electric or mechanical?

[timelessconstructionllc]

Looking to get a rail pressure gauge but don't know whether to get an electric or mechanical gauge. The gauge will be an autometer cobalt.

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

Same question for regular fuel pressure gauge too.

 

[Cosmo]

Can you even get a mechanical high pressure gauge? I'm not sure I'd want a 30k psi capillary hose under my dash.

Heck, I'm not really sure I'd want any fuel inside my dash.

I'd go electronic.

 

[CKelley1]

the auto meter rail gauge uses the stock transducer for it's signal. the very best gauge for lift pump is a $15 glycerine filled gauge from ww granger but i can tell you want pretty. go to genosgarage.com and get BF-long-taped for $7 i think they also carry your rail gauge. next go to autozone and get a copper line oil pressure gauge installation kit for $10 it has 6' of line and all fittings needed your truck has 8 psi at the cp3 i like to get a gauge that reads in the center therefore you should find a 15 psi full scale gauge. if you get a gauge that comes with a isolator see how far you can throw the isolator. use the bolt on the bottom ov the filter or on the cp3. your truck needs better filtering than the stock filter can give. people on hereare probabally tired of reading my filter setup for a 06 but i will add it again, this is what i sent someone.

we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.



the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5. 9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to -- email address removed -- and i will send pix and instructions

these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.

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[Shadrach]

I run an Isspro EV2 electrical fuel pressure gauge and it is plumbed into the banjo bolt where the fuel goes into the CP3 pump. This gives the pressure of the fuel going INTO the pump. NEVER run a fuel pressure tube directly into the cab. If you want a mechanical gauge use one with an isolator. All six of my gauges are electrical. They are so much easier to hook up and are accurate enough for me. Shadrach

 

[rbattelle]

I run an Isspro EV2 electrical fuel pressure gauge and it is plumbed into the banjo bolt where the fuel goes into the CP3 pump.

That's lift pump pressure, not rail pressure.



Timeless wants rail pressure, for which there is no such thing as a "mechanical" gauge, as Cosmo points out.



-Ryan

 

[timelessconstructionllc]

ckelly1, i have the vdp filter setup mounted under the intake horn with a donaldson 2 micron filter, that's in addition to the factory filter.

 

[CKelley1]

that is good, my way just keeps the under hood clear and by filtering before the stock filter you never have to change the stock one. shadrach most older trucks and equipment have lift pump gauges with fuel to the gauge. it has been this way since about 1900 there is absolutely no problem running fuel to the gauge. the isolator causes more problems than you can imagine especially on the vp44 it ruins the diaphragm and allows water antifreeze to migrate back toward the pump. when the #4 injector line breaks it sprays the hot engine with massive amounts of fuel. i have had three break on me and no fire and of all of the others there have been no report. diesel is light oil, it is not like gas and for the last 45 years i have ran gas to the gauge and some equipment and boats come with gas to the gauge.