Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) FINALLY!!!! Some one puts an end to Carter!!

[EdK]

I tried

MAV1:

I feel for ya' man; the flames are a'flamin! While others are wondering, I took the time to e-mail Airtex the following:



Many of us who own Dodge trucks with the Cummins engine are interested, but cautious, of your E7153 replacement for the troublesome OEM pumps. Would you please supply the performance specs (GPM, PSI, predicted life cycle testing, etc) for this pump?



There have been other attempts to offer "cures" for our OEM lift pumps, but only the very expensive systems seem to be a better choice.



One thing that seems to help is to relocate the OEM style pump on the frame, closer to the fuel source. Will relocating your E7153 improve it's expected life or performance?



Please understand that we place our $2000 injector pumps at risk with every new "fix" that is announced. Thousands of Cummins/Dodge owners frequent the web site of The Turbo Diesel Register and would welcome the inputs of your design staff regarding my concerns.



Thank you.



That was THREE DAYS AGO and I have NOT HEARD A WORD.



Ed

 

[DNewell]

Way to go Ed!!! Very thoughtfully worded email. We'll see what you get.



As for my situation. I bought the truck in November of 2005. Went to change the fuel filter, did the change, and no starting. Was a pain to get running. Got a gauge, put it on, no pressure. Changed the original Carter in late November of 2005. this pump made it until May of 2006. Didn't save the original receipt on the fuel filter so NAPA wouldn't warranty the pump that I had purchased in November. I put the new pump on and it was fine for a year and a month, just out of warranty period. I was pulling the fiver for a good four hour trip, and 20 minutes in, the FP went to 0. Had to turn around and baby it to a local NAPA and spend another $200 on a new pump and filter. When I got back from teh trip, I went in and complained to my local NAPA, and the refunded the cost of the pump. But come on, three pumps in two years, that's ridiculous. After the next one that craps out, I'm switching to the Glacier Diesel setup.

 

[EdK]

Persistance

I don't give up easily. Today I sent a "Second Request" e-mail, attaching the original and asking for a status. I said the assumption is the original was forwarded to the engineering group and that was the cause of the delay.



I've been known to spend some time finding the e-mail address of a company's CEO and reporting an ignored request there. Usually the "s### rolls down hill" rule kicks in and someone must report the resolution back up the ladder. The last time I did this was with Hoover. I had THREE e-mails from different departments and a phone call from his secretary before the day was over and, yes, my problem was solved because of it.



Ed

 

[DNewell]

I tell you what, accountability is for crap in most modern companies. So many people are so accustomed to pointing the finger at someone else rather than just nutting up and taking care of themselves. Why people have to be like this is beyond me. If more people lived by the motto that "the buck stops here. " I think that things would be better off. Good luck and let me know what you come up with!

 

[Lsfarm]

There never seems to be an end to the lift pump threads. It has been stated over and over that the location of the original lift pump is the major cause of reliability issues. The relocation kits also pretty-much solve the problem.



I've always recommended adding a 7psi carter pusher pump on the frame, this has worked for almost 90K miles on my truck. Rust and corrosion ended my first frame mounted pump's usefulness, and it was replaced with another pusher. The engine mounted pump has more than 80K on it, but it has been fed fuel by the pusher for the entire time



Have frequent pump failures? Just keep fuel in the tank. I think if an honest poll were taken, the trucks with frequent pump failures had fuel levels consistently under 1/2 tank. The lower the level the farther uphill the stock pump location has to pull the fuel. Pumps don't like to suck or pull fuel, they like to push fuel. So don't make the pump work so hard, keep the tank above 1/2 full. I know it seems stupid to haul around a half a tank of 'unusable' fuel. but the pump isn't designed to lift fuel the distance from a low tank.



I'm not sure ANY pump will survive pulling fuel from a tank with only 2-3" of fuel in it, and having to lift it the extra foot or so of altitude to the engine. The lower amount of fuel will also result in warmer fuel, which adds to the problems.



GL



.

