2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front brake calipers

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My year is not starting out to well. I started checking the truck out for inspection and found 2 bad ball joints, figured no big deal, I will replace them all. Then I decided to change the brake fluid and could not get the bleeders loose on the front calipers. Ended up snapping them both off! :{ Can these be drilled and retaped or do I need to look at new calipers? If they can be drilled and tapped does anybody know what size and thread pitch they are? If not is remained calipers ok or should I get new ones from DC. Has anyone tried the Raybestos slotted rotors? I was thinking of replacing rotors when I noticed my one has heat cracks in it.
 
Sorry to hear about your brake bleeders, I would recommend replacing with a good quality caliper and flush the system. As far as rotors go slotted are good at removing heat, it depends on what you are doing with your truck, daily driver doesnt require performance, dragging and pulling does. I went with brembo rotors and hawkhead pads they are a great combo. Do not buy from DC as you will pay way above cost.



Dave
 
Raybestos rebuilt calipers

I went with Raybestos semi-loaded calipers as my pads were like new and rotors had been replaced with Napa premiums recently. The calipers @Kragen were $43. 99. Works great.
 
What is a loaded Caliper

Bajabob



I went to kragen,, looks like a good site. .



But::



What is a loaded Caliper?



Next question on my 1990 W250, 4500 lb axle there are at least two from which to choose. How do I know what part number I need?



Thank you for theanswer.
 
Calipers

JohnCarr said:
A loaded caliper is a caliper that comes complete with the caliper and brake pads.

That's correct. I had like new Mopar pads and prefer them after trying numerous aftermarket pads. Loaded ones come with Raybestos pads. The rotors would have had to be turned also with new pads. The raybestos calipers are painted unlike my calipers on my '07 which came pre-rusted. :{ You might want to call Raybestos themselves for an application and then order from Kragen. They're was a stiff core charge too. I think $42. 00.
 
I'd try an easy out, but first remove the brake line and heat up the section of the caliper where the bleeder threads in, doesn't have to be really hot just get it warmed up so as you can't touch it, soak threaded area/whats lft of the bleeder with penatraiting oil and repeat a few times. Tap the easy out in and give it a try, turn it easy and if nothing moves - remove easy out and heat, then oil and repeat. Patience is the key here. As far as replacing the bleeder screws you should be able to find them in one of those "Help" sections at the local Pep Boys, Auto Zone etc.



I don't think you can drill and re-tap the bleeder holes as they have that seal area at the bottom and you'd loose that with the drilling and tapping - I think? Never done it heat and pen oil always worked for me. Good luck.
 
Joe Mc said:
As far as replacing the bleeder screws you should be able to find them in one of those "Help" sections at the local Pep Boys, Auto Zone etc.

Better yet, put in a set of Speed Bleeders. Makes bleeding an easy, one-man job. Guaranteed to save marriages... ;)
 
I put in reman'd calipers, rotors, pads, and new brake hoses back in the summer. Brakes work very well now, no more pulsing etc even after 15k miles. I think the hoses really did the trick, tho the drivers side hose was $$$. Also bled out all old fluid and replaced with synth dot4.



I wouldnt try to tap em out, the piston is prolly scored anyways.



Have you ever had the rotors (hubs) off? It can be quite a PITA if they havent been off in a while, even if you have a porto-power to push the bolts.



good luck



-j
 
I have never had them off, I know someone has, it had new rotors 3 or 4 years ago. Yea I am not looking forward to getting the bearing assemblies out.
 
The way to get the bleeders out every time if they are rusted in is to tap the side of the caliper next to the bleeder. You want to VERY SLIGHTLY distort the casting with the hammer, just enough to crack the rust loose. This is what the pros do.
 
In doing this whole brake project, is there anything I can do for the rear to improve braking? I know you can put chevy 1 ton wheel cylinders on a 2500 but are these bigger than the Dodge 1 tons?
 
I had a 96 that had a TSB for the rear brakes. Went through two sets of front rotors in 40K miles before Dodge figured out they hadn't balanced the braking between front and rear. The TSB put bigger pistons, heavier shoes, and beefed up drums on the rear and adjusted the system to give the rears a higher proportion (like 40%, if memory serves) of the braking load.
 
Getting the most out of your front brakes

Be sure to keep the caliper pins well lubed!

The pins don't have any protection from dirt and grime.

When they get gummed up they cause the calipers to stick and drag.

Lube them every 1000 miles and you will be amazed at how long your brakes will last!



Be sure to check out my readers rig pics here on the TDR

I have some good tips and tricks in there.



SFB
 
DMannon said:
I had a 96 that had a TSB for the rear brakes. Went through two sets of front rotors in 40K miles before Dodge figured out they hadn't balanced the braking between front and rear. The TSB put bigger pistons, heavier shoes, and beefed up drums on the rear and adjusted the system to give the rears a higher proportion (like 40%, if memory serves) of the braking load.



Where can this TSB be found? Is the TSB simply replacing the 3/4 ton hardware, shoes and drums with 1 ton stuff? I emailed EGR brakes about the weak rear drums on my '95 and asked about using their wheel cylinders and hardware to help improve things. They said using their larger wheel cylinders as well as a larger MASTER cylinder they offer really helps. I can't afford or justify the cost of the EGR rear disk brake conversion. I will say there is a night and day difference between the brakes in my '02 and '95 trucks.
 
Try searching here:



http://dodgeram.info/tsb/index.html



I seem to remember that when they upgraded my rears on the 96, they did something to the master cylinder; I remember there was a recall on it. I forget what exactly they did... the ex got the truck and my 50-year-old mind doesn't function on all 6 cylinders on Saturday mornings... :rolleyes:



As for the diff between your 95 and 02, two words: rear discs.
 
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