I'm only posting this because I've seen this swap mentioned on this message board and I've been looking into doing it myself.
In the threads I've seen there is very little information about it, so I'm going to provide the information that's lacking.
I'll be making a video about the process to post on my channel, but it won't be for a couple of months at best because I have some financial things to take care of first before I proceed further with the actual swap.
For those wondering why I'm "wasting" my time with this, it's simple. I like doing things, interesting things, and this is a thing that's interesting to me and it may benefit some others out there.
No pictures or anything yet because as of now I've just been doing a lot of digging through the factory service manual, speaking to chrysler techs, and sourcing parts from a local wrecker. The parts just became available to me yesterday.
If you want to do a dual zone climate swap, be aware it is a great deal of work. I'll be swapping the dual zone from a 2004 1500, into my 2005 2500, unless I can find a 2500 Laramie to pull the dash from because there is one minor difference that's preventing me from fully optioning my truck.
You really only need two(three?) parts.
The HVAC housing behind the dash from a dual zone truck, the wiring harness attached to it and the climate control head.
If you have at least an SLT then the ONE wire to enable dual zone is already there in the dash harness/connector C200, which runs up to the "Control-A/C-Heater C1" Pin 13, it's a Light Blue/Brown wire.
If you have single zone then this wire simply isn't in the HVAC side connector.
To remove the dash isn't hard, but is a pain in the ass. There are 10 bolts holding the dash to the truck, plus 4 holding the plastic along the top by the windshield. I went into this having never done it before and had the dash and HVAC box out in 1.5 hours.
3 bolts on the drivers side, 3 bolts on the passenger side, 2 bolts at the base in the middle by the airbag modules, 2 bolts along the top under the speaker bezel/windshield, as well as 4 more smaller screws, and 2 final bolts above the steering column bolting the metal tube in the dash to the metal plate holding the steering column.
You need to remove the steering or at least should because it's easier. And make sure all plugs are disconnected. Once those bolts are all removed and connectors all unplugged the dash will lift up and pull out.
You don't need to remove stuff like the radio, cluster, etc, just the glove box and steering column and some bezels to reveal bolts.
The HVAC housing is held in place with 3 main bolts inside the cab, 2 on top and 1 on the bottom. There are two bolts going through the fire that also hold it in place, one just below AC lines and one behind the PCM, the PCM will need to be moved to access this bolt.
Then the HVAC housing will pull right out.
Again, this took me a grand total of 1.5 hours to pull the entire dash AND HVAC housing, and that was running into some problems and taking time to figure out some stuff. I had a hard time removing the AC lines and heater hoses.
Before I swap in the housing to my own truck I'm going to get a new evaporator and heater core, and replace the blend doors and pieces with a metal alternative.
There is no computer programming that needs to be done, the HVAC actuators will simply need to be re-calibrated at the dealership and they've told me that they can do this.
So this should at least give anyone who wants to try this, or who is searching for it some more information than what I've found on the interwebs.
The cost of the HVAC housing was $175 CAD, pulled myself, or $250 if they pulled it. That included the climate control head.
Now the REALLY interesting part is that if I swap in the dash from the 1500 I will also be able to add in adjustable pedals and infinity sound as well as electronic shift 4WD(I don't want that though) and heated seats.
The problem with this as I mentioned way above is that in my 2500 the passenger side A pillar has a 6 pin connector (C206) for the electrochromatic mirror and clearance lights, whereas the 1500 has only a 2 pin C206 connector for clearance lights, and the mirror stuff is in the drivers side.
So barring that little issue, I could otherwise drop in the entire dash, save time and add options to my truck that it didn't come with. In the time it takes me to get my other issues sorted out I'm going to be looking to source a 2500 Laramie dash with the same options and same C206 connector.
So there it is. If this thread doesn't get canned, I'll update it periodically when there is something to actually update.
In the threads I've seen there is very little information about it, so I'm going to provide the information that's lacking.
I'll be making a video about the process to post on my channel, but it won't be for a couple of months at best because I have some financial things to take care of first before I proceed further with the actual swap.
For those wondering why I'm "wasting" my time with this, it's simple. I like doing things, interesting things, and this is a thing that's interesting to me and it may benefit some others out there.
No pictures or anything yet because as of now I've just been doing a lot of digging through the factory service manual, speaking to chrysler techs, and sourcing parts from a local wrecker. The parts just became available to me yesterday.
If you want to do a dual zone climate swap, be aware it is a great deal of work. I'll be swapping the dual zone from a 2004 1500, into my 2005 2500, unless I can find a 2500 Laramie to pull the dash from because there is one minor difference that's preventing me from fully optioning my truck.
You really only need two(three?) parts.
The HVAC housing behind the dash from a dual zone truck, the wiring harness attached to it and the climate control head.
If you have at least an SLT then the ONE wire to enable dual zone is already there in the dash harness/connector C200, which runs up to the "Control-A/C-Heater C1" Pin 13, it's a Light Blue/Brown wire.
If you have single zone then this wire simply isn't in the HVAC side connector.
To remove the dash isn't hard, but is a pain in the ass. There are 10 bolts holding the dash to the truck, plus 4 holding the plastic along the top by the windshield. I went into this having never done it before and had the dash and HVAC box out in 1.5 hours.
3 bolts on the drivers side, 3 bolts on the passenger side, 2 bolts at the base in the middle by the airbag modules, 2 bolts along the top under the speaker bezel/windshield, as well as 4 more smaller screws, and 2 final bolts above the steering column bolting the metal tube in the dash to the metal plate holding the steering column.
You need to remove the steering or at least should because it's easier. And make sure all plugs are disconnected. Once those bolts are all removed and connectors all unplugged the dash will lift up and pull out.
You don't need to remove stuff like the radio, cluster, etc, just the glove box and steering column and some bezels to reveal bolts.
The HVAC housing is held in place with 3 main bolts inside the cab, 2 on top and 1 on the bottom. There are two bolts going through the fire that also hold it in place, one just below AC lines and one behind the PCM, the PCM will need to be moved to access this bolt.
Then the HVAC housing will pull right out.
Again, this took me a grand total of 1.5 hours to pull the entire dash AND HVAC housing, and that was running into some problems and taking time to figure out some stuff. I had a hard time removing the AC lines and heater hoses.
Before I swap in the housing to my own truck I'm going to get a new evaporator and heater core, and replace the blend doors and pieces with a metal alternative.
There is no computer programming that needs to be done, the HVAC actuators will simply need to be re-calibrated at the dealership and they've told me that they can do this.
So this should at least give anyone who wants to try this, or who is searching for it some more information than what I've found on the interwebs.
The cost of the HVAC housing was $175 CAD, pulled myself, or $250 if they pulled it. That included the climate control head.
Now the REALLY interesting part is that if I swap in the dash from the 1500 I will also be able to add in adjustable pedals and infinity sound as well as electronic shift 4WD(I don't want that though) and heated seats.
The problem with this as I mentioned way above is that in my 2500 the passenger side A pillar has a 6 pin connector (C206) for the electrochromatic mirror and clearance lights, whereas the 1500 has only a 2 pin C206 connector for clearance lights, and the mirror stuff is in the drivers side.
So barring that little issue, I could otherwise drop in the entire dash, save time and add options to my truck that it didn't come with. In the time it takes me to get my other issues sorted out I'm going to be looking to source a 2500 Laramie dash with the same options and same C206 connector.
So there it is. If this thread doesn't get canned, I'll update it periodically when there is something to actually update.