Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
larryq
TDR MEMBER
Hello everyone!
I've been away for quite a while now, but I have some info that people may need.
I still have my 98. 5 2500 4X4, and plan on keeping her for a while longer!
I developed a fuel leak at the filter canister, and it appears that this is a relatively common thing.
Some of the solutions I've read here include switching to an aftermarket setup like the FASS, but at this point, I'm trying to save money for a new truck, and 600 bucks seems kinda steep.
The dealer wants 1100 bucks for a retrofit kit, and that is just insane!
I have been working with Fleetguard, and have found two solutions that should save a ton on money.
First, I have the complete part number list for the Cummins and Fleetguard parts to replace the entire system, and make the "Old Syle Canister, the NEW style canister.
Please feel free to ask me for a copy if you would 's like a copy!
However there is a 6 dollar solution that I am going to attempt tonight!
Again, I was placed in touch with a tech at Fleetguard that knew his stuff!
He has performed this fix several times for people and swears it works perfectly!
You are going to need 3 Items (4 if you haven't changed your fuel filter in a while)
12MM Banjo Bolt Washers (Dodge P/N 5016555AB) get at least 4... I bought 12 so I can place some on the self for later use!
Stop by a auto parts store and get a #10 Air Conditioning O-Ring.
These should be GREEN in color, and will withstand diesel fuel.
Do not use regular o-Rings... . get A/C O- rings.
1) Disconnect the 2 electrical harnesses at the Filter assy. (water sensor and heater)
2) Remove the 2 banjo bolts for the fuel in and fuel out lines and discard the old seal washers.
3) Remove the 2 bolts that attach the filter housing to the Manifold.
4) Lift the entire the Filter canister assembly from the truck
5) On a bench,seperate the head from the lower (change the filter at this time If you want) ,remove the 3 torx screws that hold in the fuel heater into the head, and press the wire lead package out towards the inside
6) Now you are going to need to either CUT the two heater wires OR you need to remove the pins from the Connector.
Make sure to remember polarity... I suggest marking the connector and wires so you can put them back in the same spot.
If you choose to cut, you are going to have to solder and use heatshrink tubing to seal the wires.
7) Where the two wires go through the filter head, it is sealed with an o-ring, this is the o-ring to replace with the new A/C o-ring .
8) Put the housing back together, solder or replace the heater leads.
I like to pre-prime my fuel filter with diesel to make starting easier.
9) Reinstall the housing and use new seal washers on the banjo bolts.
I also suggest using the lift pump to help remove as much air as you can in the system prior to starting.
While the lift pump is running, AND THE ENGINE IS OF, loosen the fuel pressure tap plug closest to the front of the engine to bleed any air, then tighten when fuel begins to flow out the port.
The combination of priming the filter housing with diesel, and bleeding with the lift pump should make starting the engine much easier!
TA-DA!!!!
No More Leak ( I HOPE)
As I said, I'm going to do this tonight!
Wish me luck!!!!
LarryQ
I've been away for quite a while now, but I have some info that people may need.
I still have my 98. 5 2500 4X4, and plan on keeping her for a while longer!
I developed a fuel leak at the filter canister, and it appears that this is a relatively common thing.
Some of the solutions I've read here include switching to an aftermarket setup like the FASS, but at this point, I'm trying to save money for a new truck, and 600 bucks seems kinda steep.
The dealer wants 1100 bucks for a retrofit kit, and that is just insane!
I have been working with Fleetguard, and have found two solutions that should save a ton on money.
First, I have the complete part number list for the Cummins and Fleetguard parts to replace the entire system, and make the "Old Syle Canister, the NEW style canister.
Please feel free to ask me for a copy if you would 's like a copy!
However there is a 6 dollar solution that I am going to attempt tonight!
Again, I was placed in touch with a tech at Fleetguard that knew his stuff!
He has performed this fix several times for people and swears it works perfectly!
You are going to need 3 Items (4 if you haven't changed your fuel filter in a while)
12MM Banjo Bolt Washers (Dodge P/N 5016555AB) get at least 4... I bought 12 so I can place some on the self for later use!
Stop by a auto parts store and get a #10 Air Conditioning O-Ring.
These should be GREEN in color, and will withstand diesel fuel.
Do not use regular o-Rings... . get A/C O- rings.
1) Disconnect the 2 electrical harnesses at the Filter assy. (water sensor and heater)
2) Remove the 2 banjo bolts for the fuel in and fuel out lines and discard the old seal washers.
3) Remove the 2 bolts that attach the filter housing to the Manifold.
4) Lift the entire the Filter canister assembly from the truck
5) On a bench,seperate the head from the lower (change the filter at this time If you want) ,remove the 3 torx screws that hold in the fuel heater into the head, and press the wire lead package out towards the inside
6) Now you are going to need to either CUT the two heater wires OR you need to remove the pins from the Connector.
Make sure to remember polarity... I suggest marking the connector and wires so you can put them back in the same spot.
If you choose to cut, you are going to have to solder and use heatshrink tubing to seal the wires.
7) Where the two wires go through the filter head, it is sealed with an o-ring, this is the o-ring to replace with the new A/C o-ring .
8) Put the housing back together, solder or replace the heater leads.
I like to pre-prime my fuel filter with diesel to make starting easier.
9) Reinstall the housing and use new seal washers on the banjo bolts.
I also suggest using the lift pump to help remove as much air as you can in the system prior to starting.
While the lift pump is running, AND THE ENGINE IS OF, loosen the fuel pressure tap plug closest to the front of the engine to bleed any air, then tighten when fuel begins to flow out the port.
The combination of priming the filter housing with diesel, and bleeding with the lift pump should make starting the engine much easier!
TA-DA!!!!
No More Leak ( I HOPE)
As I said, I'm going to do this tonight!
Wish me luck!!!!
LarryQ
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