front end u joints

[brad k]

at 68,000 i have replaced every u joint on my '06 2500, and the rear driveline u joint twice as it was replaced under warranty at 25,000. the last two that need done are squeaking, the ones out by the front wheels. do i need to remove the whole spindle and replace the ball joints a tie rod ends, or is it like the older danas that after you remove the bearing assembly the hole is big enough for the axles and yokes to slip through? dodge needs to change their u joint or driveline supplier because they suck

 

[brods]

Once you remove the unit bearing the axle yokes will fit through the hole. Getting the unit bearing out may be an issue depending on how rusted in it is. Do a search on unit bearing and you'll see quite a few have had a tough time getting them out.

 

[WoodChuck]

Yes it is like the 2nd Gen Dana, remove the wheel unit bearing and the axle shaft comes out.

 

[SGevers]

When I had my joints pressed in at a shop yesterday they told me the 2nd and 3rd generation axles are a little different and the joint is a different size just FYI.

 

[JBallou]

Make sure that greasable ones are put in there, should last longer with them.

 

[Cummins Cowboy]

at 68,000 i have replaced every u joint on my '06 2500, and the rear driveline u joint twice as it was replaced under warranty at 25,000. the last two that need done are squeaking, the ones out by the front wheels. do i need to remove the whole spindle and replace the ball joints a tie rod ends, or is it like the older danas that after you remove the bearing assembly the hole is big enough for the axles and yokes to slip through? dodge needs to change their u joint or driveline supplier because they suck

man you got that right, I complained about the joints sucking and everyone around here acts like I am crazy, the fact is the u joints and ball joints flat out suck!!!!!! all my u joints were done by 60k carrier bearing and ball joints too, that is ridiculous those all should be 100k parts, it was also very expensive to do, I think '06 was dodge's biggest year with these truck, however I am afraid to buy another one because I will have to replace all this stuff over again and the mileage will be aweful. dodge has given me no reason to buy a new one, maybe thats why sales are so terrible

 

[WoodChuck]

man you got that right, I complained about the joints sucking and everyone around here acts like I am crazy, the fact is the u joints and ball joints flat out suck!!!!!! all my u joints were done by 60k carrier bearing and ball joints too, that is ridiculous those all should be 100k parts, it was also very expensive to do, I think '06 was dodge's biggest year with these truck, however I am afraid to buy another one because I will have to replace all this stuff over again and the mileage will be aweful. dodge has given me no reason to buy a new one, maybe thats why sales are so terrible

I've got 163k miles on all OE U-joints, the ball joints only recently got replaced.

As long as the Dodge has a Cummins I've got a reason to buy one.

 

[brad k]

well after 4 hours of swearing and beating, got the bearings out. this job would be really easy if it weren't for the bearings. axles slid right out. had to use a air hammer and lireally beat the bearings out of the hub. that otc puller some have listed on here is a joke, all it does is pull the bearing in half, and leave the inner bearing and housing in the hub. get you a good air hammer, and a big compressor and gallon of penetrationg oil,soak and hammer, soak and hammer. one took two hours of this, the other about an hour. don't give up, they will come out

 

[Zshaw]

Carli suspension.com has great ball joints. My '03s were all bad by 30k. Make sure all new parts have grease zerks!

 

[Kry226]

I just did all four ball joints and both u-joints on Saturday. Power Steering is your friend... but I broke or bent a lot of 1/2" drive extensions. Precision 464s went back into the yokes.

 

[Slow Six]

As Kry226 said, the power steering method is the way to go. Popped both mine out the first time no problem. I anti seized everything and the second and third times were even easier with no damage what so ever to the bearings.

 

[CToney]

I just changed over to the Free Spin from Dynatrac and since I had changed one front u joint I could check on wear. I could see some wear and it was only in for 3,000 miles. It was the greaseable type. I hope to not have to do u joints for a while and the bearings should be good for a couple hundered thousand miles. I just used a normal gear puller, wd 40 and a chisel to remove my bearings. Just anti seize before reistallation.

 

[TStrite]

What is this power steering method you talk about? I just got an 05 with 66k on it. The right u joint was out and I know what you all mean about beating on it for 4 hours. I am afraid its gonna need ball joints to get past inspection.

 

[Slow Six]

If you do a search on here there should be some excellent info on this method. It has been a while and I have CRS (can't remember s**t) but I'll try and recall the method. Remove brake rotors etc. Loosen the four bolts that hold the hub assembly to axle tube. Put a socket and extension on one of the bolts and brace it against the axle tube. Start engine, turn steering wheel and the force of the steering should pop the assembly out. CAUTION: keep fingers clear of pinch points. Then remove the axle with bearing assembly all intact. It is a bit cumbersome to handle it all in one piece but is quick and simple plus the bearing is not damaged.

 

[hcole]

Slow Six, that is a good description of using the power steering to get the bearings out. I tried a puller on my first wheel and beat on it for an hour. Then I decided to try the power steering socket and extension method and they immediately broke loose and came on out. That was a life saver! I would only add this to your description. Remember to go from one front bolt to a back bolt and let the steering push them out a little at a time. You'll feel it in the steering wheel when it loosens every time.

 

[RBridenbaugh]

Snap-on makes a special tool for this DHP1 that they started selling, if you don't want to stack sockets or bend wobble extensions. They had a new products PDF for this but I can't find its URL, so I cut and pasted it below. Used as "Slow Six" described. Step 1 should say "... over loosened hub bolt ... "



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[JApol]

here is the part on the snap-on site. In typical snap-on fashion they are right proud of this part



DHP1, Adaptor, Removal, Wheel Hub, Dodge