Front bearing assembly

[savage54]

I need to replace Driver side front wheel hub and bearing assembly on my 1997 dodge cummins 4x4, with a 8800 GVW , and a 4 bolt flange on the bearing assembly. I've all ways used Timken bearings, but if theirs some thing better, will look at. Any one use Detroit axle, MOOG,TRQ,DORMAN,SKF, OR ANY OTHER BRAND? I have looked and see the prices are all over the place, with Timken being at the top in price for one and TRQ being in the lower price but you get 2 units.
Thanks Dave

 

[Joe Mc]

I'm a firm believer in replacing with quality parts If you found Timkens I'd go with them or the MOOG units. I forget which ones I used = many years back... Now a little food for thought, if one side is bad the other most likely isn't far behind. Rule of thumb, like with brake parts, if one side (wheel) is bad the other should be replaced at the same time. Just my $0.02

May I suggest creating a signature with info on your truck so folks can better help without asking "what year, auto or std, 4 X 4 or 2wd, etc."

 

[Shiner]

I know moog has plants all over the world and they could come from anywhere. Timken, I believe has even done this. I was told some time back to go with japanese made bearings, but I do not recall the branding. Maybe Koyo?

 

[savage54]

I was leaning towards timken or Moog, and I was thinking of doing both sides. I did find a guy that make a unit bearing with locking hubs, I think he was called Ram man? Timken is now made out of the country? if so is the quality still their? how about Moog?

 

[GrantP]

I used Timken's on my 2nd Gen, no issues. I do not recall where they were made though.

 

[Ozymandias]

SKF is also a trusted brand, i use them a lot.

 

[savage54]

SKF is also a trusted brand, i use them a lot.

I found 2 SKF ASSEMBLIES ON EBAY, and the guy is asking $230.00 and their a napa brand.Only thing that is bothering me is ,they were bought in 2004 ,so they are 15 years old. Do you think the grease would be bad after sitting for 15 years?https://www.ebay.com/itm/TWO-Wheel-...m=202622203736&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507

 

[GrantP]

You can get new SKF or Timken for less than that Ebay price from Rock Auto.

 

[Mike B.]

Just a few weeks ago I installed a pair of TRQ hubs that I purchased vie Amazon Prime. Generally I too would avoid going with the an off brand like this but honestly I was tight on cash so I'm giving them a shot. With the proper tools its really not a difficult job to do so for me there's not much to loose here. If I were paying a shop to do the work I would've gone with a something a little more high end. I bought my first truck new in 99, the frame rotted out at 500,000mi from plowing snow ect and I've had my current 99 2500 since 2005. Between those two trucks I've gone through at least 3-4 sets of hubs and noticed no difference in longevity between brands, including a set purchased fron Dodge. like they say, your mileage may vary..

I would add that if your rotors are the least bit worn now would be the time to go ahead and replace them while you have the hubs off.

 

[brianMo]

This is how I did mine. Piece of cake.

 

[Ozymandias]

@Mike B.
Add from time to time some Grease through the ABS hole and your bearings will prolong the lifetime incredibly.
It's the grease in the bearings that turn into a black muck that doesn't lube anymore.

Of course IF that is possible on a Gen2 Hub, I just know the Gen3 assembly.

 

[GReed]

Greasing the hubs on a 2nd gen will work. You have to tear the brakes down to get to the ABS hole. A good website for the procedure is www.courtsara.com. I gave mine about 30 pumps.

 

[savage54]

Has anyone used
National Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Front 515012?

 

[JR]

Stick with a known quality bearing, given the labor involved this is one job you don't want to do again anytime soon. Of the manufacturers you listed I'd go with SKF and then Timken. Probably wouldn't even look at anything else given the Chinese crap quality control of "bargain bearings" flooding parts houses these days.

Also if 4wheel drive now is the time to do the front universal joints. I'd go with the OEM Spicer units here. More money, but you won't have to worry about them again. Going by memory, I believe the OEM # on the front axle joints is SPL55.

 

[JMcCoy]

Timken, SKF, or Dana/Spicer only. Stay away from Spicer SVL (Spicer Value Line). It is Chinese crap. SKF also has factories in China. I would stay away from those. Lots of inferior one on Ebay. Look for the country of origin stamp. You wany to see USA, Germany, Italy, Sweden, Japan, Korea, and I believe Mexico is good too.

There have been posts in the past where people added a zirk fitting to the bottom of the bearing and drilled and access hole in the bottom of the knuckle. Seemed pretty slick.

 

[savage54]

I ended up getting MOOG 515012 , I got a discount where the trucking company ,I work for gets their parts, and yes I was going to replace the axle u-joint, and rotor.

 

[d90boy]

I second the spicer U-joints and from my local o'reilley they're not even much higher than the Precision brand. They're such a PITA to change I want to change them as infrequently as possible.

For anyone changing the unit bearings out themselves I highly recommend the Snap-On tool that goes over the hub bolt heads and bottoms against the axle to push the hubs out via the power steering. Yes you can accomplish about the same thing with a socket and extension but it's awful hard on them. I have the air hammer bits that fit the bolt heads too but they only work on a hub that's been out previously and anti seized.

 

[Michaelsloft]

I second the spicer U-joints and from my local o'reilley they're not even much higher than the Precision brand. They're such a PITA to change I want to change them as infrequently as possible.

For anyone changing the unit bearings out themselves I highly recommend the Snap-On tool that goes over the hub bolt heads and bottoms against the axle to push the hubs out via the power steering. Yes you can accomplish about the same thing with a socket and extension but it's awful hard on them. I have the air hammer bits that fit the bolt heads too but they only work on a hub that's been out previously and anti seized.

Do you have the Snap-On part no for the tool?

 

[GReed]

Geno's Garage also has one of those tools. Part #LC38210. I don't know if it is the same as or different than SnapOn.

 

[Michaelsloft]

Geno's Garage also has one of those tools. Part #LC38210. I don't know if it is the same as or different than SnapOn.

Thanks!