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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front End Rebuild Project w/Questions

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission egt gauges

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) no codes??

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In a previous posting I asked for some leveling kit advice but have now abandoned that plan for a while. The other day I had my wife start the truck while I climbed underneath. When she moved the wheel back and forth I was shocked! The track bar was moving up and down in the Luke's Link, three of the four tie rods had significant slop, and the output shaft on the steering gear had a little slop. There was no point in leveling the front until that stuff was fixed. One long wheelbase hundred dollar bill later I had a new DSS, 4 new Bilsteins 5100's (shocks were shot too), new Luke's Link track bar bushings, and all the Moog steering linkage parts to upgrade to the 98-99 HD T-steering. The shocks and DSS are in and a noticeable amount of slop in the steering is gone. Next up is the steering linkage and track bar maintenance.



Questions:

1. Should the threads of the tie rods be greased or anti-seized before being threaded into the adjsuting sleeves?



2. If I take the track bar completely off to shim up the Luke's Link and install the new bushings should I be concerned about getting it all lined back up right or should it go back together just like it came apart.



3. How do I know how many shims to put in the Luke's Link?



4. While I was underneath the truck I noticed the passenger side front axle universal joint grease seal has a chunk missing out of it exposing the needle bearings. The universal joint does not appear to be able to be separated from the axle shaft itself. Is this going to be expensive to fix? I think I know the answer but if you know different, I'll be happier than I am now.



Info Note:

Pay close attention to the instructions for the DSS. When it says support the sway bar while you remove the bolts, it MEANS hold the sway bar while you remove the bolts. Mine stuck to the frame just long enough for me to set the impact down and meet it with the corner of my left eyebrow as gravity took its toll on the very heavy sway bar. One black eye later:{... . DSS works good.
 
1. Lube with a light weight oil.

2. Not quite sure what you mean but, track bar should install - reverse of removal.

3. If you still have the Luke's link instructions, look there. There is a measurement spec IIRC.

4. Some labour involved to change that u-joint. Removal of the hub can be a pain, need to clean the axle tube so the axle seal is not damaged upon re-install of axle.
 
Questions:

1. Should the threads of the tie rods be greased or anti-seized before being threaded into the adjsuting sleeves?

... .



Use the best and most durable anti-seize compound you can use on the sleeves and the rods; make sure both are well coated (not thick, just thorough). Your alignment man will thank you. Mine took to using a 10' cheater and a Stillson wrench to turn the toe adjustor; it was that bad. I've taken to using a copper-based anti-seize for durned near everything.
 
You will be lucky if shimming the luke's link works on the track bar. After a few shimmings and new teflon bushings, mine would no longer hold the bar tight. I went with the BD trackbar kit. Other companies make it too. I am so happy with it. One of my best upgrades. I still have lukes links on all of my other links, except the steering arm (it wouldn't clear the 3rd gen track bar adapter). If the track bar doesn't line exactly up, have someone saw on the steering wheel a little.



Anti-seize is not a bad idea. I like moly brake parts lube because it stays and I have a tub of it.



Changing the u-joint is not expensive or complicated. Only time consuming. A shop may charge $250 a side. I would just purchas spicer U-joints: SPL55-4x (greasable) or SPL55-3x (non-greasable) for around $50. 00 each. They are cold forged and, to my understanding, all other spicer joints are considered obsolete. I prefer servicable joints, but not all will agree.
 
Thanks for the good advice. I decided to go with Permatex anti-sieze on the adjusting sleeves. I took the track bar down to re-bush it and adjsut the Luke's Link. I called to ask its creator how many shims. He said two if it's moving a lot. Two it got. The elastomer spring was pretty ate up (I presume from being soaked with grease) but it's back together with a new o-ring. I had my son rock the truck back in forth to get it all in place. While I had the steering linkage off I decided to service the front axle. The synthetic that was in there was in excellent condition but I'll chalk it up to preventive maintenance. It was well past due in miles. I'm waiting for the silicone to cure on the cover before I finish torquing it down. After a refill I'll put the new steering linkage up. I do see a potential problem though. The wheels I'm planning on putting on are 2. 5 inches wider than stock. I'm going to a 17 inch diameter but I'm a little concerned about the outer tie rods interfering with the wheels. Has anyone heard of that happening?



Crud... I just remembered I forgot to put the indentification plate back on the differential cover. Would it hurt to take those two bolts out after it cures just long enough to get the plate back on but before I put the fluid in?
 
I had no problem with clearence and I have Luke's Links on my tie rods. If you call Luke's Links up, they will send you the teflon bushing free of charge. They have excellent customer service.
 
I ordered the wheel/tire combo from tire rack today. THey have a distribution center here in town so no shipping charges. I got the Ultra Grinder in a 17x9 with 285/70-17 BFG A/T's (Load Range E). I almost went with a commercial Wrangler Duratrac but I read the reviews and all the heavy truck owners (250 and up) had a lot of issues with sidewall stability and the feel of driving on marbles on pavement. Off-road reviews were pretty good. Seems like most people like the BFG's. THis will be my third set but the first set on this truck. It's a $900 mistake if I'm wrong. I pick up the tires in the morning and head straight to the alignment shop.
 
You can never go wrong with a BFG of any sort. I'm on my 4th or 5th set. I just wish their prices would go down. FAT CHANCE!!!
 
Thanks! Everything is all wrapped up. As soon as I download the pictures I'll post the results. The new wheels and tires turned out good too. The steering wheel is a few degrees off but the two ends are butted up in the sleeve. It only lacked about a turn to be perfect. The alignment guy said it shoud add some stability to the drag link having the ends touching. I guess one or both of the rods were a touch long. The one thing I lack is the clamp that goes on the axle for the steering dampner. I imagine Dodge will get my money for that.
 
Is this the Death Wobble?

I need to reopen this discussion. The front end has been driving great since I finished it until the other day. Keep in mind that I have yet to get the bracket fabricated to put the steering damper back on. I crossed some railroad tracks at about 50 mph and the front end shook so violently that I thought it might come apart. I stepped on the brakes and it stopped but it was very interesting for a few seconds. It happened again Saturday on another bump. I presume this to be the dreaded Death Wobble. The question is, what's next? Track bar? Or will the steering damper fix it?
 
Have you ever replaced the suspension bushings? They're good for barely 100K miles. Are your tires properly inflated?
 
I'll double check the tires but they've only been on a month so they should be good. Control arm bushings are on the list to do if/when I replace the track bar with the 2003 setup.
 
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