever failed I can easily go pick one up at any nearby auto parts or hardware store, rather than waiting on the specific lighted rocker switch to arrive from the distributor. Plus it's less wire to run and hide under the dash! Just my experience thus far hope you find it helpful!

Also, the delay in activation is negligible with the new kits that come with the small air tank, in comparison to the older units/kits. Whatever setup you go with though you will be extremely happy with the performance of the brake.

PS I can send pics of my install if you have questions about my switch location.

 

[Silver Tex]

Scott,

After driving with my Pac brake for almost a year now I have been having no trouble with the supplied generic toggle switch. To ease engagement I mounted it on the right-hand side of the driver's column just below the gauges, so I just switch it off/on with my shifting hand. I shift slowly, so it's not a big deal. I thought about the rocker switch for the shifter but read a lot of reviews about them not lasting long and/or shorting out unexpectedly. Therefore, I stuck with the toggle switch since if it ever failed I can easily go pick one up at any nearby auto parts or hardware store, rather than waiting on the specific lighted rocker switch to arrive from the distributor. Plus it's less wire to run and hide under the dash! Just my experience thus far hope you find it helpful!

Also, the delay in activation is negligible with the new kits that come with the small air tank, in comparison to the older units/kits. Whatever setup you go with though you will be extremely happy with the performance of the brake.

PS I can send pics of my install if you have questions about my switch location.

Hi Chase,
If you want to send a picture, that would be great. I’m interested.
Thanks,
Scott.

 

[Silver Tex]

It depends on how fast you shift. If I shifted slow I would hear the EB air solenoid purge as I finished the shift, but other times I'd never hear it. There is a dealy built into the ECM but the Pac engages the fast once it receives the signal.

I wouldn't have liked a dash switch, like my '18 has, with a manual transmission. The brake is so strong that you will be toggling it quite a bit, at least I did. You also don't want it on until the engine is warm, as a general practice. Using the EB on a cold motor will speed up the warm-up process but it can also push soot into the oil and I only recommend it as a irregular thing.

Thanks John,
That is the one thing I have heard about the EB that it can push the soot into the oil. I probably won’t use it to warm the engine for this reason. I haven’t really considered my shifting speed, but I guess I’ll find out a bit more about it as I run this brake.
Scott.

 

[White2005]

Shifter mounted switch on my 2005. Really pleased with the PacBrake system- the change that I would make, for my purposes, is to mount a larger air compressor.

I keep my switch off, unless slowing down - just how I was taught in school. I have seen lots of truckers try to upshift with the brake on... I obviously never did it myself.

 

[Ozymandias]

Shifter mounted switch on my 2005. Really pleased with the PacBrake system- the change that I would make, for my purposes, is to mount a larger air compressor.

I keep my switch off, unless slowing down - just how I was taught in school. I have seen lots of truckers try to upshift with the brake on... I obviously never did it myself.

Thats old school, todays EBs are smart enough to know if the clutch is depressed or not, or the TC is locked or not.
Gone are the days of blowin smoke with EB on and floored throttle..

 

[tjm]

Hi everyone

I've read through all the exhaust manifold threads. I purchased the BD from Genos for my 2005 and the bolt kit from PDP to replace my stock oem unit. If someone could answer a few clarifying question I would appreciate it.

Is there a trick for removing the #5 bottom manifold bolt? I've seen a youtube video where someone machined down a socket. Is that the only way?

Is this a 2 person job for removal/install of the manifold/turbo assembly?

Is it recommended to warm the engine up a bit before removing the manifold bolts?

Thanks

Tim

 

[AH64ID]

I don’t recall anything special being required when I swapped out my OE manifold on my 05. I did it by myself.

 

[Ozymandias]

Hi Tim
Disassemble I did myself, start with the bolts on 1&6 and work to the center.
The turbo bolts i had to heat with a torch for loosing. I also used a Tap on all threads in the cast, they were rusty, it's standard metric thread.
For installation i had a helper that handed me over the assembly while I was sitting on top of the fender. After that was done the helper reached through the wheel well with a crowbar and supported the weight. So I could line up the first 3 top bolts.
The seals go in easy if you do the top bolt first and and then let the seal swing down for the lower one.
Torque them to 35lbs and after the first heat cycle re-torque them, that is very important.

Edit: no problem with #5, used standard 3/8 socket.

Edit#2: For the install of #5 I have a long socket Allan.

 

[tjm]

Thanks guys - always very helpful!

 

[tjm]

Hello everyone. Any tips on removing the lower #5 manifold bolt? I can't get the 13mm socket around the bolt head.

Disregard. The #5 is exactly like the #1 bolt. 15mm 1st, remove bracket, then 13mm for manifold bolt.

 

[Ozymandias]

Hardest part was to get the safety's off of the bolts...

 

[tjm]

Well now I have 2 sheared studs in the Turbo housing. Guess I didn't heat up the housing for long enough. Although it was cherry red.

I also tried extracting the studs which didn't turn out to well.

I can buy a reman HE351CW Turbine Housing for $80. Is it relatively simple to replace? Answer Yes - found a you tube video of a turbo re-build.This housing slides off of the wheel assembly

 

[Ozymandias]

Drill them out, at least try to.
Like said you need to run a Tap down does threads anyways.

 

[tjm]

Drill them out, at least try to.
Like said you need to run a Tap down does threads anyways.

I'm going to remove the turbine housing and try to remember rig something up for my drill press. Might help. In the meantime I spent the $80.

I'm glad I decided to tackle this. #6 gasket was leaking.

And I now know how to replace a turbo. Fairly straightforward!


On the oil inlet to the turbo there is a rubber o ring - does anyone know will any oring do?

 

[tjm]

Well i was able to drill through the studs. Need some advice as i don't want to screw up the next step. I have never done this before so any advice would be appreciated.

Bottom.jpg is the bottom hole and top.jpg is the top hole. the top is almost dead center and is straight through. The bottom runs at an angle is off center. Should i try an extractor on both? A tap might work on the top but i cant center the tap on the bottom. should I heat up the housing first?

 

[AH64ID]

Put some penetrating oil on them, like PB blaster and let it sit for a day before you try to extract them with an EZ-out.

You may have to drill them out a little more too, just try not to drill into the housing.

 

[Ozymandias]

Heat them till red hot, then cool them off with pressured air then soak with ATF fluid (the heat will soak it into the threads), then try with the extractor while the case is still hot and expanded. Be super careful with the extractor to not break it!!!
As soon as it starts to move soak it more with penetrating oil, and turn out and in in a rocking motion, as soon as it starts to bind back up and soak again, take your time.

Heat is your best friend, oil the second one!