 

[PRout]

. . and continuing on with that thought, there's the fuel level float that disintegrates into a million small pieces and ends up plugging the intake screen that feeds the already poorly designed pick-up tube, making any lift pump's job difficult at best. The whole fuel system is just way insufficiently designed for an engine of this caliber. Shame on DC for their way of handling the situation.

We do appreciate any new leads on fixes for our systems though whether they are a significant fix or not, ANY info is welcome. Thanks.

Its just that this subject is going to get worked over and over due to a lot of past experience and skepticism.

 

[PRout]

I run the FASS because it seemed to be the toughest pump available at the time it was purchased. It has not let me down. It IS tough. It IS noisy. It has had a few quirks that needed to be worked out. I am NOT satisfied with the way the company treats its customers including the times I was turned away for wanting to buy "small replacement items" (quite rudely). Without diesel-dan stepping in and going out of his way for a lot of people, that company's reputation would be mud IMO.

Personally, today, if I were to re-work the system I would consider using the draw-straw pickup tube feeding an array of 2 walbro pumps mounted side by side (directly above one another in parallel), with one as the primary and the other as a backup. If it were me, I would consider using a convenient valve setup to switch to the back-up in case of failure, or just use steel braided lines that can be quickly moved down to the backup, along with an "as weather resistant as possible" electrical quick-disconnect plug that can be moved down to the backup pump also.

I mean, if we cant make the pumps bulletproof, then we should have (as Bob points out above) a quick field replaceable-fix to keep us on the road.

That way, when home, the broken pump can be replaced, and can become the new backup.

Just another option to consider.

 

[Allnew2Me]

"Personally, today, if I were to re-work the system I would consider using the draw-straw pickup tube feeding an array of 2 walbro pumps mounted side by side (directly above one another in parallel), with one as the primary and the other as a backup. If it were me, I would consider using a convenient valve setup to switch to the back-up in case of failure, or just use steel braided lines that can be quickly moved down to the backup, along with an "as weather resistant as possible" electrical quick-disconnect plug that can be moved down to the backup pump also.



That way, when home, the broken pump can be replaced, and can become the new backup. "

PRout









You mean kind of like this? https://www.turbodieselregister.com...002/190424-no-more-lift-pump-troubles-me.html

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

You mean kind of like this? https://www.turbodieselregister.com...002/190424-no-more-lift-pump-troubles-me.html

OR, perhaps like THIS:



#ad






The Walbro GSL-392 is the primary fuel pump, automatically bypassed if it fails - the OEM Carter LP can be seen further up the frame, but is not connected to power unless the Walbro fails, and is also automatically bypassed - all that needs changing is a single power lead to switch from one to the other, and even THAT could easily be done with a simple power switch from inside the cab...

 

[John - K5AWO]

Well, I wasn't going to get in on this, but... ... ... .

As far as I am concerned, the OEM pump is still good enough as I am not into the horsepower game. And, like mav1 says, I can get a replacement at any autoparts store (price aside).

My oem pump started leaking fuel at 116,000 miles but was still pushing 16 psi in the stock location (the replacement's still there).

Why complicate life?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. For me that theory works. For others, I don't pay their bills so I don't care and won't respond to flaming. So let's just keep things at an adult level.

This is My Honest Opinion and I'm sticking to it. I saw that in a cartoon somewhere, and it works for me.

MAV1, thanks a lot for the info. I'm with you on this one.

 

[PRout]

Beautius Maximus to the above! Bingo!

(also noticed the noise filter )

You guys should turn your trucks over just to show off your handywork...

Anyways, these forums sometimes require an extra layer of skin, and/or aluminum underwear. . They've been this way for years, just about all of us have been "pounded" a little (or put on the rotisserie). The tough questions do get asked, but we sure know more than we did when we elected to join in. .

 

[EdK]

Still no response

Well,still no response to my SECOND e-mail requesting more specs from Airtex!





Seems like a negative picture of any type of customer support!



