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Drivers Door Removal

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rear main seal leaking

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Does anybody have the trick to removing the drivers side door on my 1993 or should I say getting the wiring unhooked for door removal (drivers side). I did several searches and nothing came up to help. The metal on the lower hinge has went for the 3rd time as I have welded it on the truck but that trick is gone as the metal is shot and now I've got to replace the metal this time. I never did it right before because of the wiring (tried this before). It has power window, locks, and a speaker in the door. I count around 14 wires!!! Well I have the shop manual for the 93 which shows it has connector's but I can't find them as they must be buried way up under the dash!!!! I'm ready to cut the darn things and splice back but when I saw 14 wires I changed my mind. Any tricks on this?



Thanks

Dan
 
disconnect the connectors in the door and pull the wiring out from the door. MUCH easier than trying to do the other way.



Carl
 
On the drivers side door there are no disconnects for the door harness, it goes up and ties into the main harness above & behind the instrument cluster. What you can do is disconnect everything in the door and then compress the grommet & pull it out of the door. This will allow you to remove the door and repair or replace it.
 
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Originally posted by Joseph Donnelly

You imply that the hinge itself is at fault. If so, support the open door, and remove the hinge.



I would be willing to wager that what he is having happen is the sheetmetal tearing AROUND the hinge. Mine has it and I have seen several others that so as well. He said nothing about the hinge failing.



I am making an assumption here. Then again, you know what they say about when you assume ... :rolleyes:



Carl
 
Thanks Guys as I was hoping not to take the door apart to do this repair. It's the cracking of the metal on the door around the hinge that needs replaced as it has cracked beond repair and need new metal put in. Thanks again

Dan
 
Door hinge pad repair

Can't do it today as I am not at my buddy's location. He has done a repair that may be of interest to several. I will get a picture on here in a day or two. The hinge pad area is not substantial enough to start with and a good many others have this problem. He supported the door and took the bolts out. He then bumped the metal back as best as possible to the original position. He cut a larger sheet metal reinforcement plate and turned an angle lip on the edge toward the inside of the cab. The lip is about the highth of the hinge plate. This is all clear with a picture. The door works/closes fine and there were no wireing issues to deal with. That is the best I can do today.



1stgen4evr

James
 
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