Extending the Transfer Case Shift Lever

[rbattelle]

For those like me who think the transfer case shift lever would be more convenient if it were taller, here's one way to extend it. You need the following materials:



1. 1/2" aluminum rod. Specific alloy is not important: just get general purpose (6061). These may be obtained from www.smallparts.com I bought a 1 ft. piece.



2. A 8. 5mm twist drill and M10x1. 5 tap (8. 5mm is the tap drill size for M10x1. 5).



3. A 25 to 40 millimeter M10x1. 5 hex-head bolt.



To do the job:



1. Cut the aluminum rod down to 7 inches in length. You can make it shorter, but anything longer may not allow you to shift into 4L, as the top of the shifter will strike the dash. Also, anything taller and you're risking interference with the transmission stick (for us manual guys).



2. Drill about 2 inches into each end of the rod using the 8. 5mm bit. Tap those holes for M10x1. 5.



3. Remove the transfer case shift knob by gently prying out the "4L-N-2H-4H" plastic piece, then removing the hex nut (use a 15mm socket). Unscrew the shift knob from the shift arm.



4. Take that hex nut you just removed, and screw it all the way to the bottom of the threads on the shift lever. It will be used as a jam nut.



5. Thread your aluminum rod onto the shift lever until it contacts the nut. Then unscrew the hex nut from step 4 to jam it up against the aluminum rod.



6. Screw the M10x1. 5 bolt you bought into the shift knob, then screw that assembly into the end of your aluminum rod. Finally, replace the "4L-N-2H-4H" piece.



In the pic, I've pulled the boot down below the jam nut. Normally I keep it pulled up over the nut. I think it looks better that way, and it keeps "crud" from accumulating down in the boot like it does in the factory position.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Paint it black, and it'll look factory. Nice work.

 

[StephenThomas]

Nice job... . I agree -- paint it black.

 

[rbattelle]

I kinda like the brushed aluminum look. Maybe I'll paint it.

 

[Torque King Jay]

Looks cool Great job. What's next...

 

[nickleinonen]

Originally posted by rbattelle

I kinda like the brushed aluminum look. Maybe I'll paint it.

how about slipping a piece of this techflex tubing over it? http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=161

#ad


use black and it will be all black with some aluminum showing through the mesh [i posted pic of red so you can see the texture]

 

[Tony T.]

Shifter

Nice job rbattelle: Can you still shift in to 4L without busting your knuckles against the dash. You know one continuous thrush forward.

 

[rbattelle]

Tony,



Yeah, you can, although the shift knob tends to strike the dash when it slips into 4L, then sits about 1/4 inch away when it's actually engaged. Doesn't bother me, but that could be avoided by making the extension a little shorter.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Originally posted by rbattelle

... making the extension a little shorter.

Or you could give it a slight bend backwards, nearly matching the angle of the trans shifter. I think you should send pics of this to the engineers at DC.

 

[rbattelle]

Evan,



It's funny you should mention that, because I'm considering doing exactly that. At the moment, the only thing preventing me from doing it is an unwillingness to dent the crap out of the bar (I'd have to use my anvil and a hammer, since I don't own any equipment that would be appropriate for bending a 1/2 inch round rod).

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Hmmm... Aluminum rod shouldn't be too tough to bend. Be careful if you decide to heat & bend it. Another option is to throw the thing in a vise, stick a pipe on the end of it, and give it a little tweak. That would work, provided the pipe is long enough. You may want to check out a metalworks shop, or some kind of place that may have the equipment needed to bed that sort of material the way you want.

 

[rbattelle]

I'm finished with dealers now

Had my truck in to have a clearance light replaced under warranty. When I got the truck back my shift lever extension had been SHEARED OFF it's base.



I wouldn't have been mad, except that the tech denied that he had done anything at all to it and claimed he "thought it was weird" that it was like that. He did admit "maybe I bumped it with my knee?". Then the GM explained to me that "well, people try to screw us out of all sorts of things". So apparently I'm a liar and I'm trying to scam them out of $20 worth of Aluminum.



And thus ends my taking my vehicle to the dealer for any work whatsoever. #@$%! #@$%!



The dealer was:

Voss Dodge; Centerville, OH.



I was a very satisfied service customer (1 oil change, 3 fuel filter changes, 2 cab lights, and a slow passenger side mirror) until today. Some free advice: when you take your truck to the dealer, take a camera and bring the service writer out to the truck and make him watch you take photos of the entire truck. Then if anything's changed that you didn't authorize you've got indisputable proof.

