2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission DSS "TB" installation questions??

[Ramtuf1]

Greetings,



I installed the DSS steering stabilizer with no problems at all. Prepared by soaking the nuts and bolts with penetrating oil for a few days before starting. I have also installed the bushing and relocated the steering damper per the instructions for the TB install. I'm now ready to do the TB install and I have two questions that someone who has completed the job may be able to answer.



1). Do you need to lift the truck and support it with the front wheels off the ground or can I just raise the truck on ramps. Will reinstalling the TB and aligning the front axle be possible with truck weight on it? My truck is high enough and it is difficult for me to support the truck with the front wheels off the ground as I have lower profile heavy duty jack stands.



2). Without going out and buying the Ball joint press, has anyone use a pickle bar or just removed the pin and nut and used a brass drift to break the ball joint stud taper?



I just want to know ahead of time about these issues before proceeding. I have lots of specialized tools but no press to fit the close quarters of that particular ball joint location.



Appreciate any help or advise. Have a great day.

 

[Davcruz]

You can do it on the ground.

As far as the joint goes, you can loosen the nut and whack it with a hammer very hard, or use a pickle fork or you can loosen the nut and turn the wheel a bit both directions until it pops out.

 

[Ramtuf1]

Thanks for the quick reply. I wasn't sure but I hated to go out and purchase the press for one time use. I'll buy tools if I know I have multiple uses for them. Probably try it later this morning.

 

[Ramtuf1]

Won't budge

Everything is apart (or loose) except the taper on the ball joint stud won't break loose from the frame mount. I have the nut loose and I applied a little heat to the frame mount and attempted to break the taper. I used a large air chipping hammer with a brass drift to beat it out and the da-- thing won't loosen. Any one have any other ideas?



The pickle bar that I have won't slip between the mount and the TB head so I would probably have to find one with a larger opening. Not sure where I could get a press temporarily but in any case at present in a bind.

 

[DBraunig]

Don't hit the bar... HIT THE FRAME right where the ball stud goes through. Hit it like you mean it and the bar will fall out.



Dave

 

[Ramtuf1]

I know about hitting the side of the frame mount at the point where the tapered bolt is mounted in the frame. I even backed it up with a sledge to give it a dead hit but still not moving. Forced to drive truck very short distance to work tomorrow with no nut holding tapered bolt secure. Going to have to get some torches to heat up the mount and hopefully free up bolt.

Have to admit that I have never seen anything this tight. All other hardware came loose to ready toe truck for the DSS TB. Frustrated..... Comes from salt and corrosion from winter driving and 100,000 miles.

 

[DBraunig]

Can you wedge an iron digger or long pry bar between the frame and TB and then hit the frame. Maybe add some assist? I'm surprised it didn't drop a little 3lb sledge is all i ever used.



Dave

 

[Davcruz]

I would never drive that truck without a nut on that TB stud. It could come out...

 

[Ramtuf1]

Finished at last. Got truck to shop and up on lift. Still wouldn't come apart. Took torch and heated red hot and finally broke loose. New DSS TB and bracket installed in no time at all. No wonder I couldn't get the darn thing apart even with the proper tools. Now just to center the steering wheel and give it a good test ride.

As I mentioned in one of the above posts, consequences of winter salt and 98,000 miles. Less than a month and wife and I will be on the road with 5th wheel in tow heading to NASCAR races in Charlotte. Thanks for the help and suggestions on my project.