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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Exhaust brake

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) new to the 24 valve...

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The previous owner of my truck had installed an exhaust brake and torque converter locker. 47RE auto, standard, as far as I know. The torq-loc malfunctioned a few months ago and would not release 1st gear until 25 mph at about 2500 rpm. On the advice of Bill from DTT, I initially disabled the Torq-loc and I finally removed it alltogether, plugging the vacuum lines. Bill's opinion was that an exhaust brake should not be installed on an auto as it puts too much strain on the TC. Besides, since I don't tow and have no plans to do so, I didn't really need it.



I still have the brake valve and actuator in the exhaust system. Should I completely remove it, or just leave it alone? Is there some restriction that could cause back-pressure by just being there? I expect I would have to get some adapter to go from the manifold to the 4" exhaust system that PO installed.



It is possible that the TC is failing as I get a bit of shuddering when the transmission goes into OD lock. I replaced all the fluid and filter and flushed through the whole transmission, used 19 quarts of ATF +3, FYI, but I know it is clean now and all new. I used a variation of the method described in TDR #42. I also installed a drain plug in the pan. I think the shuddering is better but it is hard to say, as the weather has been a bit icy and snowy, so my opportunities to test it have been limited.



If the TC is slipping what are my options? Do I just replace it with an OEM TC? Or is an uprated one so much better. (Big bucks, I gather) Do I replace the VB at the same time? What would that buy me? The only thing I haul is a fairly light slide-in camper, probably 2000# max, which is well within the rated capacity for MVGW. I think the damage was caused by the PO who may have had some BOMBS that he removed. I have found some holes around the steering column and there were a couple of Velcro strips on top of the fuse/relay box in engine compartment.



Thanks for any replies, guys, I understand that there are a lot of questions here!! but any assistance will be much appreciated.



Ian



I see that my profile has dropped off for some reason. My particulars are as follows:



Y2K 2500 QC Long box 2 WD, with auto and limited slip 3. 55 rear end. Stock other than 4" SS exhaust system and pyro, trans temp and FP guage with Carter pusher pump and new LP.

2003 Triumph Bonneville T100

9. 5 Bigfoot camper.
 
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If you have already been in contact will Bill K. you should ask him what he recommends. INHO, if you have to change the TC, go with and aftermarket..... YES, they are that much better. You should also instll a VB and an update kit. If you are having issues, you are best to go to see Bill directly. He's a straight shooter.

HTH

George
 
We've installed a lot of exhaust brakes on automatics with good success but we suggest a TC lock to give the best performance... . If the customer doesn't want to go with a TC lock I suggest that he not purchase the exhaust brake as he won't be happy.....



The brake can sit on the truck and not hurt a thing... . if someday you or the next owner wants to use it... it might have to be pulled and cleaned for carbon build up... .



There are several guys here who can give you better insight to the TC issue and transmission issue better than I can so I'll let them do it... .



If your exhaust brake is a direct mount... mounts to the trubo a cast elbow was removed to mount the brake... . you'd need that part or a replacement to take the brake off the truck. . I don't keep them, I give them back to the customer and I assume he throws it in the garage someplace... .



The pacbrake and jacobs exhaust brakes were designed to improve flow. . so you don't need to worry about back pressure...



I've had some shudder problems with automatics and have used a chemical called Shudder Fixx from Dr Transmission... . a good friend of mine who does automatics shared with me that most oils loose some of there Esters... . someone help me here... anyway my problem was with 2 cars... that would shudder about 5K after a transmission oil change... . I thought this stuff was snake oil but a 2 oz container stopped the shudder in less than a mile..... and now both cars go 40K between transmission service and than get another shot of shudder fixx after the service... .



Hope I've been of some help...
 
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