 

[DPhillips]

I would print your original post that shows your new shifter with the date and time of the post and take it back to the dealer and show the GM how it was before his employee got in your truck and see what he has to say about that.



Sorry about your truck. Now I get to take mine back for the cab lights to be replaced, horn won't stop honking and an oil change. :{

 

[Matt400]

I think "both" levers would look cool in chrome -or- Patriot Blue

 

[jboehm]

Hmm, sheared off you say? Sorry to see it happend though, it looked like a nice job. Just my humble opinion, but the weak link in the setup would seem to be at the bottom end. 1/2 inch rod is 12. 5 mm (approx) minus the 8. 5 mm hole, would only leave about 2mm wall thickness tapped... not really what I'd call substantial, especially with aluminum. It really wouldn't take much of a bump to shear that, remember, there's added leverage on that joint with the extra length..... maybe larger dia rod would work, like maybe 5/8".



As I said, just my opinion, hope you get it worked out with the dealer!

 

[rbattelle]

It really wouldn't take much of a bump to shear that, remember, there's added leverage on that joint with the extra length.....

That's not the point! The point is, instead of owning up to it they decided to lie. Why can't people just be honest? Why is it so hard to own up when you've done something wrong? What ever happened to integrity and honesty?



If they had come out and said "look, we're sorry but we broke your shift lever and we'll pay you for the materials", I probably would've said "well, accidents happen and I was meaning to make that shaft a little shorter anyway so don't worry about it. " It's the principles (or lack thereof) that I'm mad about.



Besides, why is it I was able to get in and out hundreds of times without ever knocking that thing? It's not like it's sticking out anywhere in the driver's wheel well. Do I have some special control over my own body that "normal" people don't? Do "normal" people flail around like caged monkeys when they get in a vehicle?

 

[nickleinonen]

make up one of them "lemon" type signs and park your truck across the d[st]ealers entrance showing the world how they broke your truck and are refusing to admit it. . if you park right along the curb side, they can't do too much to you [if you are rigit outside their property], but they will get some deserving advertising...

 

[rbattelle]

Level with me guys, am I being unreasonable here? Should I not be upset?



Nick - I'd love to do something like that, but to be honest I don't like making trouble for people... even if they've wronged me. Yes, occassionally people walk all over me, but I figure what comes around goes around. I posted a bad review of Voss service over at the dodgeram.org database, plus I hope people in my area see this thread. I don't want that tech to get fired for one mistake, but I would like him to admit it and apologize.

 

[Tony T.]

Level with me guys, am I being unreasonable here? Should I not be upset?



Nick - I'd love to do something like that, but to be honest I don't like making trouble for people... even if they've wronged me. Yes, occassionally people walk all over me, but I figure what comes around goes around. I posted a bad review of Voss service over at the dodgeram.org database, plus I hope people in my area see this thread. I don't want that tech to get fired for one mistake, but I would like him to admit it and apologize.

Ryan, I don't think your being unreasonable about the screw up "they" did. I was alway's taught growing up to take care of my things,an the same goes for other peoples property also. I recently had my truck in the dealership for a very small oil leak "a seep". The tech damaged the valve cover, not bad but still damage. I, knowing they would not touch up the paint ask the service writer "say could your body shop touch up that paint on the cover where the tech scraped it off" doing the gasket install, it was'nt that way when I brought it in. His reply was we'll order you a new one. Like you said accidents do happen, but it also takes a man to admit when he is wrong.



As someone else suggested taking a printed copy of orginal post may help recovering some of the cost. Some dealership's really care about customer service an try to go the extra mile an some are there just to get their eight hours in an could care less if you ever came back or not.





Tony

 

[GerryDrake]

Strength

Hmm, sheared off you say? Sorry to see it happend though, it looked like a nice job. Just my humble opinion, but the weak link in the setup would seem to be at the bottom end. 1/2 inch rod is 12. 5 mm (approx) minus the 8. 5 mm hole, would only leave about 2mm wall thickness tapped... not really what I'd call substantial, especially with aluminum. It really wouldn't take much of a bump to shear that, remember, there's added leverage on that joint with the extra length..... maybe larger dia rod would work, like maybe 5/8".



As I said, just my opinion, hope you get it worked out with the dealer!

I was wondering the same, and am contemplating making one, but since the boot comes up over the end, wondered if a hose clamp or two around the lower threaded part would be hidden by the boot, but add strength. . just a thought