Ed

 

[MAV1]

Edk, Airtex responded to my e-mail and inquiry the very day I sent it. In addition, I was provided with a direct contact, phone number and e-mail. Please bear with us while it is turned over to the higher ups for consideration. In the mean time, for whatever it is worth, since the new pump is designed as an "oe pump replacement", with the exception of more flow and increased durability, at the minimum, one could use the same specs as the oem Carter, which has been posted on this forum many times. Example, pressure 14-16psi. As yet, I don't know the "exact specs", and to be honest, I don't care. If the Airtex does a way better job of matching the Carter, and doesn't have to be replaced every time I turn around, that's all I care about. If I wanted a super duper x# of gallons per hour pump at whatever pressure, I'd buy one. It has been pointed out there are many choices. I started this post to simply point out a manufacturer has tried to address the short comings of the Carter and produce an "OE REPLACMENT" that matches or exceeds a Carter and offers longer life. Period! Please fellas, let's not over dissect this and give Airtex a chance to do their thing. I for one, will be happy with a twin version of this pump, except 3/8 NPT ported, inlet and outlet as I am a convert to the relocated pump.

Ram on

Out of respect and courtesy to my contact at Airtex, I prefer not to divulge that info.

 

[2broke2smoke]

As yet, I don't know the "exact specs", and to be honest, I don't care.

now that's reassuring ...



that's exactly the point the high post count dudes you trashed earlier were trying to make ...

 

[Highfinance97]

a cam and 12 valve lift pump is a real nice cure ... less than a lot of folks have spent on these damn things. .

been running one for almost 2 years and not a lick of problems since the change

sorry just had to say it LOL

what kind of pressure are you seeing with that set up?

I think the lift pump off of a 12valve pushes no more than 35 PSI which is perfect for our P7100 but its a bit much for a VP44





Michael

 

[rweis]

I think you could take a cam and a mechanical lp AND THEN setup a bypass back to the tank and dial in whatever psi you want.



Sort of what the RASP system does, puts out way more than needed, then you adjust the bypass to get the psi you want.



Same way the Walbro 392 works, puts out way more than needed, then you adjust the bypass to get the psi you want.



A secondary benefit to the bypass is more fuel goes through the fuel filter than is used (ie bypassed) and the entire tank volume gets recirculated through the fuel filter.



Bob Weis



Opps, I guess this adds ANOTHER count to the Post count, mercy me, the sky is falling, the sky is falling oh what shall I do?, oh what shall I do, maybe reset the post count? NOT!!!!!!!!!

 

[RHARVEY]

I think the lift pump off of a 12valve pushes no more than 35 PSI which is perfect for our P7100 but its a bit much for a VP44

From what I understand... Gary did install a fuel pressure regulator to bring the pressures down



Rick

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

From what I understand... Gary did install a fuel pressure regulator to bring the pressures down



Rick

If it's THIS Gary you refer to, I'm using a Walbro GSL-392 in my setup - and yes, WITH a bypass flow regulator...

 

[Highfinance97]

From what I understand... Gary did install a fuel pressure regulator to bring the pressures down



Rick

That will do ya



And then you can dial it in to the exact Digit you are looking for



There is a lot of 800+HP trucks running that mech. pump also





Michael

 

[JOdell]

Anyways, these forums sometimes require an extra layer of skin, and/or aluminum underwear. . They've been this way for years, just about all of us have been "pounded" a little (or put on the rotisserie). The tough questions do get asked, but we sure know more than we did when we elected to join in. .

And to add to this ANY ONE here would help out another TDR member in their time of need. I KNOW I would.



I love reading these lift pump threads. I have had 4 vp44's and LP's replaced in the 6 years I have owned this truck. I am still trying to decide if I want to spend the money on a after market pump or keep running what I have. These treads help. Until now I never thought I was the reason these pumps were going bad. I always run my fuel down till the light comes on. It takes me 2 weeks to run out a tank of fuel. Every other Friday I go get fuel. I relocated the LP and added a FP gauge this summer. So far I have 11psi at idle and when I put my foot in the fan with my trailer I get no lower than 6psi. And that is only for a split second till it shifts. Is this bad? I was told that if it is over 5psi it is good.



Anyway, my hats off to ALL of you guys that try, buy or hear of something that works and post your finds for all of us TDR diesel heads to read. That is why I will give my $35. 00 when my subscription is up. -Jason